Scale-Master

I read they were actually rubber seals used in the aerospace industry that were "re-purposed". Anyone know if that is true?

I use a flat chisel type paint brush, about ¼ inch wide by 3/8 of an inch long, and a #2 round brush. Both are relegated to decal use only. Never been used for paint and they have lasted well, one has been is service for about 30 years, the other well over 10. Q-tips are also great tools for decaling. Keep the surface wet while positioning, and paper towels work well too.

Cool stuff but, IMHO an air cooled low compression airplane engine from the 1920’s being reduced to 1/12 Semi-scale more than ¾ of a century later is a far cry from an accurate Scale running car engine in any scale including 1/12… Heck, I’d be satisfied with a running FE diesel if it looked like a decent replica of a small block Chevy. See, I don’t ask for much… But it is good to hear you made a decision on what color YOU want to paint YOUR model Bobby.

I used to have a shrink ray gun, now where did I leave it? I'll show you all how to do it... Oh wait, it only goes to 1/12.

One more point should be offered. You cannot scale atmosphere, it is a constant. Using a 400 C.I. Small Block Chevy as the subject (Largest stock displacement). It can only be scaled down to 1/5 scale before it is outside the range of functionality due to atmosphere restraints. And even then, many concessions must be made to allow it to run while looking like a true scale small block. That is not to say an unscale 1/25ish version could not be made, but I don’t think it has been yet…

In all seriousness, I really would like to see what has been described, (running 1/25 scale engine), but am very doubtful it exists. I know Mark Gustavson has many times discussed the possibilities and hurdles associated with replicating a fully functioning 1/25 scale model automobile. I believe it is a goal of his to try to come as close and accurate as possible to a genuine miniaturized working car. Since he is the founder of the GSL, and Augie Hiscano was a highly revered and frequent GSL participant, I find it hard to believe if he succeeded in this venture, Mr. Gustavson would not have showcased such an incredible feat bringing the modeling community one step closer to the realization of the dream of a fully functioning 1/25 scale car. After all, is not an operating engine in small scale the most difficult part of such a project? But please correct me if I am wrong Bobby. Maybe you can pacify Jeff with such proof? Let us know what you find out. Regarding Clays comment about the scratch-built plastic engine, yes it exists, but alas, it is only a static model like most scale models of engines… It does not run as Bobby described, and I think it was larger than 1/25?

Well, I think you should build it for yourself and that includes choosing the color you will be looking at more than anyone else. They are both nice colors. But if I said paint it red (or blue) and you really wanted tangerine, what color would you paint it? I really would paint it purpley-blue, and even if someone said paint it yellow, I would still paint it my way... Gotta be true and live by my signature… What did you find out about the "running 1/25 scale engine"?

Your detailing has brought it to life. I built one of those too, except for the sink marks in the body it was a blast to build. I took the easy way on mine, looks like you invested a bit more, nice work.

Bobby, I have to say Jeff has made some pertinent and valid points here about that "running 1/25 scale engine". Augie was pretty much a regular attendee at the GSL's for sometime, (that is where I met him). And he took Best Of Show multiple times. I am sure I would have known of this engine as we mostly discussed machining model engine parts in our conversations, and a running engine would most likely have eclipsed the awesome static work I know he did. Even putting a tiny electric motor in/under an engine that scale and making it operate would be unbelievable. And if you are referring to the radial airplane engine about the size of a dime? I saw that in person and it was not motorized. Was there another one? I'd like to see that. I'm sure Bob would be aware of an operating 1/25th scale internal combustion or motorized or steam engine made by Augie, please ask him. It would very cool if it were true though...

My real name is in my last post, and every other one I have made here. It has been couple/few years since I spoke to him. See my name at the bottom of this post?

Hey Bobby, when you talk to Bob K. tell him hi from me. Been a while since I spoke with him, is he still doing the furniture thing?

Not to steal Tom’s thunder, but the windshield frame is included on the chrome shot. Looking good Tom.

Thanks for the info. But I have to ask for clarification about your comment of Augie (Hiscano) building a running 1/25 scale small block Chevy? I knew Augie, and I don’t recall anything like that, granted he was a very humble man, but I am shocked that I did not know about a running 1/25 scale small block Chevy. That would be an incredible feat. Please clarify. Thanks.

