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Everything posted by Scale-Master
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Thanks, yes, it is an old Starter 1/43rd. Age is probably the cause of the decals cracking.
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It’s time for another Super 7... This time in 1/24th using the perennial Tamiya Lotus kit. The first task is to convert it from right hand drive to left hand drive. Here are pictures of the stock kit body: The foot well was excised from the right side and the side wall of it was removed using a PE saw. A wedge was cut from the new body side part of the foot well and cemented to the inboard compensate for the angle from when it was on the right side. The side was cemented back on and the foot well was filed true and is ready for installation…
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The orange decals cracked as they were being applied, and continued to crack as they dried. Fortunately, it was an easy color to match...
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Looks like you are off to a great start.
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Thanks guys, I've always thought it was boringly ugly. I understand and appreciate the cars' acheivement, but the scheme does not do it for me, maybe a Gulf scheme...?
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Decals were a real bear on this one. Cracked like dry desert river bed. Found a good match for the fluorescent red/orange, but I had to mix the the blues to touch it all up.
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Got some clear on it over the weekend... Once it is cured it is on to final assembly...
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Looking really cool Scott!
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No, sorry, they are already applied to the model: I used Tamiya TS-36 Fluorescent Red. Several coats built up lightly over about a week. The last coat was allowed to dry overnight and I applied my decals.
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No worries Len, it's not like the Scale-Master logo is on every sheet I draw... Now, back to the building! The basic suspension was assembled and aligned to the body and chassis, this is very important to do prior to applying the color coats to the body. Quite a bit of adjusting and massaging required on mine, especially for the front suspension. (Often par for the course on these older white metal kits.) No tire decals were provided in the kit so I made a set. Here they are applied to the tires and finished wheels before getting a shot of Dullcote.
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Thanks guys. I saw and read plenty about Jairus's slot car while I was researching the real car. Making it 4WD was pretty cool Jairus. I guess a lot of people don't realize my screen name of Scale-Master is from my trademarked decal company name...? IndyCals decals do look nice, and the prices are very reasonable, but The lettering for "Oil Treatment Special" does not match the real car...
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This has always been a favorite car of mine. This is the 1/43rd scale SMTS white metal kit. Here is the body after a mild clean up (nice casting overall) and some scribing of the (already somewhat heavy) panel lines disturbed by that clean up. Also the rivet dimples were drilled to a uniform depth. Tamiya Fine White Primer for the undercoat of the Day-Glo Red. All the little body parts have been cleaned up and dry fitted before the final application of the primer. The decals were very yellowed and I thought I should replace the main white elements (like the numbers) with new decals. Upon further inspection I noticed how crude the artwork was. It may be an older kit, but I expected better. So I set about drawing new art and printing a set of replacement decals. Research showed a few missing sponsor decals too, so I added what I could determine was needed…
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I concur 100%.
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Thanks. $1.00 closeout Wal-Mart toy. 1/87th scale.
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Made all the decals and adjusted the ride height... Yes, it is 1/87 scale. And has a full interior.
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Why did it take four years?
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Ferrari Enzo - Tamiya - 1/24
Scale-Master replied to The Creative Explorer's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I don't respond to more than 2% of the posts I read, that doesn't mean I don't enjoy them or get information from them. Often I get very few responses to my posts, it's part of the way it is. Your approach to this model is commendable and will likely provide you with more building satisfaction no matter how the model comes out. So far it looks quite good, the only thing that seems out of place are the screws you added to the side panel on the gearbox. Imagine them scaled up and the tool that would be needed on them. Flathead screws of the giant variety are not usually seen on Ferrari's. Your modification to the intake part you will be able to see was clever too. I say keep sharing... -
Sensory overload
Scale-Master replied to Pete J.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
As long as "we" don't look like your avatar... -
Sensory overload
Scale-Master replied to Pete J.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Only one problem... While it is always a pleasure to hang out with those listed, I did not attend that convention, or that Keckster BBQ. Must have been a great party though if anyone remembers me being there... -
I did a little of both, decanted some and airbrushed the tight and more delicate areas while utilizing the can for the larger parts and final coats. And thanks everyone!
