Scale-Master

If you opt to use the BMF “before†painting method, I have found removing each layer of paint (or primer) from the foil after each coat makes for a better outcome. You can use a little thinner or compound, whichever is your preference, just be sure to get all the compound out of the crevices before applying your next coat of paint.

More progress on the tub and front suspension...

Mostly finished the cockpit/seat. Once it is installed into the monocoque, the rest of the interior parts will be installed.

I have used a few different brands. Sally Hansen was on sale at the 99 cent store and had some good colors so I have used more of it than other brands. Revlon is another I have used several times. Most are reducible with lacquer thinner, my personal preference. But test with a small amount first, some require acetone or they gel up into a snotty-globby-goop. You will know it within a minute if it is not compatible with lacquer thinner. Even if it thins with mineral spirits (enamels) lacquer thinner works better. I start by reducing 100%; that is equal parts paint and thinner. Then adjust with more thinner as needed. Sometimes as much as another 50% more thinner. Priming helps with adhesion since I spray it a bit on the dry side to lessen the chance of it attacking the substrate. I always clear over it; urethanes work well, as do enamels. Lacquer clears can be too hot for some brands. Let it dry for several days before clearing. Some nail polishes shrink and do funky things before they fully cure. They all dry fast, but the added reducers change the cure times. They also seem to dry from the outside in. So don’t be fooled by it being dry to the touch. Be very careful when masking on top of it, it does not adhere as well as most “regular†model paints and can peel off easier than expected, especially when painted on raw plastic or metal.

It’s very tough to pull off customizing an iconic custom and keeping the soul of the original alive. I think you succeeded. I also favor the more natural “raw†metal treatments over the chrome. It has a bit more attitude now…

More work to show on the McLaren... Wow, five months since I posted anything on this? Sure is nice to get some building accomplished on it... The chassis pan is pretty much done. Opted to go with paint instead of decals... I used the Tamiya kit provided foil for the internal heat shield. I also painted most of the cockpit exterior, but will accent it with some C/F decals. Seat is ready for the harnesses...

I read they were actually rubber seals used in the aerospace industry that were "re-purposed". Anyone know if that is true?

I use a flat chisel type paint brush, about ¼ inch wide by 3/8 of an inch long, and a #2 round brush. Both are relegated to decal use only. Never been used for paint and they have lasted well, one has been is service for about 30 years, the other well over 10. Q-tips are also great tools for decaling. Keep the surface wet while positioning, and paper towels work well too.

Cool stuff but, IMHO an air cooled low compression airplane engine from the 1920’s being reduced to 1/12 Semi-scale more than ¾ of a century later is a far cry from an accurate Scale running car engine in any scale including 1/12… Heck, I’d be satisfied with a running FE diesel if it looked like a decent replica of a small block Chevy. See, I don’t ask for much… But it is good to hear you made a decision on what color YOU want to paint YOUR model Bobby.

I used to have a shrink ray gun, now where did I leave it? I'll show you all how to do it... Oh wait, it only goes to 1/12.

One more point should be offered. You cannot scale atmosphere, it is a constant. Using a 400 C.I. Small Block Chevy as the subject (Largest stock displacement). It can only be scaled down to 1/5 scale before it is outside the range of functionality due to atmosphere restraints. And even then, many concessions must be made to allow it to run while looking like a true scale small block. That is not to say an unscale 1/25ish version could not be made, but I don’t think it has been yet…

In all seriousness, I really would like to see what has been described, (running 1/25 scale engine), but am very doubtful it exists. I know Mark Gustavson has many times discussed the possibilities and hurdles associated with replicating a fully functioning 1/25 scale model automobile. I believe it is a goal of his to try to come as close and accurate as possible to a genuine miniaturized working car. Since he is the founder of the GSL, and Augie Hiscano was a highly revered and frequent GSL participant, I find it hard to believe if he succeeded in this venture, Mr. Gustavson would not have showcased such an incredible feat bringing the modeling community one step closer to the realization of the dream of a fully functioning 1/25 scale car. After all, is not an operating engine in small scale the most difficult part of such a project? But please correct me if I am wrong Bobby. Maybe you can pacify Jeff with such proof? Let us know what you find out. Regarding Clays comment about the scratch-built plastic engine, yes it exists, but alas, it is only a static model like most scale models of engines… It does not run as Bobby described, and I think it was larger than 1/25?

Well, I think you should build it for yourself and that includes choosing the color you will be looking at more than anyone else. They are both nice colors. But if I said paint it red (or blue) and you really wanted tangerine, what color would you paint it? I really would paint it purpley-blue, and even if someone said paint it yellow, I would still paint it my way... Gotta be true and live by my signature… What did you find out about the "running 1/25 scale engine"?

Your detailing has brought it to life. I built one of those too, except for the sink marks in the body it was a blast to build. I took the easy way on mine, looks like you invested a bit more, nice work.

Bobby, I have to say Jeff has made some pertinent and valid points here about that "running 1/25 scale engine". Augie was pretty much a regular attendee at the GSL's for sometime, (that is where I met him). And he took Best Of Show multiple times. I am sure I would have known of this engine as we mostly discussed machining model engine parts in our conversations, and a running engine would most likely have eclipsed the awesome static work I know he did. Even putting a tiny electric motor in/under an engine that scale and making it operate would be unbelievable. And if you are referring to the radial airplane engine about the size of a dime? I saw that in person and it was not motorized. Was there another one? I'd like to see that. I'm sure Bob would be aware of an operating 1/25th scale internal combustion or motorized or steam engine made by Augie, please ask him. It would very cool if it were true though...

My real name is in my last post, and every other one I have made here. It has been couple/few years since I spoke to him. See my name at the bottom of this post?

Hey Bobby, when you talk to Bob K. tell him hi from me. Been a while since I spoke with him, is he still doing the furniture thing?

Not to steal Tom’s thunder, but the windshield frame is included on the chrome shot. Looking good Tom.

Thanks for the info. But I have to ask for clarification about your comment of Augie (Hiscano) building a running 1/25 scale small block Chevy? I knew Augie, and I don’t recall anything like that, granted he was a very humble man, but I am shocked that I did not know about a running 1/25 scale small block Chevy. That would be an incredible feat. Please clarify. Thanks.

I think using brass is a good way to go. It provides strength and a solid base to build to. Especially after opening the panels, a rigid stable brass frame can really pay off in the end. Tell me about the radiator, the pic is a little blurry but I can see through it. Not trying to start up anything, but I think the reason an issue was made about scratch-building is due to the revered level of skill it takes to scratch-build well. Throwing the term around can be interpreted as an insult to those who do actual scratch-building, and there is a definition for scratch-building, not subject to such loose interpretations in my opinion.

For some reason I end up keeping quite a few, but only because they are "needed" to hold things. I do try to keep and file all instructions. Of course I keep the decals and any useable left over parts.

Being a long term 1/43 builder, this strikes a chord with me. Not much American Muscle in 1/43rd compared to the subjects available. Looks better than many can do in 1/25 scale. Clean job!

Yes, but this isn't one of them. And it does not match the Z/28.

Needed a quick and simple build to relax with. First one of these I have built. Fun little kit. Wanted something loud. Custom mix violet Dupont Chromabase with Tamiya Fluorescent Red over Tamiya Yellow and some solid red and yellow stripes. Loud enough now?

My name is Betelgeuse-Betelgeuse-Betelgeuse and I like dioramas.