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Everything posted by Scale-Master
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Well, I don't breathe in the dust when I make it, but I don't wear a mask or gloves either. Most of debris from filing and drilling is not so fine as to become airborne. When I do sand I almost always wet sand, and that contains the dust very effectively. The smell has never bothered me. But then I love the smell of new tires too. This one is not too strong smelling. Starter and PM kits from several years ago are much more pungent.
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The body is painted. I used some old stock (25+ years) Testors enamel.
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The seat was MIA so I dug one out of my stash and modified it to match the drawing on the instructions. The seat belt hardware comes in the kit, I cut the belts out from tape. The roll cage looks a little rough partly due to the brittle nature of the white metal parts, and partly due to the tight fit inside the body. Fortunately when installed it looks OK and the windows/frames further limit how much can be seen once buttoned up.
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I was under the impression it was a recent kit Pete. But it looks like older technology in some areas. Looks like the front tires won’t be an issue since they are not stretched/stressed as much. The rears have been repaired. Not perfect, but once under the car I think they'll be fine.
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I think in this case it was two main factors. There was a clear line from where the tire material went 180 degrees around the mold and I suspect the material was not hot enough to fully meld. Plus the tires were a really tight fit with a good amount of stretching needed to get them over the rims.
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After I installed the BBS wheel centers and center nuts I set them aside. Unfortunately the rear tires split along the line where the material met when being molded and apparently did not bond well. I cemented them together with CA and will have to sand and paint the repairs. At this point I’m waiting to see if the front tires split too.
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Anyone have this problem?
Scale-Master replied to sjordan2's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I had someone contact me through this forum asking for some resin parts I had cast for a project I was working on. I told him I was not in the business of making parts but after he insisted for some time I finally capitulated, agreed on a price and spent a couple weeks making the parts. What a surprise, another resin oriented flake out. The guy could not get the money for one (lame sounding) reason after another. After a month or more of excuses he just stopped communicating. \ We aren't talking a lot of money, it's the time and effort that was the main loss. So the next guy that asks me for a similar favor will most likely get a resounding NO from me. What is it with resin that brings the flakes and cheats out? -
The wheels are aluminum and the tires are soft. It comes with PE brake rotors… And PE calipers…
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It is 1/43 scale. I expected the windows to be a female dog. By comparison to the wonky bent up, brittle and oversized white metal roll cage parts they were a breeze...
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I remember that one well. I watched my Dad build the one in the box art photos. He used 714 on the sides because it was our new phone area code at the time. I never cared for the Pactra metallic blue and red he used. Back then we mostly used Testors Metal Flakes and I thought the Sapphire Blue and Ruby Red would have looked better.
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This will be the 1976 Follmer-Morton Vasek Polak car as it ran at Watkins Glen. The casting is pretty good, but needed some smoothing out and scribe work. After I did the basic body clean up, I made the windows. The frames are PE that had to be bent to fit to the openings then painted black. The kit provides a sheet of flat clear stock to cut the glass from. The hood needed to have a hole bored through it for the fuel filler.
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I made decals for the gauges; the lighting isn’t the best so the shadows are blocking the small ones, (fuel, amps, temp and clock gauges). I didn’t make a decal for the tach. Seemed like a waste of time drawing it and then putting the AutoMeter tach in front of it. I can’t see the factory tach in the real car. (I don’t even know if it still works.)
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Great idea. It could be a cool phantom version.
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I made decals for the pattern and applied it over a coat of grimy black.
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I wish I knew more about it. It has the original factory interior still except for the driver's seat (I have the factory driver seat in storage) and the minor details like trim color and gauges. The dots are actually recessed on the real car, but not enough to try to replicate in this scale. I've never seen another '70-'73 Camaro with the same pattern/material, and thankfully it wears like iron. The car was built during the last week of the '73 production run (according to the VIN) and I found other minor quirks like '74 door locks in side the doors. So I'm guessing it was a late in the year option, (or maybe new one for '74?).
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Thanks guys. I made the floor mats from scratch. They are a combination of painted vinyl and custom decals.
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I made copies of the Kicker 6X9 speakers for the rear… Rubber Heartbeat floor mats for the front… And the velour dot pattern for the three factory seats… The dash still needs the gauges, but most of the painted details are done. The stereo is a Kenwood KRC2008 and the face is a custom decal. The burl wood trim is hand painted. The silver paint had worn through the dash trim on my car so I repainted it blue (and the Camaro script) to go with the exterior. I also added the A/C vents and made a non-manual transmission brake pedal.
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Trophies, plaques and medals/ribbons
Scale-Master replied to Nacho Z's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The unique and special awards (and Best Of's) I keep. Most of the plaques can't be recycled so I keep them too, unfortunately many get put into storage due to space in the display cases. Many/most of the "regular" trophies I donate back to the show (after I carefully peel off the engraved plaque and save) so they can reuse it next time with a new engraving. I don't need them, and if it helps make the show more affordable, all the better. Win-win. (Or would that be Win-win-win ?) -
I'd call it a tribute scheme. The race cars had a similar tri-color graphic and I thought pale yellow might work. I was half way through painting the second color before I realized why it seemed like such a familiar color combo... The Gunmetal is Tamiya TS, the Yellow is old Testors enamel, (as is the light gray). The red and black are Tamiya acrylics that were brush painted.
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Just a quick restoration of an older forgotten model.
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I don't believe so. I think there has only been the one layout/style. In addition, only one side is correct with the kit supplied decals. When they painted the restored car they flipped the flame stencil over to do the passenger side and then lettered it. The decals show it as a mirror image so the passenger side decal shape is actually upside down. (I wish I found that detail out before I made new decals for mine...)
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The knock offs have been added. The tire sidewalls will be reworked, I just needed to test fit everything again before I decide if I’m ready to paint the body. The little red bowties in the centers of the knock offs were fun to apply…
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I freehand brush painted the red and the black blocks of the graphics and the window trim with Tamiya acrylics. It took a couple coats for the red to get evened out.
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The decals in the kit I have are for the restored version (sort of..) and don't match at all the graphics of the actual movie car.
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I milled a little Rally style wheel and a set of tires from resin and upgraded this Hot Wheels. The green is a custom mix using Testors enamels.