Scale-Master

Thanks Ismael. No Sweeps, as we apply it, means if you have more than one entry in a given category, only the model we choose as your best entry will be eligible for an award. Even if you enter three models and they are the best three in one category that has say seven models, you'll only get the 1st place. We do encourage entrants to spread out their entries into as many acceptable categories as possible.

As I mentioned in the post, and just to be clear: NO, I DO NOT ENTER THE CONTEST, I just run it. Hope some of you can attend.

Costa Mesa Fairgrounds, Costa Mesa California. http://www.cruisinforacure.com/model_car_contest.htm Email me direct or post here if you would like any more info. And NO, I DO NOT ENTER THE CONTEST, I just run it. Here's some of what we are giving away as awards, plus a bunch of trophies and other goodies including subscriptions to Model Cars Magazine. Thanks Gregg!

Machined mostly of aluminum...

Alcohol will work, but if you use the regular "low octane" 35% rubbing alcohol, you should be able to remove the wax without disturbing the paint. Detergent and running water with a soft toothbrush to get into all the tight spots would help too...

The boots for the wires are machined aluminum with vinyl tubing. The bottom one is fully assembled and painted, the one above is the assembled parts. The rest of the parts are above them, the one different part is the boot for the coil. Almost finished distributor, ready for installation. Coil assembly, mounted and wired into the system. Other side view of mounted distributor. Still much to do in the engine compartment (and other places). The actual ignition wire is from an old remote controlled Countach model I had in the 70's. Saving the old stuff is not the problem, finding it when you want it is...

Been tinkering on and off with this for several months. My entry in a common kit contest using the '66 Chevelle Wagon for this Labor Day weekend. It gave it's roof to my '69 Magnum Concept. Pretty much and out of the box style build, except for the ramp and hacking/filling, (no wiring and stuff). Just good (no so clean) fun...

Made this a few years ago, still one of my favorites...

Go with the Sherline, you won't be disappointed.

Been female? What's "she" now? Scary...

Compared to my friends real car, the Italian is closer between those two, but the model looks better (in my opinion) in the Bright TS49 over medium light gray primer. While it is brighter, it looks right on the smaller model. Over white primer it looks good too, just really red!

Goes over the intake horn assembly, (shown partially inserted in the top picture). Mostly machined aluminum except for the threaded studs, cloth element and internal mesh. Most of the raw parts were posted with the air horns earlier. Custom decals too...

Nope, not for big rigs... Machined the horns, hardware and filter parts. The red rings are "plastic" snap on items to hold the debris screens on, actually machined from aluminum, (what else?). SMS HiDef C/F on the mount plate. Still working on the filter part of the air box... Thought I'd include the "big" ruler in a shot...

Actually it is a Caterham 7, but looks very much like a Lotus Seven. More encompassing pictures soon... Gordon is a beer. The real questions are, is it in the bottle, out of the bottle, or "filtered"? We have Gordon Biersch restaurants out here...

Wise words indeed...

Question from a newbee to machining: How did you make the radius in the transition from narrow to wide? Any special trick? No special trick. Of course use the regular "measure twice cut once" rule. (I usually measure more than twice...) You can cut your own tool to create the desired fillet or radius. Grind the radius into the tool and set it up in your holder to cut the angle and the inside radius at the same time. I hope that's clear... And Thank You!

And muffled too... More machined aluminum, and some wadding for the glass pack...

I have seen some of these cars when they were fresh, still smelled like wet paint, and they looked good. But months later when I saw them again and the paint and filler materials had cured, they looked sad. Shrinkage, orange peel, ghosting, waves, you name it, all the things that would get a model dismissed from a serious model contest had manifested themselves since the chemical products did not have a chance to cure in the short time the cars were built.

Injectors actually. 30 plus parts in the "rear" one (actually in the foreground & left) and not quite as many in the forward one (right). So far... The main throttle bodies are all that are used from the kit, (modified). The red & black switch is one of the actuator switches for the NOS system. The synchronizing adjustment screws have springs around them to keep them from moving on their own, they also have Phillips heads...

I'm from the era of American Graffiti...

Thanks guys. The first small gauge on the right is a vacuum gauge. The sweep is reversed from the other gauges. Not sure why Auto Meter does it that way, I have Sun vacuum gauges in my real cars and they work with the more traditional clockwise sweep. But I copied the real deals, so that's how it had to be. As for the toggle switches. I machined the hex and the recepticle out of aluminum, then I made the toggle and stuck it in the hole...

SMS HiDef C/F decal, clear coated and color sanded. The dash panel itself is a reworked kit part, not much of it left though. The rest is all scratchbuilt...

That's exactly where I did my "shopping"! Thanks... - Mark

Thanks guys. Yes, I do have to use reading glasses now, no microscope though. Average sized hands that stay the same size, tweezers are helpful. And that is a very high compliment indeed Daniel, thank you very much.

Here is the gauge set I made for the Super 7, in no particular order. Auto Meter Ultralite series. Everything is scratchbuilt. I created the gauge faces and the needles are parts, not decals... Here is a shot of one of the smaller ones and it's lens, (machined from 1/4 inch thick acrylic sheet): And the "Arm Nitrous" dash switch...