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mrm

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Everything posted by mrm

  1. Thank you Pierre. Gilles was something else. Perhaps the last of the true gentlemen-drivers. In contrast I can't stand his son. This model is meant to be built as it raced at Germany after Gilles' death and Pironi's accident, when Andretti and Tambay filled in for them to finish the season. However the kit's decals have options for Imola and Long Beach and then an additional little piece for the German GP, where pretty much the only difference are the names. The kit I have to work with is missing the front wing. But then Villeneuve raced at Iola without front wing. And it was his last race which he dominated until his teammate stabbed him in the back, which ultimately may have led to his death. Also from what I understand the only surviving all original 126 C2 is chassis 061, which this kit actually represents, which is also the car Gilles used at Imola. I am in the process researching what I am actually going to model right now, which sometimes is harder than building the model. There are million pictures of 126 C2s both from the races in period and of cars in our days. Figuring out which is what and from what race is the real challenge, as there are quite few differences between them. Most likely tho, I'm going with Villeneuve's Imola race.
  2. Thank you.I figured CA or Epoxy would be the go to glues. I was wondering if there were benefits to soldering stuff and any tips on that. I'll probably stick to glueing things together. I would only assume that soldering brass and steel to white metal and each other in this small of a scale would require different fluxes, different solders and different temperatures. And reinventing my hobby and going down the rabbit whole of researching all sorts of materials and tools and then learning how to use them is not something I had in mind when I thought "challenge accepted" with this kit. Unless of course I have no choice.
  3. I am missing some major components. For example entire one half of the induction exhaust system of the engine. That is one intake, one turbo, one intercooler, one exhaust and all the turbos-to intercoolers plumbing. Also missing is the transmission oil cooler and some other details, like parts for rear shocks, both mirrors and the fluids reservoirs in the nose. If you have experience with these kits, what is the best way to attach parts together? I mean like the thick brass etched parts to the white metal monocoque for example. We are not talking tiny brass parts going into a hole in the white metal part, but a rather large brass plate going flat on a large white metal surface. I'm afraid that if I heat the brass enough to bond it will melt the white metal completely. There are few parts that are getting attached brass to brass, which totally make sense to be soldered, but the white metal kinda freaks me out.
  4. My point is that would much rather see one all new tool every other year, than two reissues every quarter. Especially when the reissues have been redone to death over the past half a century and are not improved in any way.
  5. Looking back in the last few years building models, I noticed somewhat of a pattern of my building, which I never gave much of a thought in the past. Basically I always followed two constant lines. The first one going a familiar path and building my usual subjects of hot rods or the occasional sports car. The second is taking on a subject that is somewhat out of my comfort zone and getting obsessive over it. I enjoyed building Niki Lauda's 1:12 Ferrari from Tamiya, but spent more time searching for pictures of the real car and researching the Ferrari 312T than actually building the model. My personal favorite driver of all time is the Canadian Gilles Villeneuve and the 1/20 Fujimi model of the Ferrari he lost his life in was a natural choice for a follow up build. After doing those two cars in vastly different sizes, but attempting similar detail level, I reached some conclusions with mixed feelings. Mainly that building a Formula 1 car in high detail besides, skill, time, patience, tools also costs a lot of money and there is no way around it. There is plenty of aftermarket companies out there making kit specific detail sets just like many aftermarket generic bits and pieces. Nobody wants to spend four digit amounts on MFH kits but when all is set and done, if you want super-detailed results it will cost you the same whether you buy a MFH kit with everything in it or get a good deal on Tamiya 1/20 model and add everything to i . My most recent crazy obsessive project was the Pagani Huayra from Aoshima, which had photo etched parts I added surpassing the price of the kit with the amount of decals on it doubling that cost. I followed by the very first Mustangs I've ever built in two of the three colors I hate to work with the most. Those builds were also my very first experience with 3D printed parts. So it was time for something new I've never tried. Every year right around my birthday there is the only model car show/contest that I know of in Tennessee. The IPMS Middle Tennessee Model-Con in Murfreesboro. Altho the show this year was...well, let's just say it left a ton to be desired and raised quite few eyebrows. And that is me being as PC as I can. Not for lack of some great models or attendees either. But anyway, that's not the subject of this post. The vendors presence, altho having some familiar faces and some truly great people was not what I would call great. But if you had few bucks burning a hole in your pocket, one could manage to blow them. This being 4 days before my birthday and having my wife with me created an opportunity both from bargaining and budgeting stand point, if you know what I mean. I met a great gentleman, who was obviously selling kits from his personal stash no longer needed. Mostly Japanese kits and we were able not only to enjoy some great conversation, but also strike some deals, graciously "sponsored" by my wife. That's when I saw a red plastic box with a familiar yellow logo with a horsey under it's clear lid. When I asked what was it, I was told it is one of those projects that would make me pull my hairs, question my sanity and make me want to quit the hobby. Now he really had my attention. It is a fully detailed kit of the Ferrari 126 C2, comprising of about 220 (yes two hundred and twenty) parts made from white metal, aluminum and photo etch on various metals. All in 1:43rd scale. That means that the entire wheel/tire assembly of seven pieces (yes each wheel is 6 pieces of aluminum and photoetch) is about the size of a Hot Rod headlight. But - challenge accepted! Some of these parts can be glued, while others I believe would have to be soldered. Either way, I'm in. And I have the intention to detail this thingy as much as I can. It will be fully wired and plumbed, as long as I survive it without losing my mind. So I invite everyone to join me on my journey down Crazy Lane. I have never built one of these kits, so any advise, pointers, tricks or critiques are greatly appreciated. I already know that there are some major parts missing, so on top of everything, there will be some creativity and scratchbuilding involved, but so far I have faith that I would be able to produce a decent model of one of my all time favorite F1 cars.
