Codi

Thank you guys. Wasn't sure if this thread would hold much interest because of the subject but it's apparent the drag fans are strong at the forum. MIke, (iborg) no cnc here. All free hand. Chris, you should just get started with the "essentials" to get started with machining. You can always add to the tooling later as the $ becomes available. You'll enjoy it. Here's an update on the rear. Got it soldered and 97% of the clean up is done on this portion. I have another week I think on this unit but I'm waiting on a particular end mill this week to get onto the next few pieces. I'll nickel plate it when done and then get back to the engine. cheers, tim I still have to add the 6 tubes and bolts to the rear cover.

Worked on the center spool today by machining the "spine and ribs". The pic you see with the aluminum "bell" was a quick test to proof out that I could do what I wanted to. It is NOT correct however in that the flange isn't drilled for the 11 bolts to secure it and more importantly, the "bell" itself is 2mm too tall. The curvature of the bell will actually end flush with the flange. But now I know I can do it and what I have to do. Some tricky pieces yet to fabricate but I can envision it already and I think it will be a very reasonable facsimile. Cheers, tim In this pic you can clearly see the part of the bell that has to be narrowed. Just experimenting, machined it in about 15 minutes. I hope to get the bells done early next week and then start the pinion flange and the tricky rear flange that joins the finned rear portion to the spool. I have a plan for that piece and hope it works out.

Chris, yes sir, .22mm on the fin width. It was time consuming. As an fyi, I elmer glued my piece to the back of a resin Halibrand casting because I just wanted a quick visualization of it. The Frankland and Halibrand are noticeably different in their appearance from that era and my pic is not accurate as it would be simply too long. Tom and Manfred, thank you gentlemen and for following this new thread too. Many pieces yet to make on this one but its a good start. Art, I was inspired by the early 70's funnys like the dunn & reath car that ran a halibrand and some others that ran the Frankland. I just liked the look of the Frankland due to the fins on the top AND bottom of the rear cover/housing that were fairly long in length. I agree it's a bit different from the norm, but as you know, I like different. It is period correct however. Cheers fellas, tim

Thank you Chris & Dave.....promise not to drop this one. Today I went forward with machining the quick change rear end. I was trying to choose between the typical Halibrand or a Frankland. I really liked the rear gear cover back in the day on the Frankland but I wasn't sure if I could machine it. The tricky part was continuing the fins on the back of the cover up and over the top and bottom like the original. Took a day to get it done but it's the most visual piece on the rear and I wanted to get it as correct as I could. It's a shade over 1 cm. I've got about a dozen more pieces to make for the rear to call it done. The grooves you see on the side of the rear end are for .8mm brass tubes that I'll solder in to replicate the real one. The fins are .22mm thick as an fyi. cheers, tim

REALLY nice start Eric. Very clean. cheers, tim

Yeah, too much on the brain John. My apologies Art...........you know I meant you I hope. Cheers

A hearty CONGRATULATIONS Chris!

That red is a "poppin" Dave.

Thanks everyone for following. I have a "favor" to ask at this point regarding this new thread. Let's leave the history of drag racing out of it. It's not that I don't mind the info and sharing but I'm just building a phantom funny from what would be 71 or 72' as a "coulda' been. Not trying to start up a debate on front v. rear driven cars. I appreciate your consideration in advance. I DO appreciate your interest in the subject and realize that you simply wanted to share info, especially when it came to Harry's original questions. But the thread has gotten side tracked. Going to experiment on machining some things for the quick change rear end today. It will be either a Halibrand or Frankland depending on how I make out today. Cheers

I certainly agree with your comments guys. I like it a lot better too. Got the trunk cut out of the new body and the A pillars glassed in for strength so I can cut out the doors and trunk lid. Thanks for following along and sharing your thoughts. cheers

Chris, always interested in something new. I'll be sure to check out your jig when you're ready to share. Re-chopped the top. No clean-up as I'm opening the trunk and doors next, but it represents a scale 2" chop at the front and rear pillars.

Nice to tick another off the punch list Chris. With your wood grips that's going to look fantastic. cheers, tim

I applaud your willingness to tackle such a decal job. Can't get my head around even attempting such a project and you pulled it off nicely. cheers, tim

You have to be pleased Art. I like the subtle details you're addressing, truly add to the build. Cheers

That is just too cool Eric. Count me along too for the ride. cheers, tim

Dwayne, the "mobile jig" you reference was in no way a contributing factor to what occurred. But certainly you should do what you think is best on YOUR build. tim

Mock-ups of the car. The car will sit a scale 4" off the front spoiler lip YET TO BE ADDED.....and I'll take about 1/8" off the aluminum spoilers on the back. The ride height just in front of the rear wheel well will be 9" in scale. I'll adjust my jig for the new build and start by fabricating the Halibrand rear end, trans and Donovan while drawing up the chassis. Not sure if I'll do a solid drop axle or independent front suspension, I'll decide when I get the chassis drawn up. On the body, in addition to the front spoiler extension, I'm considering a few other modifications, in no particular order: front fender "blisters" for additional tire clearance, canard wings on the back half of the car, but they'll probably interfere with the headers, rear-window venting similar to what Chris has done on his Vega funny and maybe extending the lower side valances of the car ever so slightly. The hardest part of the body work is done with the extension of the wheel base when I move the wheel wells back. There will be plenty of room for the driver. cheers, tim IN THIS NEXT PIC, PLEASE NOTE THAT THE ANGLE I TOOK THIS PHOTO THE FRONT APPEARS TO SIT TOO HIGH, IT DOESN'T.

