Harry P.

I agree with Peter. Live and learn. Fletch is absolutely correct in his observations. All flatheads have the distributor in front, and they only have 3 exhaust ports per side (the middle two are combined into one). Fletch could have been a little "gentler" in his comments, but what he says is correct. Don't take it as negative criticism, though. Whenever any of us post up photos of our models, we open ourselves up to the comments of the rest of us. That's the whole point. Get feedback from the group, and learn how to become a better modeler. None of us here is that good that we can't learn something from the rest of us from time to time. So take the comments as "constructive criticism", as I'm sure Fletch meant them that way. Hey, we're all members of the same family here. And we can all learn from each other. Overall, I think you did a fantastic job with this model. And now that you've learned a thing or two about flatheads, your next one will be that much better! Thanks for posting, and we all look forward to your next project...

So in scale... about 50 sheets of paper? Let's see... that's about 1/4 inch. Good luck!!!

Hmmmm... it must be kind of noisy to drive, with the front axle dragging on the ground. And the sparks!!!

Holy excrement!!! That's beee-yooo-tiful!

I want it!!!!

I agree, 2K for both, buy them. Get them fixed up to the point where they run reliably and have fun driving them. But restoration? Top to bottom, bumper to bumper? I guarantee you it will cost several times more than even your highest "guesstimate". Like Mark said, resto parts ain't cheap. And when you consider what it's going to cost to rebuild a car by buying everything part by part, even if you do ALL the labor yourself (highly unlikely), you'll more likely than not wind up with a car that's worth less than you spent on restoration. A decent paint job alone will run you several grand if you want a quality job, not an Earl Scheib special. How many times have we seen an ad that reads something like this: "For sale, $20,000 OBO, restored, $40K in restoration, too much to mention." My rule of thumb: If you want an old car, buy one already restored. That way the previous owner(s) took the financial hit. And you've saved yourself months, if not years, of aggravation and money spending. Just my 2 cents...

I'd say drill the corresponding holes on the inner fenders, and "fake" the plates with pieces of BMF. It's so thin it won't interfere with the hood closing. If you shoot some flat clear over the foil before you cut out the pieces you can knock down the shine a bit and make it look more like the real thing. You could even forget about drilling real holes and just simulate the holes with a dot from a black sharpie...

Looks great! Nothing but good things to say about the model. Now, if you could learn how to focus your camera...

I want the kind of friends you have...

What do all those DZUS fasteners on the hood fasten to??? Just a minor detail. Your model looks pretty good to me! The gold paint looks great too.

Apparently everything also pointed to "real" on the last few...

You guys have been getting beat lately! Let's see how you do this time. Real or model? The answer REAL!

If you want accuracy, the best way to do it is to measure the 1:1. But don't feel too bad if you don't get it exactly right. The kitmakers themselves are all over the place when it comes to scale accuracy. They're supposedly "professionals" and they can't even get it right sometimes.

If you had a photo of a side view of the car, and you knew the wheelbase was, say, 116 inches on the real car, you could measure the wheelbase in the photo, do some simple math and figure out exactly what "scale" the photo was, and extrapolate the other dimensions. But you would need an exact, dead-on side view (or top view or front or rear view)... no perspective at all, as that would make the conversions impossible. But that has nothing to do with any computer software, it's just simple math.

Short answer: No. There's no such thing as "magic" software that will produce all sorts of information based on inputting a scan. It doesn't exist.

I had one, bought it new in 1984. It looked exactly like this: Pretty fast car... until the turbo fried. And then the clutch cable snapped. And then I sold it!!!

That's not the price, that's the point at which the bidding starts! Who knows what the final winning bid will be... or if it will even sell at all?

You might try double-sided tape instead of glue... no cleanup necessary.

http://www.modelcargarage.com/store/pc/vie...p;idproduct=184 For the belts themselves you can use thin ribbon, as mentioned, or strips of masking tape, painted any color you like.

Scribe them in by dragging the back side of an exacto blade, using some sort of guide (straightedge, french curve, etc.) depending on the shape of the line(s) you want. Don't try to cut the line all in one stroke, it'll take several passes. Small radius corners are best done freehand, but again, don't try to cut the groove all in one stroke. Keeping the lines clean, sharp and straight requires patience and practice. Definitely practice on an old scrap body before you go trying this on a good body.

That's a 1/9 kit by Revell. I bought it years ago. I found this photo of the box online:

I love Photoshop!!!

Chop it! With the section, the top looks too tall. Cut that sucker down!

There are a lot of stories floating around as to what exactly happened to all the JoHan tooling, the most common one is that all the tooling was "lost". Make of that what you will. But you can bet that if it still existed, somebody somewhere would have brought JoHan back to life a long time ago.

Thanks!