Harry P.

I know, I probably sound like a raving lunatic... But I see this all the time... otherwise nice models, fully detailed, foiled, polished, even flocked... obviously the builder took time and made an effort... and yet no rearview mirrors, inside or out (most of the time, out). It's sort of a pet peeve of mine. I realize that some kits are missing them, but that's what a parts box is for! Especially on a factory-stock build,

Some people have way more than their fair share of talent!

It was me that put your post about an upcoming contest in the Contest section. I know, crazy, right? Imagine posting info about an upcoming contest in the contest section! What was I thinking??? If "nobody reads the categories at the bottom of the board," that's their loss. Is scrolling down a web page really that physically exhausting that most people just don't have the stamina to do it???

Would you build a model and leave off the left front wheel? Or the hood? Or the steering wheel? Or the right side valve cover? Of course not. So why leave off the mirrors?

If it's supposed to be a factory stock, which I assume it is, the fact that they're missing sticks out like a sore thumb.

And while we're at it, a killer Kwanzaa and a festive Festivus...

Your hippy dippy weatherman... with all your hippy dippy weather, man!

Ditto times 3. What a piece of.... um... can't use that word here...

They already did. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DANBURY-MINT-Limited-Edition-1951-Studebaker-Commander-Coupe-NEW-in-BOX-/111052315195?pt=Diecast_Vehicles&hash=item19db3bda3b

Was "Boring Tan" a factory color?

Mirrors?

I'd say that good research is always the first step in building a great model. That is, if your model is intended to be an accurate replica of the original. If you're doing a custom or a phantom or a "what if," then the sky is the limit.

Ok, this isn't the builder's fault... but why are the front turn signals molded as chrome-plated parts? They are actually clear lenses with yellow (amber) bulbs on the real car.

It all depends on how crazy you want to get. Everyone has different standards, everyone has different ideas as to how far to take it. It's an individual decision, no "one size fits all" answer. I always start off every new project with a thorough google search, and collect as many pics as I can find, but that's because I build my models to be as accurate and true to the subject as possible. To me, research is always step 1. But depending on your own personal style, you may do a lot of research before you start, or none at all.

CMC makes some of the most spectacular diecast models you'll ever see. They are just flat-out incredible. Wayne Moyer reviews them in his "Collector's Corner" column in the magazine every so often, and every time I see one of CMC's models reviewed, I want it! You're lucky to own that one, it's a beauty!

Meguiars make good stuff, period. All of their products are top notch.

I don't have any pre-set limit. I'll spend whatever it takes to produce the result I want. So far, the most I have ever spent on ONE specific kit, not including normal supplies that are used for all models, like tools, paints, glues, body filler, sandpaper, etc... but just the stuff needed for this one particular kit, is $1,000, give or take a buck or two.

And if you don't have any heat shrink tubing, just paint the "hose" flat black!

This is a 1/24 scale cable car. The model is mostly wood, with cast metal chassis, wheel and suspension parts along with various small details like the wrought iron brackets above the entrances. The kit contains brass rod that you have to bend to shape to create all the grab handles and handrails. All paint is acrylic craft paint, the wooden bench seats are real wood, stained and varnished to look like oak. All markings come printed on a sheet of plain paper and have to be cut out and applied using an adhesive... I painted the area to receive the marking with Future and then placed the marking onto the Future. It works great! The base came courtesy of Terry Sumner, and I added the scratchbuilt "asphalt" and "concrete" surfaces, along with the rails. The "asphalt" is model railroad ballast that I glued down to the base and painted gray, the "concrete" area where the rails are is plaster of paris that I poured into molds, then painted and glued to the wooden base, and the rails are strips of cardboard. These cars don't have a front and a back... they have two fronts! Both ends are a "front" and are identical, with the same operator controls, headlight, etc. The operator stands in between the wooden benches. When the car gets to the end of the run, it doesn't turn around... the operator just goes to the opposite end, and what had been the "back" becomes the "front," and the car makes the return run.

They changed the name from Future to Pledge with Future Shine. Same product–liquid acrylic.

Well, at the price they're selling it for, my guess is they paid the licensing fee!

The reason that stuff is non-toxic is because they took out the chemicals that make it work! It's junk, toss it out. Jason's reply is a good one... you'll want to use different glues for different situations. I agree with his basics... liquid cement, epoxy, CA and something to use on small chrome scripts and emblems. You can even use good old Elmer's for small things light headlight lenses. Clear acrylic can also be used as a "glue" for headlight lenses and small photoetched emblems and scripts.

First they called it "global warming." Then they dropped that name and started calling it "climate change." What will they call it next? "Temperature Instability?" But the funny thing is, the earth has been undergoing "climate change" since the big bang. There have been tropical periods, ice ages, etc. Climate change is billions of years old. Nothing new there. It's only within the last few years that the "experts" have seized on the subject and managed to make a profit on it. Oops... sorry if that got too close to "political commentary."

All "rubbing compounds" are mild abrasives and work on anything. They don't know what they're being used on–an abrasive is an abrasive. There are literally dozens of different products out there, from highly aggressive rubbing compounds to much gentler polishing compounds... but regardless of the product, they all work on whatever surface you use them on to an extent. Obviously, the harder the surface, the less they will have an effect... but on soft surfaces like polystyrene (or painted polystyrene) they will all work.

We're supposed to get snow flurries tonight. April 12. Halfway to freakin' MAY and they're forecasting snow flurries... Where did "global warming" go?