futurattraction

I'm with you, Dave. I love that particular shot. Keep up the phenomenal work, bud.

Ha! That -17's probably going to be a retirement project... LOL To assemble the way I've shown here, the retainer and centering disk both need to be drilled to .032" to snugly fit over the tubing. I allow approximately .050" of tubing to extend past the top of the retainer. If you have a piece of small OD tubing that can fit under the retainer (with retainer inverted) it should help to keep the retainer square to the tubing. I use a piece of 1/16th K&S tubing to side over the stainless tubing and press the spring centering disc tightly against the retainer, after applying a small amount of CA glue to the stainless tubing between the retainer and centering disk. This is what the finished assembly of the retainer and centering disk should look like after gluing. This particular set of pieces hasn't been glued together - thus the gap between the disk and retainer. With this set of coilovers, the stainless tubing is ~.410 length. This allows enough of the tubing to insert into the shock body that it makes it stable, laterally. This is what the assembled shocks look like. When assembled the way I've shown, the shock is ~.565" from the top of the spring retainer to the bottom of the heim joint - not center of it. I think I have an adult onset of attention deficit disorder, LOL. Skipping around - more pics. With my plan of cutting at least one door and having the front end removed, I've made a bit more progress toward getting locating pins and tabs attached. Tabs at upper firewall for fender mounts: Pins installed Fitment of above Tube gussets added to upper roll cage:

Seems like I go months between updates, and I don't like that, but I guess it's better than not making any headway at all. Anyway, here's another installment of bits and pieces of work I've gotten done in recent weeks. I'll start by providing a step-by-step buildup of the rear coil-over shocks. The coilover kit comes with springs, upper spring retainers, lower heim joints, simulated spring adjusters, spring centering discs and stainless piston rods. Here the main body has had the larger adjuster installed snugly against the step on the body. Lower adjuster ring before sliding up and fastening. Coilover body with smaller OD adjuster attached with lower body collar shown. Lower collar attached. Heim joints were shortened and attached in both assembled bodies. I used a 1/16th bit and drilled out the extra material that protruded beyond the end of the collar. More to come...

That looks super, Joe!

Those look phenomenal, Dave. You made a great recovery from your first go-'round...

That looks fantastic, Henry!

Those look perfect, Dave. Your decal-making friend deserves some props for the job he/she did...

Awesome work, Jeff...

If you're going for "wow" factor, I'd go with the bigger hat in the first pic. It's all coming along great, Tyrone. Keep up the fantastic work!

I don't think the paint could have turned out better, Dave. That looks so real!

A mini work-of-art, Dave... Superb!

Looks great, bud!

Wow! That's turning out great, Tyrone (not that I'd ever doubt it wouldn't when coming from your hands)...

Meticulous work, Dave! Now - can you make the other side match??? LOL

Excellent work, brother! I'm totally impressed with your cart.

A work of art, Rick. Thanks for sharing. I'm looking forward to seeing more progress as time goes on!

Amazing...

Another great looking build, Tyrone... I love your builds!

I want to thank Casey for coming through in a big way for me. I advertised a couple weeks ago for a Revell Mustang chassis pan from the recently released LX coupe. Casey had not only that but virtually the entire kit. Unfortunately, I didn't have anything he was interested in trading for, but he sent the kit to me anyway. I don't know how anyone could be a better trader than that. Thanks, so much, Casey! Scott

I'm speechless. And that rarely happens... LOL

Looking mighty good, Tyrone!

Your new wheels look really sharp and definitely match the 1:1s much more closely. I totally understand the getting burned out on body mods. I can't get over the hump with my stock body Fairmont and it's all due to finishing the rear wheel well openings to my satisfaction. Grrrrr

Awesome! It goes without saying that if these pictures were framed against another background that didn't give away its size, it could easily pass for the real thing. I love your work, Dave... Super job.

She's looking super, Chris. Keep up the fantabulous work, my friend!

That looks absolutely fantastic, Leonard. Thanks for the nice words about my levers. Your chassis looks killer, bud. I was looking forward to seeing an update. This one makes the wait well worthwhile! Don't take so long next time...