Codi

Thanks for the comments guys regarding the mock-up and where the chassis sits at this point. cheers, Tim

Before I machine some simple alum. brackets to support the chassis I wanted to get a quick look at where I'm at. These mock-up picks are for Dave (comp1839). The slicks are sticking out about 6.0mm to far yet as I have the plastic bracket pushing it outward from the body. Therefore the front wheel / tire will be moved inward as well. The body will get a few tweeks with regards to the body height but by and large this is pretty close to where the build is headed. The pics with the engine show the 3D printed blower manifold and supercharger / enderle setup that Chris Sobak was kind enough to send my way. I am going to use the 3D printed manifold but try to machine the blower. The Enderle is only their for perspective as I'm going the Crower 8 port setup instead and will fabricate that too. ENJOY DAVE!!!!!!

Uh, sorry John, we'll just stick with our given names if it's all the same to you. cheers, tim

Uh, sorry John, we'll just stick with our given names if it's all the same to you. cheers, tim

Thank you Randy.

The old saying goes "the devil is in the details"................should we call you El Diablo now? Some truly nice detailing going on here, as usual ! Cheers, Tim

Many many thanks gentlemen. I wanted to answer Brads question. When I pulled each side out of the jig when finished, I just washed it with Dawn to get the majority of the flux etc. off and then took a dremel polishing wheel to it while laying it flat on a wood block. Few minutes each side and they were done. No filing, sanding sticks etc. which was the goal when I tried this method. I used the smallest benz0matic mini torch which I noticed Dave had on his desk and uses. $15. at the hardware store. Count me a fan. Cheers, tim

Thanks Pete & Dave. Dave, I'll be doing really short zoomies that I want to just clear the sides of the firewall. The mocked up one I made has about 4 to 5mm clearance. Looks pretty cool with the 30 degree swept back I'm going to use. More on that soon. Today I got the side rails of the chassis soldered up. They are an excellent match that I attribute to the jig. I purposely left the main rails a tad longer in the front and back so I could tape the ends down in the jig while soldering. Clean-up was very fast and the joints are some of the best I've gotten yet. A couple pics, cheers

Thanks for the heads-up Pete. I typically wear a respirator when I solder but still good info. I have a resistance unit but I'm doing it this way to avoid any contact with the pieces themselves to eliminate any chance of movement. cheers, tim

Chassis started today. The burnt wood block above the frame I've started was a test. I want to align the two halves as perfectly as possible and with 3 different diameter of tubing & rod the challenge is to get them centered properly. The burnt block has some channels I cut in on the mill and then I placed the appropriate tubing or rod in it's slot and flame soldered everything. Done in a minute after all the prep that was done. The brass piece sitting on next to the burnt test piece was the result. I only ran a dremel brush over it for a second and that's the way it turned out. Strong clean joints that required ZERO clean-up. That I really like. So I took my drawings and cut the same grooves into the big piece that you see. Nothing has been soldered yet as I have to make duplicate pieces of rod & tube to match the first. I'm confident when done that the 2 halves will be the same and I can start the assembly in earnest. Cheers, Tim

Hi ya Pete, I've gotten to know Fred pretty well actually even though I've never met the man. Had some minor issues the last couple years and he ALWAYS gets me squared away each and every time. You're right, he's truly a wealth of knowledge. That alone is worth the price of their equipment for a newb like me. Living 3000 miles from their offices makes it all the more important to have people like Fred to rely upon. When I call them next week I'll mention you by name. Thanks again. Started the headers by machining the flanges and got a bunch of tubing to start bending up. I have a very simple "jig" to help me get the sweep I want on them. I'll share it here once I confirm it actually does what I intended. The small holes in the center are for brass "pins" to solder the tubes to. The actual tube diameter is much bigger of course. Cheers

Morning Pete, I have run across that issue with mine as well. I've had to work around it and make certain setup compromises in the past. I like the idea that they are willing to make a "flipped" model to avoid the issue. Did they share a part number with you and or a price? Have you ordered yours yet by chance? I'll make an inquiry this week sometime and find out more too so I can get one ordered. Thanks for sharing the insight. Cheers, Tim

If you have an issue Michael, real or perceived with someone's comments, then I suggest you do the mature thing and take it up with them directly via a PM. I'll ask again that you remove your post as I don't appreciate your hi-jacking my thread over a perceived slight. Tim

Michael, please remove your comments and I'd prefer if you omit any and ALL future posts to my threads. Tim

Hey Alix, kit bashed means it came from some unknown kit where I stash unused parts for possible future builds. In this case, I have no idea where they came from. cheers

Thanks Chris & DaveWilly. yes, one more thing on the list before I get to the chassis. I have all I need now for proper planning and fitment to start it now. Joe, limericks now huh? That got a loud hearty chuckle from me. Keep em' coming. Thanks too Randy. The front rims, after assembly and removal from the jig were centered and didn't require any glue to hold the hub in place whatsoever. It was that tight of a fit and the angles I got lucky on. I did add a little glue just to be sure of course. The front tires are kit bashed and the rears are modified compresin tires. I've still got a little more sanding and finessing the slicks yet as they're just a shade too wide and the sidewalls need a slight correction. Close though. When will we something soon from you btw?

