Harry P.

I've been using BMF for over 20 years, probably more, and I have never "sealed" it under clear. There's no reason to do so. Normal handling of a model will have absolutely no effect on properly applied BMF. It's aluminum foil! A little handling isn't going to rub it off... and besides, spraying clear over the top of it does absolutely nothing to make the foil stick any better to whatever it's been applied to. The clear topcoat isn't having any affect whatsoever on the foil's bond with what's underneath it.

A little superglue should take care of that...then a light sanding, reassembly and you're good to go...

Nope, no $$$ coming in today... just going out!!! Final vote 41-14 REAL... and you guys are right! It's real. I thought a lot more of you would be fooled... this looked very "modelish" to me, but I guess you guys were too smart for this one! Next ROM coming Monday!!!

Thank you, gentlemen...

Ken, I agree... this is getting a little silly. (Chuck, I call a truce with you too). I've stated my opinion, everyone else has stated theirs. End of "discussion." Thanks to Tim for his efforts on this subject. I'll just keep the old trap shut on this topic from now on...

You are obviously totally unfamiliar with me, and have no idea what I believe, or how I believe this forum should operate. I have no problem with anyone posting their opinions here, whether I agree with them or not. This is an open forum, and all opinions are welcome, hell, even encouraged. There is no "right" or "wrong" opinion, but I do take offense when a forum member belittles another forum member's opinion as "crying like a girl scout." You have every right to post your thought here, as do I. You don't like my opinion? No problem... please feel free to offer your counterpoint any time. In fact, I would hope that you do so, and encourage you to add your thoughts any time. But let's keep things adult here, and skip the name calling, ok?

I'm just expressing my opinion, exactly as you have done. Pointless? Maybe so, in the overall scheme of things. Obviously my opinion isn't going to change any minds at Revell, especially after the fact... and maybe I won't even change anyone's mind here on the forum. But my opinion on the subject is no more or less pointless than yours... no? You get your say, I get mine... that's how we do things here.

Peter, just to refresh your memory...

Excuse me, but I assume we all still have the right to post our opinions here. I hardly equate stating my opinion to "bawling like a girl scout." You have your opinion, I have mine... and neither is "better" or more valid than the other. So how about you can the wise cracks? I believe that I have every right to opine on the "exigencies of Revell's product planning." That's what a forum is all about.

How in the world do you figure that? A '32 Ford street rod kit that also included the parts to build the car stock would "most assuredly" have killed the kit? Huh??? Man, I don't know what Kool-aid you're drinking, but I flat out DO NOT see how the option of a stock build would have "killed" a '32 Ford street rod kit...

No, no, no!!!! Nobody ever said "factory stock ONLY"!!! What was said was, it would be nice if the kits included the parts necessary to build the car factory stock. So if Revell or whoever wants to issue a '32 Ford "street rod" kit... fine! Great! No problem! But would it have killed them to include a factory stock option??? That's the point us "factory stock guys" have tried to make here...

So do you vacation in "southern Canada" then? I hear the weather down there is real nice... Hey... if you lived in Barrow, Alaska, ALL of Canada would be south of you...

Agreed! Why do they make boneheaded mistakes like that? Does anyone look at things before it goes into production? BTW... nice job on the model!

Nice job on the Ferrari! All the details look just right...

That's where it gets tricky. There's a difference between a "real" rat rod and a car that's intentionally made to look like a "real" rat rod. "Real" rat rods were never called "rat rods"... they were "hot rods", and they were built by combining cheap, easy-to-find parts from other cars, the junkyard, etc. There was no attempt to create a "rat rod" look. The look was just a byproduct of how the car was built... a collection of mismatched bits and pieces, sometimes from several different makes/models of cars. Nowadays, we have a whole new subculture of "rat rods" that are intentionally made to look as if they were put together randomly from junk parts. It's sort of like a "counterfeit" rat rod. Yes, they're real cars, but they are being created to look like "rat rods" on purpose. For example, the welds on the chopped top are left raw, not because the builder didn't have the time or money to bother with them (like a "real" hot rodder might have done it), but because that's the "look" a rat rod is "supposed" to have. It's a whole different intent from the builder. Maybe it's splitting hairs, but I think there's a difference between a real, old-school hot rod and a new, "made to look old" rat rod.

No '32 Ford ever came with cupholders. That was back in the day, before the "wussification" of America... when men were still men and didn't have to "stay hydrated" whenever they drove somewhere...

The whole point of a "rat rod" is that it's totally made up. There are no rules, there is no logic. It's all about fitting together a bunch of unrelated parts and somehow making it work. Use your imagination... that's how it's done... BTW... I don't think there's ever been a rat rod so "evolved" as to actually use a transfer case. That level of engineering would kind of go against the spirit of a rat rod...

Need more information to make a judgement... BTW... what's up with a guy from Canada saying "y'all"??? Aren't you a bit too far north to be speaking "suthern"???

The actual color you get with pearls (and all translucent paints) depends on the base color. ANY base color will work, and give you a different final color. For example, shooting silver pearl over white will give you a much different color than shooting it over black. Neither is "right" or "wrong"... it's a matter of what you want the final result to be. And the best way to see what the final result will be is to do the "spoon test". Get a box of white plastic spoons at the grocery store, spray various base colors on the spoons, cover each of them with the pearl silver and see which you like the best.

Nothing much to add to your glue question... the guys covered it. But I will say this: if you like this site, check out the magazine!!!

Don't be fooled by the background. Never underestimate the power of Photoshop, grasshopper...

The interior looks great!

As long as you're ok with the government telling you what models to produce...

Jim is right... sometimes the 1:1 part has a seam. Those ducts would probably be molded plastic in real life, just as they are in the model... so the real thing would have a mold seam.

Not "fake." "Model."