I think using brass is a good way to go. It provides strength and a solid base to build to. Especially after opening the panels, a rigid stable brass frame can really pay off in the end. Tell me about the radiator, the pic is a little blurry but I can see through it. Not trying to start up anything, but I think the reason an issue was made about scratch-building is due to the revered level of skill it takes to scratch-build well. Throwing the term around can be interpreted as an insult to those who do actual scratch-building, and there is a definition for scratch-building, not subject to such loose interpretations in my opinion.

For some reason I end up keeping quite a few, but only because they are "needed" to hold things. I do try to keep and file all instructions. Of course I keep the decals and any useable left over parts.

Being a long term 1/43 builder, this strikes a chord with me. Not much American Muscle in 1/43rd compared to the subjects available. Looks better than many can do in 1/25 scale. Clean job!

Yes, but this isn't one of them. And it does not match the Z/28.

Needed a quick and simple build to relax with. First one of these I have built. Fun little kit. Wanted something loud. Custom mix violet Dupont Chromabase with Tamiya Fluorescent Red over Tamiya Yellow and some solid red and yellow stripes. Loud enough now?

My name is Betelgeuse-Betelgeuse-Betelgeuse and I like dioramas.

“This is a Miltary owned color and still have the rights to it, The do not even let you have the color code or even the PPG Store here could have the code.†You should have checked the Federal Standard guide (F.S.) for that “military colorâ€. All “military†colors are assigned an F.S. number and the book is readily available to civilians, as it is in the public domain since the military is funded by our tax dollars… Just ask someone who builds airplane models. Testors may even have the color in their military line of paints.

Mr. Barrow is correct. Alclad works for me and is priced more acceptably.

I find it interesting the one person is offering firsthand experience and sharing his method and results, and another is trying to justify his methods as being the better way by bolstering his claims of experience with second hand knowledge he got from friends and acquaintances. Just a footnote, I have been employed as a “real†automotive painter as well as a model painter. Doing is way more conducive to learning than talking and telling what was heard from someone else. And it is Mark Taylor the one that can build the 24 hour wonders, not me. As for the Matrix, I use MSV-21. California has restrictions on what we can purchase…

If you were to show a quality finished part that you made of what you were trying to explain, it would go a lot further in the direction of any tutorial. Most builders want to learn tricks and tips to improve their models. Also do some comparisons of what others are doing to see if what you are offering is truly relevant and useful towards improving other’s builds. Keep up the enthusiasm and thanks for sharing.

I have used the solder with rosin (not resin) core. There is also acid core, it is different. One trick is to soak the lengths of solder you cut for your pipes in hot water; you will have to reheat the water a few times. Add hot water to the solder, don’t nuke it… The heat will soften the rosin, some will drip out. You can force more out with compressed air and thin wire, (depending on how long your pieces are…). Lacquer thinner or carb cleaner helps with the clean up.

It is my opinion that if you want to learn how to work with urethane's and have the least amount of headaches you should follow David's advice. The points he makes mirror the same experiences I have had, and I have seen his paint/finish work in person. "Dave's way" is one of the many right ways to paint. Just look at his results. Chas's comment amounts to bad mouthing a DuPont competitor's product, instead of accepting someone else has the ability to paint and is willing to properly teach others. Brand loyalty is one thing, ignorant snobbery is another. I know a lot of people who get great results with both PPG and DuPont products. I also use Matrix and PCL clears and DuPont Chroma colors. Snidely portraying a product that looks to be applied with better results (than the product you are using) by someone else is bad form and serves no purpose. Not finishing the paint after it is sprayed is often the difference between being complacent and accepting what was shot, (which is fine if you are happy) and really making a 100 Point finish. Remember, you have to build for yourself... Real car paints look like real car paints when properly applied to models, the only problem is they often look out of scale due to the way they lay down. Cutting and finishing them properly can bring them into scale. Some soft flowing cars can get away with comparatively thick but smooth uncut finishes. But what treatment do the best of the best real cars get after being painted? David's photos really don't do the paint quality justice. That green truck won best paint because it is flawless, I know, I was there. Seriously, no defects. Take a second to think about NO DEFECTS. Honestly, how many absolutely perfect paint jobs has anyone seen? It may look boring, but that just leaves less areas to hide any imperfections. And speaking of those photos, thanks for wearing pants in that last one David! Also follow Ed's advice about the respirators to avoid headaches. You can also add me to the list of lacquer thinner users...