Ace-Garageguy

X2

First shot here shows the level forward section of the bellypan, and the raked rear portion. Idea is to generate a little downforce on the tail to improve traction at high speeds. To my knowledge, nothing like this was tried back then, but there's absolutely nothing that would have prevented someone thinking of it. Final shapes coming together, and the car closing on its final overall appearance. Stock AMT '29 roadster in the background is the basis. High rear 3/4 view shows helmet fairing and rear of tonneau very close to final shapes. Front 3/4 view also shows slightly reshaped nose for cleaner lines. First snap-in windshield experiment worked as planned, so final tweeking and a re-cut of the clear material will have that dialed in too.

Excellent points Hakan, and thanks for the reminder.

I found it too Skip, but now I'm wondering if the photo isn't really what it says it is...just trying to think of a plausible reason for the delay in closing this one.

Fuel lines on the typical '50s car are very simple. From the tank to the pump (usually engine driven) and on to the carburetor. Usually no return line, as in today's EFI cars. Once again, specific locations and layout will vary by car make and sometimes, model.

This shows the hydraulic brake lines (the "service" or regular foot brake) routed to the front and rear from the master cylinder. It also shows a slightly different E-brake setup, though the function is exactly the same. Everything will be pretty much identical for drum or disc brakes, though the proportioning bypass valve will usually not be used on an all-drum system. In that case, route the front lines neatly and directly to the front brake backing plates, eliminating the detour to the proportioning valve. Actually, function and routing of brake lines hasn't changed very much since the introduction of hydraulic brakes (Ford got with the program in 1939).

'50s cars are all similar in layout and function, but all different in specific detail and routing. By this time, most US cars had E-brake handles under the dash on the LH side. E-brakes are usually cable operated, and a single cable ran from the handle to a splitter / equalizer of some sort, from which two cables continued and entered the rear brake backing plates from the back side. This is typical, but as I noted, there are MANY detail and routing differences on specific vehicles. The cable from the under-dash handle is in white here, not red, and the RH side cable running to the RH wheel is hidden behind the control arm. UNDER A CAR, LOOKING FORWARD:

I'm happy for anyone who makes it to retirement. If you have your own business, it's hard to walk away sometimes...but a feeling of obligation to your customer base shouldn't overshadow your right to enjoy your later life free from business responsibilities...especially when you've been making very high quality stuff and happy customers for a long time. I wish them all the best. I also need to get on the stick and buy their resin kits and parts I've got on the list of "must-haves" while there's still time.

Maybe there's some doubt as to whether the photo is in fact model or real.

Sledsel, thanks for clearing up what the major specific inaccuracies are on the Revell '57 Ford body. I haven't built any of mine yet, or looked at them very critically yet either, but I'll be comparing online shots now with the models. Sounds like the major fixes won't be too difficult if someone wants to go to the extra effort. Still, it would sure be nice if stuff like this got caught BEFORE the models were on the shelves in sealed boxes.

Still watching with a big grin on my face. Great work on that Vortec 4200. I haven't seen anyone do one before. Beautiful work on the headers too.

"It only takes 20 to 30 hours to create your own chopper without the worry of getting your hands dirty and without the backing of an engineering degree or workshop experience. This also includes the time taken for assembling and painting. Yes, the end result doesn’t move an inch without you picking it up. The only metal parts are the handlebars and the side stand—the rest comprises of 180 vacuum molded ABS plastic parts. The coolest feature? You can sit on it and take pictures without the fear of it breaking into pieces." Yes folks, and you can sit on it and pretend you have some nads too.

Harry's probably out driving his new Mustang. This could take a while...(sound of crickets).

Wow. That is COOL. I want it. I assume routine maintenance would be through the cab, like on a small van. Major work would be a real PITA.

Not all that uncommon on older V engines having only a single exhaust pipe out back, and limited space under the vehicle in the vicinity of the gearbox.

Rear-firing class 4 lasers would do it, or 2,000,000 candela xenon strobes...

Really enjoying seeing this one come together. I loved these things when they were new (1:1), and all the extra effort you're putting into this less-than-stellar kit is certainly paying off.

Soon as I get my 1/25 scale antigrav units working reliably, I'll let youse guys know how to get them.

Just what I was thinking.

Looks good to me...very clean, nice paint. I really like the way Revell did the windows on these, setting them in from the outside. Makes a much more realistic appearance.

Good observation. It also looks like he's pulled the entire building off its foundations, not just getting the roof skewed. If you look at the lower LH corner of the structure, it's no longer square on the little lot, and the whole thing appears to be twisted back on the RH side.

That rear 3/4 corner shot looks great with the wide meats. These are such good looking, cleanly-designed cars, and really respond well to updates.

I'm definitely still interested. Do you accept paypal?

He used to be a lube-tech... and before that, a heavy equipment operator...

The mixer driver moonlights as an electrician. His last job...