Ace-Garageguy

Please...evac...not evap. Evap is short for "evaporative emission control", an entirely different concept. See post 5. Evac is short for "crankase evacuation system". While these are often confused, they are two different things entirely.

Agreed 100% And it's the stupid, irresponsible and sometimes vicious actions of a tiny minority that are always cited as the "reasons" for limiting the freedoms of the rest of us. The lowest common denominator in this society has become the real ruling class.

Always a real pleasure to see your work, sir. Always.

Really Tom? All the name calling and childish behavior had died down, but you just had to start it up again. Good boy. I've been checking this thread frequently because, now that the kits are getting into the hands of builders, I'm interested in seeing what folks who actually HAVE the kit (and whose noses aren't up the backsides of some Revell execs) think about it. Your remark that I just happened to come across while looking for info on the KIT, and your subsequent conduct, demonstrates clearly to me and everyone on the board exactly what you are. You must be very proud.

Finally a candidate I could admit to voting for without being embarrassed...

So mature, and so to the point.

The Lotus 340R, built in 2000, wasn't allowed in the States. Supposedly, there's one legal one in the US.

My guess...and this is only a guess...is that there's SO MUCH blowby on an 8000HP engine, the volume of the previously shown oil-separators just isn't enough to cope. Any venting system is going to have to be vented to the atmosphere somewhere. Note the air filter affixed to the top of the catch can in the pump-driven system above. This lets cleaned air blow OUT, after it's been sucked out of the crankcase by the pump. I'm guessing the frame rails have a similar filter attached to them somewhere, allowing clean pressurized air to vent to the atmosphere, and the rails themselves act as the separator / catch-can, probably drained after a run or two.

Very clean work. Looks great. I'm intrigued by the carbon-fiber-look wrap. How does it work? It looks like you did a perfect job getting it to follow some difficult contours that couldn't be done so nicely with real carbon.

Sounds to me like a little confusion in terms there. An evaporative system on street-driven cars is typically part of the emission control system, having to do specifically with preventing fuel vapors from entering the atmosphere. A crankcase-ventilation (breather) system has an entirely different function. The hot, whirling parts inside any engine, and combustion gasses from ring-blowby, produce a constant oily mist at positive pressure (over atmospheric). In a street car, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system handles it, venting the mist-laden vapors back into the intake manifold, and they're subsequently burned by the engine. The problem is exacerbated by a supercharged engine with higher combustion-chamber pressures and more ring blowby. Drag cars of times past (really, any high-performance application) didn't (and still don't) want the oily mist to be sucked into the engine's induction system (where it would interfere with accurate tuning) so they simply vented the oily vapor out through the rectangular 'breathers' sticking up from the valve covers. Later on, racers found they could pick up a little extra power by actively sucking the positive-pressure out of the crankcase with a pump. Of course, the air that was sucked out was laden with oil mist too. It had to go somewhere, and vented catch-tanks were provided to hold it, instead of just dumping it on the track. If you notice in this shot, the large hoses for the crankcase ventilation system, similar to the ones on the OP photo, run from the general location of the valve-cover breathers on the older engine shown above. This is a relatively common pump-driven crankcase evacuation system, showing the pump, hoses, and vented catch-can / oil-separator. There's been endless discussion about the effects of evacuating the crankcase on drag engines, how much vacuum to run, electric or mechanical pumps, plumbing layout, catch-can (oil-separator) design, etc. As I said above, I'm not currently familiar with the big-hose systems shown in the photos. Surely someone who is will pipe in and let us know all about the plumbing at the lower end.

Though I'm honestly not familiar with that particular setup, my best guess would be they're part of a crankcase breather system, possibly to an oil mist and vapor scavenge pump.

Yup. It's a first-generation Oldsmobile OHV V8, (303, 324, 371, 394 cu.in.) with a Potvin-driven, front-mounted GMC blower, Hilborn fuel injection, a Hydramatic auto gearbox, and cast-aluminum Offy valve covers. The B&M HydroStick was a race-bred conversion of the early GM Hydramatic auto trans.

He's right, I'm wrong. Take Hakan's advice here on the flathead.

My grail kits change from time to time. Sometimes acquiring one, finally, is somewhat of a disappointment. Right now, I'm after the Johan '62 and '63 Dodge hardtops, preferably unbuilt, but decent, clean built-ups OK.

EXCELLENT! I've been wondering how this project of yours was going. Very nice job, and I'm sure as you do more of this kind of thing, you'll get more and more confidence and it'll seem easy. Amazing how well things work sometimes when you follow the directions.

It's impossible to beat what you get from building something yourself. I completely understand your viewpoint, and really like your line "I wouldn't trade it for anything."

1500 grit wet is sufficient, as long as the entire surface is sanded correctly and no "texture" or deeper sanding scratches remain. It is NECESSARY sometimes to prime parts, as on this clutch/output shaft housing, after the seam was filled and finished. The intake manifold here was stripped of factory chrome, scuffed carefully with Comet and hot water as I mentioned above in post #2. Both the metalized and polished manifold and the clutch / output shaft housing are as close to perfect as a human can get. The texture in the bellhousing is intentional, to represent casting roughness.

The X-frame was a GM mainstay from '57 through '64 (Rivera through '70).

Try not getting it on your fingers. If you DO, acetone will take it right off. Cut up old credit cards make excellent mixing paddles, and keep the stuff at more of a distance from little fingers.

The flathead engines from the Revell '48 Fords should be right. The Merc and Ford engines differed very little, other than displacement. The engine in the Revell '49 Merc is a first-gen OHV Cadillac V8, which went into production in 1949. It was a popular engine to swap for the flathead, particularly before 1955 when the smallblock Chevy engine was introduced. The Caddy engine can be any color you like, as it would have most likely been sourced from a junkyard and possibly rebuilt (or at least painted) before being put in the Merc. BUT, the stock color for the Caddy engine is a dark blue.

Comes up as this one...http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/mkiba-build-under-c/amt-instructions/automotive-cars--pi/chrysler/amt-2005-chrysler-3/03.html

You can get millinery (hat-maker's) netting in various net sizes at fabric / sewing / craft supply stores.

...and number 10: It has some obvious issues and inaccuracies, but I'll buy it anyway. It's a decent place to start.

...and maybe take a minute to remember what it actually means (besides beer, hot dogs and fireworks). I know. B o r... i n g.

...but did they have a pig in the back wearing lipstick and a short skirt?