Ace-Garageguy

Not a real "muscle car" by any definition, but I once had a '66 Ford wagon with a 428, single 4-bbl. I was always amazed by the way that thing would rear up and get gone.

Just for clarification, the front-mid-engine layout of the Cheetah SHOULD have contributed to a car that handled BETTER than its contemporary Cobras, but other factors, as RancheroSteve mentioned, contributed to that not being the case. The Panoz LMP cars performed very well with a similar layout.

Maybe for the drive home?

That's the way I feel about my first ex. Seriously, I envy you guys who have happy long-term marriages. That was my plan in the beginning, but it just didn't work out that way.

Great spin on a kinda weird kit. Good engine choice too. Nice work.

Pretty cool. A blown, tubbed Holden 4-door has to be at the top of the you-don't-see-that-very-often list.

Don't know how I missed this one...she's PRETTY. Looks like a real car in your lead shot. Very very nice.

No wife, complete freedom. Girl doesn't 'get' my hobbies, cars or pets? "Next".

The '36 Ford 3-window is one of my favorite designs, and a mild chop with tasteful customizing makes it even better. The ribbed bumpers, chrome-reverse rims, wide whites and even your little chrome accent at the bottom of the rear fenders all work very nicely on this car.

Low-cost scanner update from the real world. http://www.makepartsfast.com/2014/03/6789/can-lower-cost-3d-scanners-benefit/

Man, looking better and better as it evolves. I like the extra dose of aggressiveness the flares add, and they work well with the Lambo lines. Nice work. Your custom wheel center design picks up the angularity of the body folds and creases, and the color is really a grabber too.

I tuned in kinda late, but what you're doing looks like a lot of fun. Nice styling and proportions, as usual.

Cool project. You don't see many of the Tudor sedan body style getting built as drag cars, or much else these days.

Interesting model, nice work so far.

Yeah, I figure I could get a girlfriend for a couple of years, at least.

A lot of them are the same bidders, and several of the bidders are low-number buyers. Kinda unusual bidding pattern for a real deal.

I figure max 10k for the car, another 10k for the paint, throw in another 5k for the interior, and 2.5k tops for the wheels / tires. Another 5k for the belts / hoses, manifold, carb... That's $32,500. Where's the rest of the value on this?

I dunno guys. I think it's just pretty cool to see a chick who can even drive a stick these days...not to mention a pretty one who's competent to drive well in excess of 150MPH. She's OK in my book, no matter how well she finishes.

The automotive equivalent of this...

No-talent dweeb hack mashup conglomeration of ugly, dorky, and stupid. Pity. That much effort could have produced something worth having. Of course, that would also require a basic understanding of proportion and line...sadly lacking in this horrible mess.

I've really got to hand it to you for arranging your life so you have both the time and energy to consistently turn out such good looking models AND make a living. Good management skills there.

Here's another thread including excellent tutorials, again, right from this board. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=52798 As you've probably already realized, the '35-'40 (through '41 pickup) frames and suspension are all pretty much identical, with only very minor differences. The transverse leaf springs front and rear were a Ford mainstay until the end of the '48 car production, and many components from the various years got mixed and matched on early hot-rods to get a particular result. For instance, it was common to use a model T or model A rear spring and crossmember in a '35-'40 chassis (in '32 and '33-34 chassis too) in order to allow the use of a quick-change center section in the differential, and model A front crossmembers were often used in '32 Fords to get an additional 1" or so of drop.

NOOOO !!! A little respect for the planet we all live on, OK? Seriously, either leave it in a container that has a cover so you can use it again, or strain it with a paint filter or old stockings, and funnel it back into the original can. You WILL need to strip something again. Also, if your stripper isn't working, you may have lacquer paint, which may require a different stripping technique, or you may need to use oven cleaner. All is covered in previous posts.

"marlin" "marilin" Gotta watch those pesky extra letters.