Modelmartin

That is a really well done model. To look that good in close-up shots is really something. It's so cleanly built and nicely detailed. Many thumbs up!

I also thank you for that link. Wow! That is a ton of detail. I have built 2 of the Revell and 1 of the UT GT1 Evo kits and must say that on balance the UT is way better. The Revell has a slightly better body shape and body detail but the UT has it all over the Revell for the rest of the engine, driveline, suspension, interior and ease of assembly. Plus it has that lift off front with good detail under it. The front and rear body assemblies fit!. The Revell is OK if you do it curbside and glue the back end of the body to it. That is before you even consider that the Revell tires are all wrong. Front and rear are the same diameter! The Revell kits should just be parts donors! They are so difficult to assemble compared to the UT. The ideal would be to use the UT and graft some of the Revell body to it but I think the finished UT looks fine. This is the UT. This is the Revell. I haven't built a Tamiya '96 car yet. How weird is that? I must do that soon. I have 5 of them!

Sounds like a good way to make a small fortune......out of a large one!!

I have not used the spray stuff but I have used the Microscale brush-on a lot and have never had any problems. It has saved a lot of decals for me and works really well. I have used all types of clear coats over it with no trouble at all, even lacquer.

Wow! I didn't know the Clearview 2000 would flash over the wheel openings and build up those ridges between the headlights and bumpers! Any tips on how to avoid that in the future?

Cool model, Bruce! I like it.

You picked a tough one to chop but it is do-able if you use a little imagination. I would cut the windshield out in one piece and slant it back. I would shorten the b-pillars and then bend the rear window down. Perhaps a couple of slits cut below the sides of the rear window will help out there. Alternately, you could cut out the whole rear roof and fastback section and sink it down into the deck. It would move forward as you do it so you would have to fill a gap on the sides and rear. I would not cut into the rear window at all. An advantage of laying down the front and rear windows is that the stock glass fits and if you are careful, the window trim will still be there. Conventional techniques won't work very well on a car like this that has such a slope to the roof. I once chopped the roof on a 70 Mustang body with a similar technique and it worked very well. I chopped the top on an AMC Pacer when I did the pattern for Jimmy Flintstone's Pacer Pro/Mod resin body. The roof on that got cut into 6 pieces and then all of those gaps filled after all of those sections were glued to their respective pillars! That was fun. I think a chopped top Lambo Countach would be the ultimate challege!

That is great start to a really cool project. I am a big K3 and K4 fan and will be watching this one!

Ahem! Capital letters? Coherent punctuation? modellers? dont? Let he who is without sin cast the first stone! Points for using to and too correctly however! All in good fun! All of this pidgin and Japanese makes Zeb's Flawduh shtick seem tame. We could easily understand him! I have no idea what you Nippophiles and Faux-Hawaiians are saying........Hmmmm!... Maybe that's the point.

Model! There are a few things that don't look right for this car. I am ignoring the outsized people in the back.

Regarding the Talcum or Baby Powder - it gives you a much better surface finish. I just pour a little in the mold and rotate it until the talc covers all of the casting surface and then shake off the excess. It works really well, is cheap, and gives you a better part. I haven't ever put it in the resin but don't see why it wouldn't work. Whatever you add whether it is a filler like the powder or colorant - add it to one side of the resin (A or B ) and then mix the A and B together. It gives you more time for pouring. Regarding heating the mold - I do it when I want to make sure a hard to cure resin like some of the soft resins are being used. If you heat up the mold for your regular resin it speeds up the cure. I like to give my molds more time to de-air by extending the cure. I store my resin on the basement floor to keep it cool! I have never used Alumilite's resin but I have never been tempted to try it due to everything I have heard about it. I use a brand that my local supplier repackages and I have about a 3 minute pot life for fresh resin and cooler temps. Mustanglover, you just have to start pouring and get your hands in it. As you can tell there are lots of opinions and techniques and there are also lots of different resins. There are at least 10 different ways that will work well. You just have to figure out what works for you. You will make mistakes and waste rubber and resin. WE all did and even someone like myself (have been casting since 1980) still makes the occasional boo-boo. Good luck!

Here we have Ole and Lena jokes. (Dumb Scandinavian humor - Oops! That's oxymoronic!)

It's like your air conditioning bill.

As long as something more than removing it from the box was done it qualifies as a model made out of zinc! I still remember the bad old days when I could not enter my white metal 1/43rds in IPMS because they were not "plastic".

With Global Warming you may get your wish without moving!!!

Great Job, Marty! I saw it at Milwaukee NNL and Toledo last year and enjoyed it very much. That car was also one of my favorites. It's hard to not like Beetles of any description. Perry's makes a very nice resin body which also comes with a few conversion parts to help adapt a Polar Lights chassis. It's very good quality.

That is really impressive! very cool project!

Cool ifea and well done model! I would like to see a Black Widow Rambler!

That is so wacked out! I mean sick! And I hate to actually say it - Off the Hook!!!!

That is very stylish and well done! I like it.

Au contraire! My fine feathered freind! The 917 is the baddest Sports racer ever screwed together! The 956/962 may have been more successful and longer lived but it ain't as bad! It's at least my favorite! I have at least one of every 1/24th kit except for the the Profil and Lemans kits which are duplicate efforts of available Fujimi or Fisher kits. Still waiting on a PA and then I will be good to go! Also I believe some of the 917s had gray painted interiors. Gulf, Martini and Austria had varying practices for different items. Gulf painted the frames black while Austria and Martini left them in Natural metal, etc. etc. The restored cars are every which way and make no sense. Nice job! That Fujimi kit is a joy to build.

They do make non-fogging superglues! Also the fresher the glue is the less chance of it fogging. Ventilation helps too. Buy the good superglue from the hobby shop not the cheezy stuff from the check out counter! An extra buck or two will save much heartache later on. White glue ( Crystal Clear or Elmers) is great for a number of things as long as it isn't too structural. I always use crystal clear on windows and other clear parts. I hardly ever use 5 minute epoxy any more. It is a good product and I used to use it a lot but my model building evolved and I only use it once every other year now! I actually do use JB Weld once in a while - strongest glue in my glue arsenal!

I missed sketchpad, too. I hope it was temporary. I hope nothing bad happened to Jairus - like getting a job.

A good quality super-glue would do the job for you. A little bit of accelerator would help out also. If you are gluing unpainted parts I would suggest brushing on liquid glue. The tube glues are nasty - I haven't used any in 30 years.