Scale-Master

Slow down. I mean build slower. Let things dry fully. As mentioned, test fit first. Really think about each step and how it will affect the rest of the building. Don't assume all the parts will fit correctly. If you adjust the fit of one part, others may be affected and need adjustment too. And don't rush while building, take the time to enjoy it and you may see more and see why these problems happen before they become problems. Learn to fix those mistakes. Ask how to do that if you don't know. Once you learn how to repair those boo-boo's, you will not make as many, guaranteed.

You sure you put an '82 Corvette rear on that? Looks more like a C4 (1984 or later)... How did you scratchbuild the fenders and keep them so symmetrical? Looks like a good start. BTW, This is an 82 Corvette rear. Notice the fairing around the plate, and how it protrudes at the beltline:

Not my usual modeling subject matter, certainly not my forte, but nonetheless I did enjoy working on it. It is all about painting... Predominately brush painted with a few of the larger pieces sprayed with the base color of course. Everything from lacquers & enamels to acrylics... The bad weather at the time prohibited my use of the normal "studio set up" I use...

A Peugeot design would be my first guess.

I'm thinking maybe "hypocrisy" is a more accurate word in this case?

Tires... Lots of time spent sanding the tread areas...

The chassis pan is now attached and the engine is almost done... I have also been working on the the body/paint. Photos of that when it is safe to handle...

Exhaust system is installed...

Thanks for the compliments! Airboxes/radiators and driveline are now attached to the monocoque...

The rear suspension/transmission is pretty much done...

Thanks! I am a big fan of out of the box building... Here’s some engine shots… The kit comes with metal prop rod for the hood. I’d rather it have come with a separate engine, but once it is all done it looks pretty good even though it is molded into the body..

Finished! It is a very good fitting kit. Time spent on detail painting brings what looks like bland molded in detail at first glance to quite believable as a more than just curbside model. If you like the subject matter, you will probably enjoy building this kit too. Here is the WIP thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37866

I've used it over a bright red base and made a vibrant red metallic. Not all Tamiya mica's dry as semi gloss. But if you plan to polish any of the mica or metallic's, a clear coat is very good advice...

Thanks! I used Testors Black Chrome Trim straight from the bottle and toned with Gunship Gray for the semi flat black and gray, the dead flat black is Tamiya Flat Back acrylic. The windows and headlights are mounted to the body, all fitting very well… The side rearview mirrors are two tone, I painted the black by hand and found it easiest to leave them on the sprue until they are ready to mount to the body…[ IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Scale-Master/NissanGTR/DSC09297.jpg They too come with Mylar inserts for the mirror faces…

The center post of the rear wing is attached… And since it was pre-fitted is a breeze to install to the body…

Thanks! The patina on the exhaust was done with a wash of smoke and transparent yellow acrylics. The taillights are each made up of a clear, clear red and chrome piece. They fit very well together and into the body too. The kit comes with those nifty masks to allow crisp painting of the black areas. The rear view mirror comes with a Mylar piece that looks very convincing as a mirror.

The engine is “installed†and finished, simply by cementing the three parts that make up the induction system to the body. The kit provides a Mylar Nissan badge for the front of the plenum. The front fascia and headlight bezels fit very nicely to the body.

Window trim was painted by brush with Testors Black Chrome Trim. The surround that goes around the rear quarter windows was freehanded, but I took the easy path and masked the straighter door sections.

Ditto. Build for yourself, not someone else. That way you only have to please yourself, and after all, it is your model.

Thanks again. I recall an earlier discussion about the progression of some “On the Bench†builds and some dissatisfaction with ones that just faded away or moved along sporadically or just too slow. This thread should appeal to those who wished a quicker pace for other people’s builds. This puppy is flyin’ together! The hood is finished. The scoops are the same Gunmetal as will be used on the rest of the trim. The under side of the hood was left with unprepped primer and dry-applied unpolished red paint. The picture shows the orange peel as a bit more aggressive than it looks in person, maybe better lighting will help later… The hood blanket is molded in and just painted flat black. The front fascia grille area was masked and shot gunmetal… If you are planning to not use the front license plate, I would advise to put a couple small drops of CA in the back side of this part to shore up the holes that are used to locate the plate to the car and sand the outside part flush. Otherwise you will likely have two dimples visible in the center of that grill bar… The lower rocker/spoiler part was shot the next evening to make masking easier. The body also received the same trim treatment…

The interior is done…. The wheels are molded in two parts per rim. They are chrome plated and called out to be painted Smoke. Two coats, one light, let dry then one moderate. Decals for the center caps to be applied later…

Punched circles is a really good idea... Maybe for another project... Here is the dash coming together…

Installed the seats to the interior… The doors come with the chromed inserts and decals for the little safety lights, but the instructions indicated to paint the silver around the speakers. A very tedious task indeed. Paint a black base, then silver trim. Then spend a few days chasing the line round the speaker grilles with black and silver… It can be done… (Not saying I did it the best either.) Let the paint dry between touch ups to keep from making a metallic gray mess. Now I wonder how much it will be seen when the model is buttoned up…

Seats are called out for the black version to have red trim. It is not molded in. I thought it looked cool, and this is a red car, and my model… Using the molded seam line as guide, just paint outside the perimeter on both sides of the seam. I had to touch up both black and red as I progressed to get a good defined line. Then, when I was satisfied with the lines, I sanded the seams off the center and repainted the red. (Make sure the paint is dry before sanding of course…) Then a sprayed coat of clear blends all the hand painting together…

Interior bucket/pan, somewhat the same single piece set up needing a few shades of black and gray plus silver to bring up the molded in detail... (The shifter and hand brake are separate parts.)