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You got me. Total fabrication, story and model, I thought... Makes me wonder if there was maybe something like it now with some of the responses... All in good fun...
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Fed-Ex and UPS Merger
Scale-Master replied to Danno's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
You got your UPS in my FedEx... -
You didn't mention what kind of paint it is, but if it is long time cured, no matter what it is, you should be able to safely use the cheaper 70% rubbing alcohol to soften the BMF adhesive. That with the aforementioned tape trick should help. And as for the residual adhesive, back to the same alcohol...
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CA Glue Dying Out
Scale-Master replied to Evil Appetite's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
New unopened bottles go from the store to the fridge at my house, unless I need it right away... Wait for it to become room temp before opening the bottle. Moisture is the enemy. If you live in a humid area the life of a bottle can be compromised. If you want to store an opened bottle in the fridge, seal it in a zip-lock bag first. Again, let it acclimate to the ambient temp before opening the bag. -
The Turbo-Jet Z/28’s name was derived from the label applied to cars powered by Chevrolet’s Big Block engine and a jet aircraft theme was also incorporated. The inclusion of Z/28 moniker was purely due to the meteoric rise and current popularity, including new race heritage of that option package. One of GM’s more bizarre creations, (but then consider the era), this Camaro based car included such oddities as a faux jet turbine intake in the grille and an afterburner exhaust between the taillights. Since it appeared to have standard dual exhausts, it is highly doubtful it did anything functional, not even as cool as the Batmobile (which it was arguably inspired by) in that regard…. Even the tail lights looked cheap being only the transparent red parts of the RS units with no chrome trim or even provision for back up lights. While it appears to be made from a second generation Camaro at first glance, in fact it was built from a base model 1969 Camaro convertible. If you compare the “sheet metal parts†that look like a ‘70 Camaro with an actual one, you’ll see the shape and proportions are different even though the styling is similar in a somewhat warped fashion. Even the headlights are not set into the bezels as a ’70 would be. In reality, it had a fiberglass body except for the stock ’69 Camaro deck lid. The front clip is a seamless one piece unit. It has been suggested this was made by using an early F-body mock up version, or a fiberglass lift of a clay exercise intended to be an attempt at the second generation Camaro. The dash is also styled similarly to the second generation Camaro, possibly to give a glimpse of things to come, or leftover from the styling studio. Furthermore, even though its name indicates that it had a Big Block (plus the Z/28s were all Small Block powered,) and the literature of the day claimed it did have an L88 427, most involved with the project say it was no real secret it was powered by an anemic 283 Small Block with a two barrel Rochester 2GV carb connected to a Saginaw 4 speed. It didn’t even have true dual exhaust, just a Y split off a common pipe. The interior is also aircraft themed to some degree. The floor panels were perforated ostensibly to allow water to drain out due to it being a true speedster indicating there was some forethought to actually using it? Who knows… The entire interior was finished with an industrial gray/black Zolatone epoxy finish. The door panels mirror the floor design and mimic aircraft dive brakes, (literature stated from a Dauntless dive bomber) and the steering wheel sports an aircraft yoke-like configuration. Plenty of large gauges also give a nod to the aero look. A T.V. monitor in the console said “futuristic style†for the day. The headrests were said to be inspired fighter planes, as was the anti-glare panel on the hood. The rear spoiler was made of rubber and looked just like a 1969 unit. The windshield was made of acrylic or poly carbonate, not known for sure, but subsequent scratching as it progressed through the show circuit makes it very unlikely it was glass. The car also had no seat belts and the only door actuators were buttons inside the silver door panels. The traditional floor high beam switch location was actually where the start/stop button for the engine was located and no keyed ignition was used. The Model: I reworked the front of a ’70 Camaro and grafted the top and rear of a ’69 together. The dash is from the ’70 kit with gauges made from brass. Interior details, as were the unique “Turbo-Jet†parts were machined from aluminum. The wheels centers are fronts from the Revell Landy Charger with machined outer rims and backing plates. Graphics were copied and printed as decals. Testors Panther Pink looked to be a close match to the “Turbo Ma-Jet-A†color originally used.