  6. I can think of at least 30 different cars I would consider better choice investing on a new tooling to make before another Galaxie. From any manufacturer.
  7. How about Revell make a proper 32 Ford pick up based on their other 32s and then they can put whatever bike they want with it. It can be a Simson for all I care as long they actually make a somewhat new hot rod instead of one that has been build by everyone and their cousins going six generations back.
  8. Famous last words! 🤪
  9. That's one mean chop. I love it.
  10. This is not clear coat related. The clear did exactly what it was supposed to do, which is stick to the color. There was simply no adhesion between the color and primer. This is achieved one of two ways- mechanically or chemically. Chemically is when the color is applied before the primer is 100% cured and therefore the two "fuse". This is tricky with yellow, as it will require multiple thin coats of paint right before the previous one is fully cured. Or you can create mechanical grip, by roughing up the primer underneath. This is easily achieved by simply sanding it right before painting the color on, with something like 600 or 800 grid. The most common mistake people make is to let the primer cure for days or weeks, then basically polish it super smooth, then let it sit even longer and then spray thin coats that don't affect it. And you have very weak bond between the color and primer. Which is why I sand my primer with 600, then spray a good coat of color and then if necessary sand it with higher grid, before adding more color.
  11. I am in very similar place guys. I was going to finish it on time, but my truck crapped out with its front right brake caliper failing, so I spent all my time arguing with the dealership (they definitely screwed something up) and then trying to fix it and dealing with family stuff. Basically life decided it had different plans for me. I am however going to finish it, meeting deadline or not. And I would strongly encourage everyone else to do the same. The deadlline was just a motivational tool, but I don't want it to backfire and have the opposite effect.
  12. That makes sense, as I had never seen them before. I was almost positive they did not come from any kit, but still I had to ask. I am trying to finish mine before the weekend.
  13. Thank you Brian. The interior was fun. Detail painting that rear not so much, but I like the end result.
  14. That's one really nice Deuce, Scott. You can never go wrong with red on '32 Ford, no matter the body style. I like how you kept the interior red too. I actually quite like that. My Sedan was supposed to be originally full fendered and Ferrari Red, but the plans changed dramatically. If you don't mind telling, where did these headers came from, that you have on your motor? I think they are perfect for street rods as they clear any engine mounts and come together at the back of the motor where you have the most room under the hoods.
  15. I just made a thread in "Under Glass" for it. Please guys, post all your finished work here:
  16. A lot of people are asking in the WIP section if there is going to be a thread to put all the completed models in. So here it is. Please post only pictures of the complete models and include a link to a wip thread if you have one.
  17. Very sharp build. I love what you've done with the interior.
  18. I think I'm due for a yellow one. My top three most hated colors to paint are white, yellow and silver. I just completed a white and a silver car just last month, so next one should be yellow. LOL
  19. Deadline was moved to the 13th of November. Hence the lucky number on my engine.
  20. And a little sneak peak of the engine and the rear end. YES, YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE THE BRAKE PADS WHICH WERE PAINTED SEPARATE COLOR
  21. Thank you, Jim. Glad you like them. Feel free to use any ideas you see. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. That's the idea of a forum, no?
  22. Yesterday I did a lot of work on my interior. Actually I made most of it. And I managed to paint my body, but on the third coat these weird fibers magically appeared in my paint at a very visible pot on the roof. Like ultra fine spiderwebs. So the body was left to dry so it could be sanded. Meanwhile back to the interior. The dash got filled in and the column drop gor carved out like the engine mounts on the frame. This whole build is about making a very modern and very custom high tech street rod, while trying to maintain somewhat traditional character with lots of attitude. Mixing old with new doesn't always work, but I'm having fun with it. So I wanted to leave a nod to the old school interiors in my modern saloon. So I designed a couple of "spears" out of thin sheet styrene and overlaid them over the tuck'n roll of the stock interior. Then to all the edges and creases I added thin .25 round stock styrene to create more detail, while in the middle I used a styrene "C-channel" for a character line, which I bent to create a door pull. The floor received similar treatment with the same character line in the middle. After I painted it, I added flocking, leaving the piping I made earlier visible in the contrasting camel color. The center console received the shifter from the Rat Roaster and around the booth there is a photo etched trim ring, which was painted gold. I painted the door panels in the same scheme and you even get a sneak peak of the color. I have the dash painted, but need to add the instruments to it. The door panels need their interior handles and the floor needs some pedals. I still have not figured out what to do for a steering wheel. I want something cool with a retro vibe, but definitely not old. Steam-punky kinda. But other than that, my interior is pretty much done. Now it's engine time!!!
  23. Well, in other news from around the world. my interior is almost ready. That's about 30 additional pieces of styrene stock, cut out. bent to shape and glued to make a custom interior mixing something old with something new.
  24. Everyone building blue Deuces. Guess what? My 32 sedan will be blue too.
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