Shardik

Another good one, but I find his selection rather limited.

Yeah. The craftsmanship is first rate, too. Nice pin-striping, if you like that sort of thing.

I buy about 75% of my kits (recent releases) and aftermarket stuff from Jack. On these items his prices are in line with the market if not slightly lower. On vintage plastic though, you'll probably do better on e-Bay, but not by much. In terms of reliability and integrity, however, Jack can't be beat.

O.K.....I don't actually know if it's the world's fastest. In fact, it probably isn't. But, it's definitely in the running for world's coolest Some very creative engineerin was required to stuff a 302 into that engine bay No room for a radiator under the hood, so... ...They stuck it in the back. Speaking of the back end: I took these pictures at the American Legion post 11-11 in Broomfield, Co last Memorial Day.

A couple more good souces for fine screen are tea balls (wire mesh clam shell balls used for preparing loose tea) and permanent coffee filters.

I don't know anything specific about the provinence of the molds, but I had the impression that this was an all new tooling back in 2000.

Very cool stuff. I want that guitar!

Don't restrict yourself to "hobby'" supply sources, though. Flexi-file and Squadron sanding sticks are wonderfull (and I do still use them occasionaly) but take a look in beauty salon supply outlets (c'mon; your man enough). I get most of my sanding sticks from the nail care section. Fingernail polish can also be used to paint bodies. It's available in some wild colors and finish effects. Finaly, the beading section at your favorite craft store will yield numerous treasures: Solid beading wire in various gages for fuel and brake lines as well as sprark plug wires. Small charms and specialty beads for more gizmos, gadgets and do-dads than you can imagine. You mentioned magnification. The Optivisor, mentioned above, works quite well but I personally find it cumbersome and ucomfortable to wear. A more practical and economical solution is high powered reading glasses, available in any drug store. They are more comfortable, easier to doff and donn, and ,since the lenses are closer to your eyes, they cause less paralax problems. O.K., maybe this isn't all "getting started" type stuff, but it sounds like you've already got a fair amount of experience behind you (we wont dicuss how far behind ).

Richard, I enjoy watching the way your builds come together. Your creative use of scrap bits and alternate materials is inspiring in itself, let alone the final results. I like the trusses supporting the front frame section. They give it a nice industrial look. By the way, the practice of puting lights and other external features into recesses in the body (as you are doing with the tail lights) is called "frenching". ...Don't ask me why

Thanks for the info', Art. Actually, I just discovered that I had a set left over from a '48 Ford Woody. I guess I should check my parts box a bit more closely next time

I just aquired the ProModeler 1940 Ford Deluxe convertible and it has 21 stud heads for the stock version; this is not correct. The finned performance heads have the propper 24 stud count, but I'm building this one factory stock. My question is: what's a good source for the 24 stud heads - aftermarket or kit?

I'm obviously not alone when I say we are lucky to have you around as a resource for this kind of esoteric information. That, and you give great eye-candy!

Seriously nice job on that frame. I'm in the process of building my first scratch built frame and it doesn't anywhere near this good. Practice makes perfect, I guess, and you've obviously had some practice. excuse my ignorance, but what is the function of the brass rod?

Nice, clean stocker. I especialy like the leather look on the seats. Well done all around.

Very nice!(1:1 and 1:24) This is, by far, the nicest kit I've seen Lindberg produce, and even nicer by virtue of your efforts.

Thanks, Jake. Hey, I just noticed that you replicated your 1:1 truck with the same Lindberg kit that I used for the chasis on this one. Were you as surprised by the quality of this kit as I was? Lots more detail than I'm accustomed to finding under their lable, and you made very good use of it.

No pictures (is that allowed here?) but I got three of my "grail" kits in the mail today: Pro Modeler 1940 Ford Deluxe convertible Union Model Ford GT40 Mk II Tamiya Lotus type 25 I am a very happy modeler

We just didn't recognize it without the 20 gal. fuel drums in the back and the nonfunctional blower sticking through the hood. Sounds like you're gonna have some fun, though.

Thank you, Peter. I've read about this method before but haven't tried it yet. Seeing the results you obtained with it, I think I'll give it a try on the next one.

Cool concept, and very nice execution so far. I'll be watching this one. Tally Ho!

The next time I comment on a beautiful, clean, detailed, awesome build, I think I'll just say, "that is so PeeKay!". By the way, what method did you use to get the "El Camino" scripts so sharp?

I'm not a fan of lowered trucks in general, but this is a nice, clean build. Good job! By the way, where did you get the super fine mesh for the grille? That looks totaly scale (and awesome !).

Thank you, Carl. I got alot of weathering practice when I started building armor and aircraft models.

Thanks, Mike. The hood hinges were a classic case of over-reach; the next set will be better. The hardest part about the feed sack was finding fabric with a weave that was close to scale. I ended up using pocket lining from Joanne's fabrics. I think I had almost as much fun writing the story as I did building the truck. I'm glad you got a chuckle out of it.

Yeah, kinda' hard to pidgeon hole this one, ain't it . Glad you like it!