James W

There is this drawer at his house... but you would have to get past Max, the security cat.

When you turn the bottle over to paint the bottom, water runs on your paint job.

Nice Rod! You made my day! There are so many possibilities with weathering. I had not thought of painting over the BMF to that extent. It looks great. You must have trimmed the quarter panels at the top seams. BMF does not like complex curves. It has been so cool going to GSL, the exchange of ideas is fantastic, and meeting new people. I'm glad you liked the Pontiac. There are some pictures of it on the forum. Search under 'Spy Shots' last Feb.

If you use old bottles as paint stands, be sure to dry them inside and out! Doh!! :roll:

Some 'stupid tuner wheels' have the valve stem inside the center cap that covers the lug nuts. You can just tell people that is where you put them. "Let's not and say we did." stikes again!

I like your tip. I've done it myself a few times. Sometimes however the 'fuzzies' and the keeper plastic is very close to the same size and you risk melting the whole thing. Try sanding the back side with fine sandpaper. Work it like a paint job, 400,600,1200, etc. You will probably find the fuzzies get very small and go away. I still like your tip. It's easier. 8)

Great thread Bill I just realized that from the side the model dose not look like it has opening doors. You got those seems real tight. It's been fun watching this car come togather, especially having seen it at SLC.

I worked with an artist who did CNC machine work from designs submitted by the manufacturer of electronic products. He would get CAD data and use it to create machine code to cut three dementional parts. There was an incredible amount of work that had to go into changing the information to translate digital data into three dementional objects. It is a matter of interpretation. He was working with 1:1 all the time. Now imagine that the object you are making is a fraction of the size of the original. The slightest change in dimension is multiplied by 25. This can lead to gross errors that can barely be measured or quantified but are sure obvious in the end product. Also the complexity of making a model involves hundreds of people in diverse disciplines, time lines, financing. The molds themselves are rarely designed and cut by the same people. The perfect model has never been made, don't hold your breath. By the time an error has been identified the snow ball could be at the bottom of the hill. If production time and shipping are already in place, and financing is dependant on a sell date, the product could be forced out the door just to save the project. I don't want to make excuses. I'm just a realist. If a model company dose not have all their ducks in a row at the right point in time, then the product is a flop. That makes the next flock of ducks look more intimidating.

Great tip. 8) It occured to me looking at your pics that the same could be accomplished by putting a spacer between two steel cut off blades. The ones I use are about .005 thick. I get them at Coastal. Make the spacer out of sheet Styrene of the desired thickness. The thin blades should cut down on heat build-up and the amount of plastic being cut. That means we can chop tops even FASTER. Now, how to speed up the finish work. :roll:

OK, so am I the only one who noticed that Tulsa Police come in Small, Medium and Large? Sorry, I could not let it go.

I know of a car. Over a 50 year period it raced, cruised, and idled. All the owners kids and a foreign visitor learned to drive in it. It traversed paved roads and dirt. It watched the Interstate Highway system be built traveling through many states. Once tired it was repainted and upholstered. Twice tired it spent time stored in garages, barns and finally a tent. Now it awaits its rebirth. I wonder which car had more fun?

Thanks Olle, this is the same problem I was having. The Squ. Wt. putty forms a skin almost instantly and balls up instead of spreading. I'm only talking about small sink holes and surface fills. I'll try the Tanex. Sometimes it dose not pay to mix a batch with a catalist for a cubic millimeter of putty. On the subject of catalyzed fillers, I went to the local paint store and told them what I do and what I needed. 5 minutes and three clerks later I was talking to a guy who knows his product. For ten bucks I got a tube of Dolphin Glaze by U-POL. It is very thin, a self leveling finish glaze. What sold me besides the price was that it contains 20% styrene. It seems to work well and sticks to the bodywork. I'll tell you in ten years if it still holds up.

That is just plain coool! 8) 8) 8) One question, how did you handle the matter/anti-matter engine mounts???

They have there quirks, but the Nova and Bonny are nice kits. The Nova body is accurate, interior builds on a platform like most newer AMT stuff. The engine looks good also, it dosen't have the odd tranny like the Monte Carlo. Lots of super detail stuff like seperate frame peices. For $21 its a good deal. You won't find it cheaper. The Bonny bubble top is a little short, but the convertible versions of these cars are very nice.

I like it! 8) Nice choice of body. Looks mean! 8)

Nice build. I like the outdoor shot. Did you have WIP pics posted?

Thanks for the compliments guys. Charlie, the 62 Fury is an old build so I don't have any other pics right now. I shaved some side trim and center tail lights. It's a curbside. Jody, this was a quick build while I was convalescing this week. It has no interior. The kit is excellent and I will be building more. Interiors will have to come later.

Just finished my camper trailer. I started with the new RMC kit, as seen in Model Cars #123, using the kit as a template. Evergreen corrugated sheet was used to construct it as if it were a home built unit. The door panel was cut out and turned 90 degrees for visual appeal. A thin piece of aluminum forms a gutter over the door. Evergreen half round keeps the rain out of the joint between the top and sides. The frame is .060 square Evergreen. The side rails and tongue braces are one continuous piece cut part way through and bent at the front of the box. The tongue itself is rectangular for strength. The teardrop window is from the Revell van detail parts kit. (Thought I’d never get rid of that stuff!) Rear fenders from Revell 37 Panel are slightly different from the Pick-up kit. Either would work just fine. AMT 29 Ford wheels ride a brass square tube axle. Parts box trailer springs hold it to the frame. Let me know what you think of this neat new kit!

Wow :shock: I thought I got lucky when I bought a one owner 55 Chev! It is amazing what hides behind a garage door sometimes. And if that garage door is behind a hedgerow, the surprise is multiplied.

Andy did a great overview of these topics. May I suggest you look up the current NHRA rule book on-line for very specific information. More than you may want to know. Historical info could be gleaned from some of the Hot Rod Magazine drag race annuals from years gone by.

Perhaps to see why Gregg went home you needed to see the bar through beer goggles?

When I go to my LHS and ask about a new kit, he immediately gets on the phone to his distributor. They then give him a blank stare over the phone. :roll:

It was great to see you and your whole family at GSL. I enjoyed seeing them there. Gregg has been bragging about your work and it's good to see he was not exaggerating. Your work is truley awsome!

Chas, Congrats on your win! I could tell it ment alot to you, you deserved it. Keep building for your own pleasure and I 'm sure we'll be seeing more high caliber work from you.

I like the chopped down cab. It gives the engine prominence. A good looking truck. 8) How about some wooden amo boxes to justify the bed. Just an idea.