Hey guys, thanks much. Here's all 4. They're all drilled to accept tire valves after final polishing. I'll do that last during the final assembly phase. Cheers, Tim

1 down, 1 to go. Assembly should have been a breeze I thought. I made a simple but fairly effective jig to locate everything but it took quite a bit of fiddling with it to get the first together. I'm sharing pics of the wheel next to the kit wheel/tire combo as a comparison. Fining polishing will really bring it to life. cheers, tim You can clearly see how out of scale the kit wheel hub, spokes and rim are.

John, I know the recent pics are to showcase your engine progress, but I always take time to look at what's going around the subject you're sharing. The frame details and interior floorboards are just a few examples. Nice eye John. cheers, tim

Bob, thanks as always. PeteJ. -I'll check out that software you mentioned, thanks for sharing it. Yes, rotary on tilting angle plate is my usual setup. I'm grateful and jealous that I don't live that close to Sherline. Jealous in all the things you can learn being so near and "grateful" as I'd spend WAY too much money there. Thanks for following along. Dave, yup on the jig even though I have only a slight clue on how I'll set it up. I've researched how guys do wire wheels and I think it can be a good basis to set these up for assembly. If you can make me the "dice" valve stems, I'll be happy to put them on the car. Appreciate the encouragement as always! cheers,tim

Started on the American Racing 12 spokes. I saw a pair of these in a pic of Wes Campbell's Morris Mini machined of aluminum as well. I liked the look and thought I could pull it off so I'm giving it a shot. The kit wheels are just not suitable. I was anxious to check my spoke off sets so in these pics you'll see the hub with 2 spokes in place for mock-up purposes. A few more minor details to address on this one (polish and add tire valve) and do it's twin. I'll post pics early next week of the finished pair. cheers, tim

Hi Dave, I worked on my numbers and outline on how to make the 12 spoke front wheels today. I don't know if my idea will work but I'm going to give it a try. The hubs and rims will be drilled. Would you by chance happen to know the degree off-set concerning the spokes from the hub to the wheel rim? As best I can surmise, it's between 3 to 5 degrees. I want to angle drill the holes in the hub itself to get a good seat and proper look. After I get these things done I'll post some sort of mock-up here before I start soldering up the chassis. \ As best I can tell, the proportions etc. will be similar to "The Tramp". It will be 110" wheelbase too. cheers my friend!

Brad, thanks for following and I figured this post might hold you over a little bit. Some minor changes to the chassis drawings yet and then I'm starting to fab it. Bob, the differences of the two bodies is pretty dramatic actually. I dropped them over a kit funny car chassis just to get an idea of how they look and it's truly night and day. Appreciate the comment on the wheels too. Chris, I've got nothing on you sir. Keep posting details on your engine build-up, they'll make great reference photos for me. Dave, "schwoopy"....I like it. When I did the mock-up that I noted to Bob above, I dropped the block and heads in the chassis. This thing will be ALL motor. btw, did I say "thanks" to you? The wheels took me longer than I anticipated (as always) but they look sweet in person. Next time we get together I'll bring along to share. Tim, glad you popped in and I DO appreciate your comments. I've read your articles many times and follow your work as well. Hope you continue to follow along even though it takes me a while to do a build. Cheers to all, tim

Changed the body again and got the rear wheels done. These couple of pics show the body on the left that I've narrowed further. Don't care for barn door aerodynamics (especially at the firewall) so I re-did the body one more, final time. Added an extended brass lip to the cowl and glassed the body on the inside for strength and narrowed the front of the much more substantially. I'll stay with the fender-less version as it lets me drop the body down further at the rear. This pic is of the center spoked portion of the wheel on the mill. The completed rims. I have to add the tire valve and these have NOT been polished whatsoever yet. The last pic shows the center sitting flush to the wheel as I cut a thin, .5mm groove for it sit in. The tires still need a little more work as the sidewall is too wide yet and not to proper scale. For my very first pair of wheels, I'm very happy with them and thanks again Dave for the guidance and drawings you did, couldn't have done them otherwise. Cheers

Love the cars Francesco. Your execution of the builds and the clean nature of assembly speak volumes. Nice little touches in every pic you posted. Look forward to your future pics. Cheers, Tim