kennb

thank you....I have been having a lot of fun doing this build.

Thank you...thae hardest part is now happening,,,the fine tuning and final details. I am redoing the wheels since i did not like them and they were too small for this beast,,

Part 4 of the history of this car: The SA had its biggest setback just ten days before the launch of the model was due, when a new sporting saloon was announced by SS Cars of Coventry. MG had never considered this company to be any threat to them in the past, as they were not producing cars to compete in the same market sector. SS also did not have any competition successes worthy of note, however, this new car, the first to bear the Jaguar name, was a far more serious rival. William Lyons, the owner of SS cars was a brilliant designer from the same mould as Kimber, he also made all the major decisions, which meant that the Jaguar SS went straight into production, unlike the floundering Nuffield group which took until early 1936 to decide on the specification and supply the parts for the SA. With the initial publicity long since forgotten, it was over 6 months since the introduction of the model before the MG Two Litre went into full production. This delay was due also to Abingdon trying to uprate the specification to improve its standing against the Jaguar. The car initially had a 2062 cc engine and this was increased to 2288 cc's to match the Jaguars 2663 cc unit. Normally this sort of alteration to the specification would have taken a matter of days when Abingdon were dealing direct with suppliers and were doing their own design work. It took months for the Morris engines division to change the specification as they saw it as a relatively unimportant job. As a direct result many disillusioned customers, over 500 in all, who had been waiting for their cars, changed their orders to the Jaguar s'S which was ready for immediate delivery. I have gotten a lot of the exterior details worked on now. Some updated photos as it sits now. I have the radiator and grill shell mounted now. Things are starting to come together nicely. The fender ribs are a little heavy and will bo worked down a little. They are an important part of the overall design. I have almost 250 photos in photobucket. The link is above. Kenn

Great application of thermal forming clear for the glass....

I have the interior side panels completed so now to some of the details on the body. I made up a mounting bracket for the bumper and driving lights. I added some of the details on the fenders and running boards along with the driving light cans and bumper....Things are coming along.. Thank you for looking and all the comments.. Kenn

You are totally correct about the sanding. There is a lot of that to do yet. They key to a good finish is sanding,,,,sanding,,,,,,sanding,,,,,and when you think you are done sand more..

I went through and pinned the fenders in the front and back. Now they stay in place they way they need to for assembly. I also have a update photo on all the parts made so far. the assembly is now solid and stays together with out and glue or tape. Progess I skip around alot as I think of things that should be done. I end up with going back and fine tuning parts or adding a little detail here or there. The rear fender welting is one example. I thought this would add to the overall appearence and decided a little .20 strip along the inside edge would add to the final look. thank you again for all those that are following me with this project. I still have to finish then interior and some exterior details.Will have part 4 of the history in one of the next posts. Kenn

The interior door panels have been a problem since there are very very photos of an origional. I did fond some but they dont seem to be the same so I picked one that appealed to me. There is a lot of wood inide so I have to make that seperate. To get two pieces that are the same I tack glueed the finished piece to flat stock and used it as a pattern to make a reverse piece for the other side. The finished side panel and window surrounds thanks you for all the encouragement and those that look on. I hope that you find some little thing you can use. At this point I am about half done before I can really start to get any paint on it. Be patient, we will get there.. Kenn

Richard Have you tryed using the plastic that things come packaged in? It is a thin thermal plastic that will bend with heat. You just have to be carefull because not much heat is needed before it goes bonkers.... Kenn

very nice build,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Finally got back to the interior. The seats are done now. I used .20 square plastic for the beading and rounded it off after it was in place. The tufting was done with ,20 applied and sanded to shape. Additional pictures of these are on photobucket. linked earlier in the thread. Thank you all for looking and commenting. The comments help in creating a better model and thread. Kenn

Thank you for the additional information. This process you show can be used to make new windshields or back glass. The shapes you can do are limited only by your imaginations and molds you make up. Kenn

now the front fits together the way is should. the fenders are solid with the body and goes together the same each time so fitting everything works out nicely. I am very pleased that I tore it apart and rebuilt the ineer fenders and pinned it together. I will be using more pins as i put things together before painting. they are the way to go. The second side went to gether a lot nicer than the first. I may take the mudded side out and redo it. I will see how it works out. I so dont like using fillers on the bodies. This shows the battery that I made in the battery box on the cowel, very crude but does the job. After paint and wiring it will show very nicely. Kenn

