Harry P.

Gramps... have you gotten my PMs???

All sprayed paint results in overspray. It's not a "Testors" thing... it's a "spraying" thing. The brand of paint has nothing to do with it.

That "Charger" convertible looks cool! I've never seen one done like that before, but I have to say it looks good!

ok, Art... now you got me curious! I just checked out my Danbury '56 Buick under my magnifier lamp. I can't find even a trace of a sprue attachment point on any of the plastic parts... the engine parts, the exhaust system, the chrome trim strips on the sides of the body, the windshield and rear glass frames, etc. except for one place: the "stems" of the outside rear view mirrors have a tiny spot that's been touched up with silver paint. I can only assume that those parts are so small and delicate that even someone's small hands couldn't sand those areas smooth? Either they have figured a way to hide all the sprue attachment points, or like you say, they take every single part and sand off all imperfections before paint and assembly (like a good model builder should! ). In either case, it's mighty impressive what they can do.

Are you sure? They take every part to be plated off the trees, sand them all smooth, and then plate them? How? How are they plated as loose parts? Or do they get reattached to some sort of holder? Are you sure they do it that way? If so, that explains how they get the parts so perfect, but that seems very labor-intensive. But then again, at the prices these models go for, I can see them doing that.

All-time favorite car that will EVER be made? Are you psychic or something? Because I sure can't see into the future...

The whole point of having specific categories is not because we like to cause you problems, wise guy. We have specific categories so that you guys can find specific content more easily. We do it for your benefit... not because we want to be the "category police." But thanks so much for that really helpful message.

Another way to go: Put the tires in a microwave-safe bowl filled with water and zap them for about 30 seconds... that'll soften them up so that the WW inserts will fit easily. I use that trick to mount Pocher kit tires onto the wheels. The Pocher tires are incredibly stiff and impossible to stretch over the wheels without serious damage to either the wheels or my fingers... unless I soften them up by warming them. Just be careful not to overdo it and melt or distort the tires. Try 30 seconds, if they're still too stiff try another 15-20 seconds. And remember to have them in water, not just "bare" in the microwave!

Any scale model is welcome here.

No, they don't discount their models. Your best bet to find one "on sale" is ebay.

Here's another example... 1/24 Danbury Packard. I don't see a mold seam line or sprue attachment point anywhere... If Danbury can do it, so can anyone else.

Quality has improved tremendously. Panel gaps are incredibly tight, chrome and paint is absolutely flawless, "real" spring-loaded scissor hinges on the hood are the norm, badges and emblems are photoetched. The quality and attention to detail has to be seen up close. It's incredible.

I don't know if the plating is the exact same vacuum-plating process a plastic kit uses, but the chrome parts are plastic, not metal. But whatever the process is, my point is that it can be done. And it is being done. There's no technical reason why a 1/24 scale model kit can't have chrome like that. It's a cost issue, not a technical limitation.

Here's a Danbury '56 Buick. I have this model, so I can say from firsthand knowledge that the chrome bumpers (and all of the separate chrome trim pieces) are perfect... no sprue attachment points visible anywhere. Danbury can do it... so obviously it can be done. But you won't find a model of this quality for 20 bucks.

Which brings us right back to the point I made about car modelers being "cheap." The fact is, in general, military/armor guys are willing to pay for quality. Car modelers are not. So car modelers get compromised kits with corners cut to save money. There is no technical reason why a chrome plated bumper has to be attached to the sprue in a visible spot. Like Christian said, the high-end die-cast manufacturers have figured it out. I have a lot of Danbury Mint models, and if you look at the quality of the plated injection-molded plastic parts, you see nothing but perfection. The chrome looks like chrome, it's glass-smooth and flawless. And you never see a sprue attachment point. But better engineering costs $$$, and the bottom line for many car modelers (far more so than military modelers) is price, not quality or accuracy.

Wouldn't it have fit in the "boot"? Oh well... one 12V or 2 6V... it's all the same, I guess.

Just out of curiosity, why are there two batteries?

Remember... don't post any hints or answers here. I need the exact model year, make and model. The answer: 1962 Daimler SP250 "Dart"

Why do I suddenly have an urge for a dreamsicle?

That Delahaye is sooooooo cool!

Q: A competent politician, an honest lawyer, and Santa were on an elevator, when the three of them all noticed a 5 dollar bill laying on the floor. Which one of them picked it up? A: Santa did! The other two don't exist!

Photos would be a big plus, I agree. Also... We all assume your technique works, that's not the problem... but given all of the warnings you mentioned, isn't it so much easier to just buy a ready-made commercially available non-toxic rust product like the stuff the model railroad guys use? http://www.rustall.com/

That's a nice image!

Now that's funny!

Once again. Moebius goes the extra mile for us. You guys are the perfect example of how a model kit manufacturer should operate.