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Scale-Master

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  1. Shouldn’t be too hard to make your own, yes… And you could just copy those… but they are neither accurate nor complete. Compare the license plate and the #130 numeral shape to mine… The “Little Bastard†art on the sticker is a resident font (Brush Script), not a match to the hand lettered art I replicated from photos of the real car. The Spyder badging (should replace Speedster, I did not put them on this mule) and the Nurburgring and coachmakers badges (I did put on this) are not on that sheet. And if you are going to strip and repaint, you will also need Porsche script and crest badging for the hood and deck lid... Oh yeah, you will have to change the shape and proportions of the red spears as they do not fit the Maisto 550 as drawn... (My client provided one of those sheets with the books and reference material...) Guess it only matters what you want… and it is "just a die-cast". Just build for yourself... Can't go wrong with that can you?
  2. A quick little rework of a diecast Porsche 550... Not 100% spot on, but just what the customer ordered... After: Before: After: Before:
  3. I acquired this kit from a friend partially painted & built. After unbuilding the parts and stripping the paint using oven cleaner, alcohol and a media blaster for some really stubborn paint, I built it pretty much straight out of the box. I did have to create a couple replacement decals too. Base color is TS-58 Light Pearl Blue. I used tinted Testors Arctic Blue for the few parts that were to match the darker blue decals. Didn't get an exact match, but it is not too bad... Pretty quick build all things considered, half of the time was spent decaling it though.
  4. You mention you "could machine a block"... So you have mill? Lathe? The K&S aluminum tubing is relatively soft. If you have a lathe you can turn a flaring tool from a wood dowel. Something that looks a bit like a stubbly sharpened pencil. You can even leave a flange on it to act as a depth guide for uniformity. Then wrap one round of tape around your aluminum stock and chuck it in the live chuck. Put the dowel/flaring tool in the tail stock and flare away... If you only have a mill, there is a little more set-up involved, but it can be done too.
  5. Looks similar to Alsa products...
  6. Wow Jimmy, it sure looks like you got a handle on the focus issues with your camera. And the truck looks pretty darn good too. I must admit I am a little biased towards that truck, I drew the artwork for those kit decals... and I'm a sucker for blue. Did you take some in-progress pictures as well as the "fresh out of the box" picture and the finshed shots? Care to share with us and show us how you did it...?
  7. Slow down. I mean build slower. Let things dry fully. As mentioned, test fit first. Really think about each step and how it will affect the rest of the building. Don't assume all the parts will fit correctly. If you adjust the fit of one part, others may be affected and need adjustment too. And don't rush while building, take the time to enjoy it and you may see more and see why these problems happen before they become problems. Learn to fix those mistakes. Ask how to do that if you don't know. Once you learn how to repair those boo-boo's, you will not make as many, guaranteed.
  8. You sure you put an '82 Corvette rear on that? Looks more like a C4 (1984 or later)... How did you scratchbuild the fenders and keep them so symmetrical? Looks like a good start. BTW, This is an 82 Corvette rear. Notice the fairing around the plate, and how it protrudes at the beltline:
  9. Not my usual modeling subject matter, certainly not my forte, but nonetheless I did enjoy working on it. It is all about painting... Predominately brush painted with a few of the larger pieces sprayed with the base color of course. Everything from lacquers & enamels to acrylics... The bad weather at the time prohibited my use of the normal "studio set up" I use...
  10. A Peugeot design would be my first guess.
  11. I'm thinking maybe "hypocrisy" is a more accurate word in this case?
  12. Tires... Lots of time spent sanding the tread areas...
  13. The chassis pan is now attached and the engine is almost done... I have also been working on the the body/paint. Photos of that when it is safe to handle...
  14. Exhaust system is installed...
  15. Thanks for the compliments! Airboxes/radiators and driveline are now attached to the monocoque...
  16. The rear suspension/transmission is pretty much done...
  17. Thanks! I am a big fan of out of the box building... Here’s some engine shots… The kit comes with metal prop rod for the hood. I’d rather it have come with a separate engine, but once it is all done it looks pretty good even though it is molded into the body..
  18. Finished! It is a very good fitting kit. Time spent on detail painting brings what looks like bland molded in detail at first glance to quite believable as a more than just curbside model. If you like the subject matter, you will probably enjoy building this kit too. Here is the WIP thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=37866
  19. I've used it over a bright red base and made a vibrant red metallic. Not all Tamiya mica's dry as semi gloss. But if you plan to polish any of the mica or metallic's, a clear coat is very good advice...
  20. Thanks! I used Testors Black Chrome Trim straight from the bottle and toned with Gunship Gray for the semi flat black and gray, the dead flat black is Tamiya Flat Back acrylic. The windows and headlights are mounted to the body, all fitting very well… The side rearview mirrors are two tone, I painted the black by hand and found it easiest to leave them on the sprue until they are ready to mount to the body…[ IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v92/Scale-Master/NissanGTR/DSC09297.jpg They too come with Mylar inserts for the mirror faces…
  21. The center post of the rear wing is attached… And since it was pre-fitted is a breeze to install to the body…
  22. Thanks! The patina on the exhaust was done with a wash of smoke and transparent yellow acrylics. The taillights are each made up of a clear, clear red and chrome piece. They fit very well together and into the body too. The kit comes with those nifty masks to allow crisp painting of the black areas. The rear view mirror comes with a Mylar piece that looks very convincing as a mirror.
  23. The engine is “installed†and finished, simply by cementing the three parts that make up the induction system to the body. The kit provides a Mylar Nissan badge for the front of the plenum. The front fascia and headlight bezels fit very nicely to the body.
  24. Window trim was painted by brush with Testors Black Chrome Trim. The surround that goes around the rear quarter windows was freehanded, but I took the easy path and masked the straighter door sections.
  25. Ditto. Build for yourself, not someone else. That way you only have to please yourself, and after all, it is your model.
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