Harry P.

Thanks!

Ok... so the clear hoods were for display only. You never could buy an Olds with a clear hood.

Just out of curiosity... why is the, uh, "compartment" so tall?

Two questions... 1. What does that mean? 2. How did you type in Cyrillic? Edit: Never mind, I found out how... http://russian.typeit.org/

(said in my best Cowardly Lion voice)... Aw shucks... I'm blushing...

Agree 100%. Covering a 1/24 scale seat with anything like paper, leather, vinyl, etc, is a real chore to begin with. Getting it down and snugged into all the crevices and having it stay down and doing all that without wrinkles and getting a realistic end result is just way too much hassle. You can get a much more realistic scale leather look with a whole lot less work using paint in various levels of gloss, and maybe a black wash to bring out the details.

Do you glow in the dark?

You've missed a lot, then...

There's a very limited use for those. First, you have to buy the kit to get the decals. Second, they are made to fit a model van.

Because there are way more people who would buy a TD kit than the racing scenes kit. The bottom line matters!

Nail salons aren't manufacturers, though. Even if they thought it was a good idea, they wouldn't be the ones to manufacture them. It would have to be a Revlon or Sally Hansen or someone like that... a beauty/personal product manufacturer. Edit: it's already being done: http://fashionista.com/2013/09/covergirl-teams-up-with-nfl-on-fanicure-nail-polish-sets/

Your exactly right, this kit is from Oc Cre. http://www.occre.com/index.php?option=com_productos&task=listcat&id_cat=18&Itemid=30&lang=en I have also built quite a few of their other trams and carriages. I used to buy the kits online at Model Expo, but they seem to now have discontinued carrying them. I guess ebay might be the best choice now: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/occre

The line that this particular model represents uses double-ended cars (two "front ends") that are not turned around. From wikipedia: The California Street (Line 61) line runs east and west on California Street from a terminal at California and Market Streets, close to the famed Embarcadero to Van Ness Avenue. The California street cable-cars use double-ended cars with "grip" levers at either end of the longer cars which are operated in each direction without the cars being turned at the ends of the line, where the double tracks converge into a single "stub-end" track. The other cable car lines use single-ended cars (only one "front end") that must be turned around on turntables at each end of the run.

I know that there are a lot of ways to do a black wash... the Detailer, thinned flat black paint, India ink, etc. Everyone has their own favorite way of doing it. Mine is a "homemade" wash. I can't give you an exact formula, because I just "eyeball" it. It's approx. one part black acrylic craft paint, one part water and one part Future (maybe a bit less on the black paint). If I use only the black paint and water alone, the wash tends to bead up on painted surfaces and doesn't flow well into the nooks and crannies. Adding the Future makes the wash flow nicely and settle into the recesses better.I don't keep a big bottle of it premixed, I mix up small batches as needed.

Here's the rear pump. The gold trim on the rear platform edges, on the pump and on the fire extinguishers is gold BMF. The brass handles on the extinguishers were scratchbuilt of brass rod and sheet styrene, because I thought I lost the kit supplied parts. Of course, after I scratchbuilt the replacements, I found the kit parts... ... but since I had gone to the trouble of scratchbuilding replacements, I used them! At the upper left of the photo you can see the two valve handles are missing... I only have one, the other one is missing. I'll have to scratchbuild the missing one somehow. Also, the hollow vinyl tube supplied in the kit for the extinguisher hoses and various other hoses was way too stiff. I found some soft rubber tubing in the jewelry making aisle of Hobby Lobby that's just the right diameter, has a nice flat black finish, and is very soft and flexible. I also added a black wash to all of the chassis components, like the large nuts you see here on the pump, for example. Adding the wash adds depth to the details and makes the model look a little less like a model and more like the real thing. I also "dirtied" the chassis, all the undercarriage components, and most of the brass-plated parts by spraying them with my old standby, Testors Transparent Black window tint.

The instructions mention gauge face decals, but there were none in the kit... so I had to hand paint the gauge faces. Not an easy job, as the speedometer is maybe 1/4 inch across! The gauge "glass" is clear 5-minute epoxy. The gold trim on the dashboard's edges is gold BMF.

Here you can see my reworked rear brake rods and the extensions on the handbrake assembly I added to reach the face of the frame rail. The holes you see in the frame rails are where the fender mounting brackets will go.

Some progress! This kit is very tedious to build because there are so many small parts that have to be individually cleaned up and painted. And for some reason a lot of parts are molded in halves–for no reason that I can see. They could just as well have been molded in one piece. But because they are split down the middle, that means more parts to clean up and then glue together before painting them as a unit. I have no idea why so many of these parts are molded in two pieces, but that's the way it is. On the plus side, most everything fits perfectly, no reworking or re-engineering of parts needed to get them to fit. However, many of the split parts have no locator pins or any way of positively aligning the halves. You have to line up the halves by eye. And for some reason almost every part has visible ejector pin marks! So a LOT of tedious cleanup on this kit. Here's the chassis so far. Of course, most of the chassis components and detail will never be seen once the bodywork and fenders are in place, but oh well…

The November issue.

Graphic artist... designer... art director... writer... depending on who the client is and what they need.

The chances of commercially manufactured sports team logo decals for model cars are slim to none. But you're always free to make your own...

I guess he himself doesn't know how to spell his own name. It's "Tom" on his official website: http://www.tomdaniel.com/

Remember... do not post hints or answers here! PM me with specific year, make and model. This week's car comes from forum member Ken Stone: The answer: 1970-74 Bolwell Nagari Mk VIII

I think there might have been fewer than that...

Nice, especially under the hood! And bonus points for having mirrors! And an antenna!