Thanks for the pics Chris......this is my favorite as an fyi. I'm not going to try to replicate this car exactly, but I like the cars dimensions etc. alot. And to everyone that is following, thank you for the interest and comments. I'm going to take time to do some drawings that need finished on the Mustang funny build so I can get it moving forward in a meaningful way. In the meantime, I'll be cutting this one up as noted to get it right for designing the chassis. cheers!

Wow guys, that was fast. Just to clarify, I was planning on raising the roof only at the FRONT pillars. 1/16" , no more than 3/32" will do the trick. I like the height of the roof at the back and want to keep that. It should have a slight forward lean no matter how subtle in my opinion. One thing I've learned from chopping roofs is that a little bit goes a long way and I obviously took this one a little to far initially. Bob, like the "Phoenix" idea....was already thinking about a nickname for it. "Son of Henry" just doesn't do it though. Thanks again everyone. The next step is to take the new kit that I ordered and get the roof re-profiled and the doors / trunk open. That will surely change it's character.

Just a mock-up. Need to re-chop it and open doors and trunk. Most of the Henry parts will fit this I believe. Not sure on the engine yet though. If the turbo motor doesn't fit, (it's very tight) then a naturally aspirated 800+ cube mountain motor Ford would go in it.......bracket car perhaps? comments welcome, tim

I don't know what to say other than thanks to each of you. I've "buried" Henry now. Time to move on right?!! It was a closed casket, there will be no final pics of the chassis as it's not how I want to remember this build. Today I discovered the 1/16" steel plate that the jig was bolted to was bent as well from the fall. The main hoop did it's job and protected the driver ( I would like to believe anyhow) but it was bent severely in addition to all the broken joints etc. My point being, there is no chance to salvage it. For all of you that followed along, the tolerances were SOO tight on it, that a 64" off meant all the world during assembly. I'm WAY off a 64" now. I'm keeping the chassis to part off of it when I move on. No sense remaking custom brackets etc. that took hours for no good reasons right? For a giggle, the electrician showed up today to add more overhead lights over my revamped work area, sure enough the ballister was bent and he can't finish till Thursday, figures huh. I'll share shortly what I'm going to do next but the Mustang Funny (heard ya' JOE!!!) is one of the two (3 perhaps?) that I'm going to get after. Really want something simple and easy so to speak to add to the project list. My "Gravity" paints are on the way for sampling and I'll let you know what I think. They were part of the final prep for Henry. THANKS & CHEERS EVERYONE!

Good morning fellas, I just want to say thank you for all the sentiments you've shared. Many of you have expressed all too accurately how i feel about it right now. You're a good bunch of guys! Not to be melodramatic about it, but it's like I lost a pet or something. It was THIS close to being finished. On the brighter side, it wasn't in a state where any of the pieces I've made were on it or destroyed. I REALLY want to use the many parts I've fabricated but I'm not mentally ready to go after a chassis like that one just yet. Might use them over several, different types of builds. Electrician is coming over today to add some over head lights as I've re-vamped my work area. The Mustang funny will most certainly be one of the things I move on with. I'd like to also start a "simple" build to do alongside of it as I want to take part of the Summer to work on my painting skills. Here's a pic of a Falcon I worked on that would be a good candidate I think for using many of the Henry bits and pieces (no pun intended Joe, I assure you) I'd open the doors and trunk and was thinking I should re-chop the front of the roof as I think it's too low. Any thoughts guys? Comments welcome.

Hey Chris, for what it's worth, no build is perfect. None. From what you've described, I completely concur that you should just leave well enough alone and see her finished. You've nothing left to prove on this build and have every reason to be proud of how it turned out so far and have no doubt it will be overwhelming when completely done. Cheers to you, tim

Well now, so I made a lot of headway on the brackets etc. Got ready to solder on a fabricated bracket for the chute handle. Moving from one work area to another I carried the chassis in its jig and felt something on my arm as I was sitting down. There was a big ol' hornet on my forearm and the moment I went to shake it off in panic, the chassis and its jig (which were secured in the milling vise) went to the ground. Naturally, it landed upside down and is for all intents and purposes, destroyed. So, this thread has come to an ignominious ending. In summation, 20 months of building it, many custom parts that have no home for the time being and easily more than a 1000 hours in the chassis and it's components. I did get a bunch of experience and knowledge from this one which will serve me well going forward. But the disappointment in not seeing this finished as intended just sucks. Cheers?

Thanks Clayton...only ever made one semi truck when I was a kid. That's another story but it was cool to do. Joe, scratch-building is more fun right? Like the "war of the worlds" pics too. What must go on in that mind of yours. Chris, I took stainless steel tube to make the body and used fluorescent yellow fishing line. Cut 8 strands and put them in the tube, glued them in place and cut off the ends of the strands. Light passes through it very easily to give the effect. cheers, tim