Lunajammer

Beautiful job on a beautiful car Dominik. The trouble with your hinging paid off.

Batman was a Shriner?

The wheels took me several evenings. They were airbrushed with Model Master Wood, as seen in a previous photo. The rims were painted black around all the spokes, then the retaining rings painted flat silver. Lastly they were weathered using Vallejo washes and chalk pastels.

I know most of this deck bed will never be seen once it's inside the box, but I took great delight in weathering it. For one, I need the practice using Vallejo washes and pastel chalks, and secondly I like the molded texture, justing waiting to be brought to life. I imagine this is what it might have looked like in the spring of '24 after the thaw. The underside is no exception. Fun to detail. I apologize for the annoying blue bkgnd on some of my photos but my camera color balances to that better than white.

I wanted the body to be grey/green with and antique ivory billboard. To get the light color I mixed some brown into the Ivory and airbrushed. The cap of the grey/green Humbrol paint looked exactly how I wanted the body color, but was pretty disappointed with how green it came out. Cap had probably faded from sitting on the LHS shelf but I'm forging ahead. I also failed to notice it's a flat color, but that too may be a happy accident. Hosted on Fotki I want the hood to be displayed open so I cut it at the hinge marks on the right side. I gotta admit I love the surface texture and am considering not painting it. Then shaved the contacting edges so they can be glued in the open position without looking fat and clunky.

When I bought this at a flea market a few years ago I wasn't aware of this release and thought it was a collectible. It's not really because even though it was a custom order for Bell Systems, they made plenty. Perhaps someone has the run number. I started it around the holidays and until now it may be the most enjoyable model I've built. Like the times it represents, the kit is uncomplicated (65 parts), goes together well but is not perfect. It's essentially the same tooling as the other classic old AMT Model T offerings but with the box van body. I love the wheels but was disappointed with the alignment and offset of the spoke halves. The engine is a delight. Detail is decent but, like the rest of the kit, prefitting is mandatory because many pieces don't have obvious contact points so alignment is "best guess" which can bite you five steps later. The paint I bought for engine color was a let down so I ended up mixing my own grey/green, which was a lucky accident because it was closer to the color I wanted. Photo lighting doesn't bring that out well though.

@ Billy K. My admiration for your work grows exponentially. Hard to believe a teen can reach such levels of skill as fast as you have, and not just paint.

The way I've understood it Steve, is to either recoat within two hours while the surface is still soft, or after 48 when the surface is cured enough to let another coat grab hold. Anything in between (24 hrs.) is neither soft enough to blend into the bottom coat, or hard enough to accept another coat. I've never tested it to see what kind of trouble can occur, just took the advice that it should be avoided. But that's probably old school (old paints) advice too.

I did something similar. Extending the fenders is pretty easy really. More so than establishing the stance. the compound curves are friendly to sanding. ​

If FatBoyKustoms' insomnia gets resolved, then at least one member will.

Foiling definitely requires patience and a steady hand, but it sure is the icing on the cake when it's done and you're doing a bang up job.

Yes, really nicely shot. Thanks for the effort to share.

Wonderful. It rings true. Just curious what your preferred weathering technique is?

Unbelievable decal work. I love the resourcefulness and delicate cutting skill.

As a kid I couldn't have cared less about the boring technicals. I was all about how they looked... Until the parts names went away. Talk about not appreciating what you have until they're gone.

No worse than engines in the back seat. As long as you can't tell driving down the street.

And some wonder why impeccable examples of stock originals are vanishing and skyrocketing in price.

I've been wanting to model my 1:1 Kammback of 30-years (currently sitting in a farm yard) but I can't get past the stubby body of the F/C and don't have the ambition to correct it. Do you have any thoughts about lengthening behind the doors?

Me thinks a detailed tutorial is in order.

These are the desk lamps at my model bench. More than one light source adds a lot. The small torch I use selectively to add interest or bring out a highlight, but not so strong that it looks like a spot. All of photography is about managing light. Without it, subject or composition won't matter.

Oooooo that's a good one. For modern engines, i've discovered the the Revell Audi R8 V10 has been a pleasant surprise.

I like the solid roof and solid front air dam of the Bad Actor that I have half built. But aesthetically, I prefer the squared wheel opening and quad headlights of Street Fighter/Quicksilver.

Toothpicks, bamboo skewers (100-pack $1 at the dollar store), coffee stir sticks, super glue and styrofoam mounting base.

Glad you reposted it. I missed it the first time and sorry I did. This looks great.

Earthtone pastels are good because you get a variety of colors. There are many brands that any art supply store might carry. There are smaller, cheaper packs but they don't include black and/or gray which I think is important for mixing.