Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Harry P.

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    29,071

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Harry P.

  1. Harry P.
    "Over pounder?" You want fries with that?
  2. Harry P.
    Exactly. You create your own problem by adding weight using brass! (don't worry... I'm just yanking your chain)...
  3. Harry P.
    Where's your avatar, pal?
  4. Harry P.
    I wasn't slamming Mark's methods, just asking why. I agree, obviously a soldered brass chassis is stronger than a glued plastic one. But I don't buy the argument that the strength of brass is needed for a model's structural integrity. It's a model... it weighs a few ounces. Nobody is going to ride on it or use it to hold up a wobbly table. I have many 1/8 scale models that are all plastic... built many years ago and still perfectly fine. No sag. I can see using brass as a personal choice; I'm not questioning that. In fact I'm impressed by Mark's craftsmanship and skill. He knows that. I'm just not buying the argument that it's needed.
  5. Harry P.
    Would that make it a police car?
  6. Harry P.
    Old man, take a look at my life, I'm a lot like you... Ooops, not a Chicago song!
  7. Harry P.
    Charlie, Cato was just giving me the business because I said I don't care what color the plastic is, since I paint it anyway. Well... the one time I didn't paint a body is my Pocher Mercedes, and he called me on it! The plastic finish was absolutely perfect! I mean, they must have polished those molds to an absolute flawless finish, because the gloss on that bare plastic body was something I knew I could never duplicate with paint. So I left well enough alone (actually, more than well enough!). Here are a few photos... bare plastic, no paint, no polish, no nothing! Just as it came in the box, believe it or not! Check out the reflection of the spare tire in the second photo. My only regret is that I don't have a Chicago song title to use here in reference to that shiny plastic... Oh wait... Baby, what a big surprise!
  8. Harry P.
    ok, the one exception... Dialogue Part 1 and 2!
  9. Harry P.
    Of course, probably the worst color for a kit to molded in is South California Purples...
  10. Harry P.
    It's really not that important in the overall scheme of things. Probably no higher than maybe... question 67 or 68. But still worthy of a dialogue...
  11. Harry P.
    If it's a present for the old ball and chain, you better get it running before you give it to her!
  12. Harry P.
    All you needed to do was add a category called "other"...
  13. Harry P.
    Of course we could discuss this topic further. This is only the beginning...
  14. Harry P.
    What's the best color for plastic? I've been searching so long... to find an answer.
  15. Harry P.
    1/8.
  16. Harry P.
    Does anybody really care?
  17. Harry P.
    Doesn't matter in the least to me... it all gets painted anyway. No matter what time it is... even 25 or 6 to 4...
  18. Harry P.
    There's a joke in there, but this is a family forum...
  19. Harry P.
    Hmmm, interesting. I don't agree with your logic, but I can understand your viewpoint. And I wasn't trying to shoot down your choices, just wanted to hear why... which I did, so thanks!
  20. Harry P.
    What "priority" treatment? Different topics belong in different places, there's no "priority" treatment. My god, you make it sound as if scrolling down a web page involves hard physical labor or something. Just hit the "page down" key and you're there! For crying out loud, it's not that hard! Really!
  21. Harry P.
    Ok, possibly a stupid question, but here goes anyway. You could have built the chassis using styrene stock. Probably easier, faster, etc. Is there a particular reason that you go the brass/solder route instead? I'm curious, because if if it was me, I'd definitely have gone with styrene and liquid cement vs. brass and solder, because once it's panted, you can never tell the difference. Is working with brass a personal preference for you? Just curious, because like I said, the same results (visually) could have been achieved via a much easier technique, and the end result would have been indistinguishable.
  22. Harry P.
    Don't give up, Bill. If you really apply yourself, you'll get it someday! (and of course I'm kidding. Bill's post is spot on!)
  23. Harry P.
    For things that don't have a specific section. Birthdays. New member intros. Comments about real cars. Whatever. General topics that don't fit into any specific area. A topic regarding info on an upcoming contest, like Tom posted, belongs in... wait for it... the section called Contests and Shows. And I quote: For posting information regarding model contests and shows, and for show coverage. If this isn't clear enough, PM me and I'll explain further.
  24. Harry P.
    Don't take this the wrong way, CG... but nice rack!
  25. Harry P.
    I'd be willing to bet the decals were applied improperly. Soaked in water too long, all the glue soaked off. Like I said, I have models 30+ years old, I've never seen any sign of any decal coming off any model that I've ever built. IMO the practice of clearing to "protect" decals is completely unnecessary. Of course, it's harmless... and if someone sleeps better at night feeling their decals are "protected," more power to 'em. But from my experience, totally unnecessary if the decals were applied correctly in the first place.
×
×
  • Create New...