I have not been happy with how the front fenders fit and how I had them mounted so to tore it apart and rethought the mounting so they would fit precisely the same way each time. so I started with the base pinned to the frame. The base was then trimed to fit the hood and frame where I needed the fender inner panel to fit. Note that it also pinned the running board part to the body so that dimension remaines the same all the time. Now I can set the fender to get a basic idea of the space i needed for the inner panel. The inner panel is formed with the heating and molding and now it is roughed out, I will be sanding and filling to smooth it out. Now it fits properly and mount securly to the frame like it should. It now fits the right way and with the front tires in place is very solid and repeatable for the next car. Thank you for the comments and looking. I hope that some of the things I am doing help out in some way to help you in your model building. I do everything with simple tools and have no machine shop to make perfect parts. I am shooting mostly for the flavor of the car and the little details I make up provide to make it appear as massive as this car is. I was watching a show on Margret Thatcher the other night and they had one of these cars in a few scenes. Kenn

This is very similar to vacuum forming parts,without the equipment. You can do this forming of parts with things you have around the house already. Now, lets do a practical application of this method by making a formed rear end for a car, With a few simple steps we have a simple credible rear end all done for you car. the only other part you need is the plastic tube for the axel housing, Kenn

A quick shot of the interior start. The seats are all hollow heat formed backs and made with .40 and .20 plastic. More to come on them. Seat tracks are in place so I came get the height correct. Thank you for the comments and for looking. I would put something in the scartch thread but since I scratch build everything and use no commercial parts. I try to add progress pictures everyday the model is about 2 days ahead of the pictures. I now have about 200 pictures on the photobucket link. I dont post all the pictures i have on photobucket. Kenn

The bell housing has been formed by heating the plastic and forming with a bottle cap for the female mold and the handle to a exacto wood holder for the male mold. I added some bits just so it is more interesting even though you probably will not see them on the completed model. water lines have been added to the front also. Thank you for looking. Kenn

Looks like a interesting project

Some additional detail photos. thank you for the comments and looking Kenn

Thank you for the comments. I have been working on the chassis and have the fuel tank done and located, the rear jacks in place,(this car had built in jacks that woulf totally lift the car off the tires), and the rear floor pan in place. I also have almost 200 photos on my photobucket page that I have a link to below. Thank you for taking the time to view my efforts. link to additional photos http://s126.beta.photobucket.com/user/shutter-bug/library/1936%20MG%20Saloon Kenn

Temp wheels are on.Syance worked about right and jut needs some little tweeking. Thank you for looking Kenn

have the springs roughed out and the front and rear axel built up now. It is starting to come together now. Just have to finish the wheel and get the thing put together for the test assembly to make sure the part are all going to come togehter properly. Kenn

I found that I had to fit the front fenders to the inner fenders before I can do the front suspension. I heat up .20 plastic and started to form the ineer fender by hand and eye. I reheated and formed several times until I had the shape I wanted close to the origional, There is still some additional fitting and reshaping of the hood panels but that may be able to wait for now, I rework things as I go along as more parts are fitted since I negleted to fully look at things before I build them up. I have the same problem on the carberators in as they ended up too high to clear the hood so I will have to rework them. That is one of the things that happen when you have no drawings to go by and only eyeballing off the photos. Things are close enough for most people looking at them and it serves the purpose to give a credable model. Kenn

Time to get to the suspension but have to get some wheels fo this.Checked the read axel and had to remove a cross member to relocate it. on to the wheels. I used an empty tape enter for the molds to make the solid wheels out of 1/4" stripps aboit 13 1/2" long colied inside. After some sanding they are starting to look like wheels. Need to make some temporary centers until I can make up the wire rims for it. Thank you for looking. Kenn

Front sheet metal is complete and ready for the paint shop. I added some detailing to the radiator and top of the hood. Not quite true to the car but I think it needed some details that were common to the period. Thank you for looking and commenting. Kenn