Scale-Master

Yes, actually as mentioned at the start of this thread, this is the 7th 1/12 Seven I've made. Plus several other 1/24 and 1/64 versions. I think I have made 15 so far in various scales. Maybe 16... or 17...

Thanks guys. I tried to finish the body as much as possible before installing the interior and chassis. The headlights are a little less that a positive fit, but still line up well with just a little patience. The main grille bar fits well with no cement.

Thanks guys, it was a genuine pleasure meeting all of you too. Randy, your brass work is even more impressive in person than the photos (which are spectacular). Chris, congrats on your well deserved wins too, the Vega is looking great. I'm wondering what the next "big" thing will be too. I thought I might try and make a Super Seven...

Lady Godiva by Peter & Gordon

Thanks guys! I think it's about ready for a road trip... I stuffed all the junk in the trunk… And decided to include the little “Big Ruler” in there as well just for fun.

Thanks for the heads up. I was starting to think it would be an easy all the way through build. I had the same wobbly issue with the Mustang a few months back, I better check that out before final assembly.

I cleaned up the tie rod assembly that was cut off earlier and added it back to the front sub-frame and installed the steering box.

Thanks guys! The interior and engine bay are done. The fit of the parts is still good. I’m guessing my color choice for the wheels will be too bold for many…

Anyone else notice the high percentage of Mopars in this thread? Just an observation...

The "Acrylic" in the Enamel and Lacquer paints refers to the materials used in those solvent based paints. Those cannot be thinner or cleaned up with water. Acrylic hobby paints can be cleaned up with water.

I still have to add the stabilizer links to the clamps that are on the bar. They'll go in after I permanently mount the rear suspension to the chassis. Thanks, but there is no such thing as a first or second generation Z/28 SS Camaro. It is either one or the other. The RS package was available on both Z/28 and SS cars.

Count me as one more who has been quietly watching all along and appreciating (and sharing to those who aren't members) this truly beautiful work of art. Absolutely gorgeous workmanship.

Cool. I have no doubt you can pull it off from the work I've seen of yours Ben. I had an easier time building this one by beefing up the body as shown in the WIP. Also, I think I forgot to mention that I cut the two mounting "loops" off the grill to make it easier to install out of sequence.

Weather was good for painting last night so I shot the clear on the body. The base paint is all Tamiya. Mica Red for the top, Pearl White fading through Gloss Aluminum, Light Gunmetal and Gunmetal Gray; all rattle canned. The flame accent border is made up of decals from a sheet I produced a few years ago.

I cut the front sway bar off the lower control arm/tie rod/cross-member assembly and reshaped it to fit the new lower A-arms. I started with brass rod for the stabilizer links and will flesh them out with hardware later. I figure the yellow paint fattened up the thickness enough to approximate the 1-1/4 Suspension Techniques bar I put on the real car…

I started painting some of the base colors of the chassis. The red oxide is partly visible on the real car where I stripped away the undercoating before installing the engine and trans. The cross member on my car is bright red; ironically the instructions call out for a non-prototypical yellow for the rear sway bar, and I painted mine yellow back in the 90’s. The engine was test fitted once more… The rear suspension ride height is set up. And the track is set.

Didn't look like this when I got. It was a five year old '73 Kammback when I bought it in high school. This is how it looked a few years later.

Might as well make the traction bars while I’m in the area… I milled the U channel stock from a stick of .125 X .25 inch styrene stock, the bars are sheet styrene. I’ll make and add the hardware later.

Yes, I used graphite impregnated urethane bushings throughout when I first set it up, including the sub-frame mounts, but except for the upper control arm bushings. Because I set the front spring rate to "Competition" (instead of the "Sport" or "Street" options) those bushings are standard rubber to provide a manageable "weak link" I could easily monitor from under the hood since I expected it to be harsh. They are still the same ones (and in fine shape) from back then. I also shaved the lower control arm bushings to move the lower control arms forward and gained about 1/4 inch in overall wheelbase, also visually centering the front wheels in the wells. The resulting added caster was dealt with in the shims at the upper control arms. I run a bit more camber than stock to maximize the wear on the tires and to get the best contact patch on moderate to hard cornering. The rear sway bar uses lead bushings on the bar since it will blow out the urethane ones in less than 500 miles of good use. I custom cast those myself and have had zero problems since I started using them about 1992.

I installed the mono leaf back in 1988 partly because even though I had the OEM part numbers for the front springs, no supplier would guarantee the car would sit right. (My main guy said I could swap springs as many as I wanted to try, but for those of you who have changed front coils in a home garage you'll understand what pain that can be to test fit.) One of the benefits of this set up is I can adjust the spring rate to three settings and the ride height is infinitely adjustable. It handles incredibly well, like a giant go kart. But it also has a 1-1/4 inch front sway bar, 1 inch rear sway bar and traction bars that balance the rear leaf springs to match heavier spring rate I set up on the front. And even with the sub-frame connectors, the suspension is very hard on the car, not to mention the ride is harsher than my C/10. The only downside other than the aggressive ride is the inherent shudder common in C3 Corvettes when driving on very rough or uneven roads. Manageable, but grating, and not a real problem if you pay attention to the road. It was worth every penny and only took about 1/2 a day to install and align. I took to the alignment shop and was a little surprised I nailed the settings just using a tape measure, level and a square. But then being a brake & front end mechanic for several years beforehand probably helped...

These will become the front (Koni) shocks. Before assembling the main suspension parts to the sub-frame I figured I should make the sub-frame connectors. They are built up out of sheet styrene and brass. I also had to open the rear of the front sub-frame rails to accept them, like the real car.

I decided to work on the front suspension since I was tinkering with the sub-frame. I installed a C4 Corvette fiberglass monoleaf set up on the real car. So to add it to the model I made a brass insert for the cross-member where the spring will be mounted. The upper control arms and spindles are the factory GM units, but the lower control arms are special made items. I made this pair from sheet styrene.

I know how ya feel Harry, I don't think any of the ones I posted were guessed/answered. Hopefully this makes you feel better... Floyd - Take it Back. FWIW, the Moody Blues stuff was too easy, at least for a fan like me...

Thanks guys. I already shot the body colors, but since I had some leftover clear in the airbrush from doing a spot repair on my buddy’s F355 on Saturday, I shot the hood. I still have a few more decals to apply to the body before it is ready for clear.

It is my understanding there is no additional fee to enter more than one car.