Codi

Superb plumbing Chris, the shots you shared really give them their due. btw, that crank pulley is phenomenal. cheers, tim

Superb plumbing Chris, the shots you shared really give them their due. btw, that crank pulley is phenomenal. cheers, tim

Thanks Bob and Brad. Brad, the motor plate, bell-housing and trans are on deck. s-l-o-w-l-y moving along with it. Pete, I wholeheartedly agree with the natural look of the annealing. The concerns would be long term oxidation of the metal and more importantly, I don't want to risk undoing my joints and work by going back over them with a flame. My jig to make them was pretty crude and involved my fingers too. The detail with the flanges etc. compared to any of the kit plastic headers, well there is no comparison. I'll have a build book on the car and I'll be sure to have pics of them in their "raw" state. I'll try to send you a note this weekend on the steps taken to make them. What scale is your build btw? Thank you too Ray and Randy. I'm happy Randy with where it's at and how quickly (for me anyhow) overall. If I stay on my "schedule" I think this will be done by June or so. That would be great and then its back to get the Falcon finished. After that, a special project for a friend. Cheers, Tim

Aw come on Randy, admit it, half the fun is figuring out HOW you're going to make it and then making it happen. Those turned out so slick. Now, could you work a little faster please? (this coming from the guy known as "turtle") cheers, tim

Hey thanks John, except I realized last night I forgot to add the braces to them. Done now. cheers, tim

Thank you Dave! Joe, oh Joe. Yes, we have the same ruler, but I'm still trying to figure out how to use it. There was a lot of brass tubing that "died" to make those buggers. Each one was annealed about 10 times to get the bends without crimping and I found a quick method to fix those that did a. You should see the burn on my stomach where I dropped the pliers during one torch session and it melted the top, and my skin, almost instantaneously. Learned a quick lesson there my friend. ALWAYS wear my smock, somehow I forgot to put it on that time. So, yeah, 8 little pieces of bent tubing is all I got to show for it. Cheers, Tim

Nicely executed John. As always. The details you put into this one are sweet. The circuit panel on the frame being but one example. Cheers

That is one striking paint job Ray. Very cool build. cheers, tim

That is one striking paint job Ray. Very cool build. cheers, tim

Many thanks everyone. Started the headers on Monday and wrapped them up this morning. 40 degree swept back shorties. Scale about 16" in length. They aren't attached to the heads permanently yet as I have to add the bolts and will probably paint them flat black or white. cheers, tim I wanted them up and away so that the bottom end of the block & girdle would be more visible.

Hey Art, would love to see you back at that one. Got the 2 halves of the chassis combined. In the 1st pic you can see 3 brackets I made to support the chassis for the remainder of the project. 2 machined, 1 made of brass to support the rear when lining it up to the engine. The aluminum one will be the primary and used to do the brakes / hubs etc. The front bracket I machined so it would line up the frame rails and a connecting rail that will limit back and forth on the chassis during fabrication. cheers

Thanks for the comments guys regarding the mock-up and where the chassis sits at this point. cheers, Tim

Before I machine some simple alum. brackets to support the chassis I wanted to get a quick look at where I'm at. These mock-up picks are for Dave (comp1839). The slicks are sticking out about 6.0mm to far yet as I have the plastic bracket pushing it outward from the body. Therefore the front wheel / tire will be moved inward as well. The body will get a few tweeks with regards to the body height but by and large this is pretty close to where the build is headed. The pics with the engine show the 3D printed blower manifold and supercharger / enderle setup that Chris Sobak was kind enough to send my way. I am going to use the 3D printed manifold but try to machine the blower. The Enderle is only their for perspective as I'm going the Crower 8 port setup instead and will fabricate that too. ENJOY DAVE!!!!!!

Uh, sorry John, we'll just stick with our given names if it's all the same to you. cheers, tim

Uh, sorry John, we'll just stick with our given names if it's all the same to you. cheers, tim

Thank you Randy.

The old saying goes "the devil is in the details"................should we call you El Diablo now? Some truly nice detailing going on here, as usual ! Cheers, Tim

Many many thanks gentlemen. I wanted to answer Brads question. When I pulled each side out of the jig when finished, I just washed it with Dawn to get the majority of the flux etc. off and then took a dremel polishing wheel to it while laying it flat on a wood block. Few minutes each side and they were done. No filing, sanding sticks etc. which was the goal when I tried this method. I used the smallest benz0matic mini torch which I noticed Dave had on his desk and uses. $15. at the hardware store. Count me a fan. Cheers, tim

Thanks Pete & Dave. Dave, I'll be doing really short zoomies that I want to just clear the sides of the firewall. The mocked up one I made has about 4 to 5mm clearance. Looks pretty cool with the 30 degree swept back I'm going to use. More on that soon. Today I got the side rails of the chassis soldered up. They are an excellent match that I attribute to the jig. I purposely left the main rails a tad longer in the front and back so I could tape the ends down in the jig while soldering. Clean-up was very fast and the joints are some of the best I've gotten yet. A couple pics, cheers

Thanks for the heads-up Pete. I typically wear a respirator when I solder but still good info. I have a resistance unit but I'm doing it this way to avoid any contact with the pieces themselves to eliminate any chance of movement. cheers, tim

Chassis started today. The burnt wood block above the frame I've started was a test. I want to align the two halves as perfectly as possible and with 3 different diameter of tubing & rod the challenge is to get them centered properly. The burnt block has some channels I cut in on the mill and then I placed the appropriate tubing or rod in it's slot and flame soldered everything. Done in a minute after all the prep that was done. The brass piece sitting on next to the burnt test piece was the result. I only ran a dremel brush over it for a second and that's the way it turned out. Strong clean joints that required ZERO clean-up. That I really like. So I took my drawings and cut the same grooves into the big piece that you see. Nothing has been soldered yet as I have to make duplicate pieces of rod & tube to match the first. I'm confident when done that the 2 halves will be the same and I can start the assembly in earnest. Cheers, Tim

Hi ya Pete, I've gotten to know Fred pretty well actually even though I've never met the man. Had some minor issues the last couple years and he ALWAYS gets me squared away each and every time. You're right, he's truly a wealth of knowledge. That alone is worth the price of their equipment for a newb like me. Living 3000 miles from their offices makes it all the more important to have people like Fred to rely upon. When I call them next week I'll mention you by name. Thanks again. Started the headers by machining the flanges and got a bunch of tubing to start bending up. I have a very simple "jig" to help me get the sweep I want on them. I'll share it here once I confirm it actually does what I intended. The small holes in the center are for brass "pins" to solder the tubes to. The actual tube diameter is much bigger of course. Cheers

Morning Pete, I have run across that issue with mine as well. I've had to work around it and make certain setup compromises in the past. I like the idea that they are willing to make a "flipped" model to avoid the issue. Did they share a part number with you and or a price? Have you ordered yours yet by chance? I'll make an inquiry this week sometime and find out more too so I can get one ordered. Thanks for sharing the insight. Cheers, Tim

If you have an issue Michael, real or perceived with someone's comments, then I suggest you do the mature thing and take it up with them directly via a PM. I'll ask again that you remove your post as I don't appreciate your hi-jacking my thread over a perceived slight. Tim

Michael, please remove your comments and I'd prefer if you omit any and ALL future posts to my threads. Tim