Ace-Garageguy

In general, the best one in terms of scale accuracy is the old old old Monogram 3-window 1/24 scale version, and all its derivatives (though the later chopped and street rod versions have their share of inadequacies and problems). The 1/25 Monogram / Revell SNAPPER KIT is a fair rendition of a mildly chopped 3-window coupe, BUT the nose is WAY TOO SHORT and gives the car a wonky look...if you actually know what a '34 Ford looks like...or care. The old Aurora 1/25 double (complete stock and hot rod versions in the box) 5-window coupe kit is rare, expensive, and looks good built stock, but has significant scale deficiencies. The body is too narrow, for a start. The old-tool AMT 3-window coupe kit is horrible, horrible, horrible. Don't even bother. Did I say horrible? The body shell makes a fair starting point for a lakes-style chop. Throw the rest in the chipper. The later AMT '34 5-window coupe is actually pretty good. The same era AMT '33-'34 two-door sedan has some inaccuracies, but it's not too bad, really. The Revell chopped-3-window coupe GLUE KIT on the tube frame, derived from the Buttera T kits, is seriously UNDERSCALE, and is entirely idiotic. The body shell is about the right size for a '34 Fiat, which is tiny compared to a '34 Ford. I've actually MEASURED REAL CARS to verify this information, and the above is true and correct

The accuracy of ALL the '33-'34 Ford kits has been discussed at length here: http://www.modelcars...showtopic=81776 BUT THE LINK DOESN'T WORK, & GOES TO A DEAD END. MODS, WHAT'S UP WITH THAT ??

I masked these FRONT rims with 3M Fine-Line 1/8" and 1/4" masking tape, and sprayed them. The finish on the center is Testors Metalizer, shot dry and grainy to simulate a cast-alloy. After masking the first time, I lightly scuffed the chrome with a soft artist's brush and a little Comet and water. Then dried, and re-masked. Extra work, but I've had paint shrink and pop off of chrome that wasn't scuffed.

Now THAT sir, is one GREAT reference post !! Thank you !!

Nice rework of this promo. The mid-'50s Olds styling is my favorite to come out of GM during the period. Looks great !

I don't think it's so much "this body didn't exist" as it is that there are several significant proportion and line inaccuracies that rankle. First thing that jumps out at me is the height and shape of the headlight openings, and the profiles of the tops of the front fenders. But, these cars were individually bodied (as noted directly above), raced, and potentially damaged. Differences between cars in the same Ferrari "model' and number often creep in as a result of racing damage / repair / modification...as you imply. I personally think some of the 1:1 250 GTO Ferraris are much more attractive than others, due entirely to subtle differences in bodywork.

EXACTLY. Read the listing carefully, understand what is for sale, don't assume anything, and check the seller's rating and feedback posts. In roughly 1500 eBay transactions now, I've encountered only a few problem sellers, and EVERY ONE was made right by PayPal / eBay. No worries.

A drunk killed MY beautiful young wife and children.

There's a huge amount of top-quality programming available on youtube. BBC dramas, well written British, Irish and Australian mysteries and cop shows, political satire, comedy, and documentaries about everything from science and history to racing and aviation. There is also a wide variety of American and British film available, including one of my own favorite genres, film noir. For you really smart guys, there is a large amount of foreign-language programming. It takes a little digging to find, but the results are worth it...to me anyway. And mostly entirely without intrusive, screaming commercials.

If you paid with PayPal, you're covered under the "buyer protection" program. In well over 1000 ebay transactions, I've so far not lost one cent on any deal that was less than as-described. If you're not familiar with the program, there are complete and user-friendly directions as to how to avail yourself of it. There is a 30 day time limit, I think, to "open a case".

Fine looking rig.

"And who's going to maintain high-tech cars like an Enzo Ferrari when their computers fail? ." --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Not many vo-tech grads, that's for sure. I've hired (and FIRED) a bunch, and worked side by side with a bunch more. A lot of them didn't even have a basic understanding of how an internal combustion engine operates. Giving a bunch of chimps Vipers to pound on doesn't make them mechanics....or engineers. The VAST majority of the tech-school guys I've encountered, even if they WANT to be good, leave school with enough knowledge to let them get jobs where they will eventually LEARN to be mechanics, at best, and at worst, they have enough knowledge to ruin everything they touch. With all due respect, refitting ANY vehicle to function in the event of computer failure, where the computers are no longer available, is COMPLETELY beyond the scope of most of even the BEST of the mechanics out there. EDIT: And before I get slammed, let me say I've known a FEW highly motivated, intelligent, curious, talented and diligent vo-tech guys who have become really EXCELLENT mechanics and practical engineers. It's just not the norm.

Diesels typically get their FUEL by timed, direct injection. The AIR enters the cylinders via ports in their sides (for 2-STROKE Diesels). The 6-71 engine (also a 2-stroke diesel, and on which I THINK this engine is based) similar to the 4-71 (center photo in post #7), has a blower mounted on the side of the block that forces air (not "mixture") through ports and passages, ultimately into the cylinders. If you look at the top photo in post #7, you'll notice what look like blowers UNDER the bottom plate of the airbox. I believe these are the REAL blowers that allow this thing to run. They appear to be in the normal location, and would explain how the engine can run with the entire side of the top-mounted airbox open. Remember that 2-STROKE diesels HAVE TO HAVE A BLOWER TO RUN AT ALL, because they don't aspirate normally like a 4-STROKE. 2-stroke diesels have no intake valves, and rely on ports in the cylinder wall being uncovered by the sliding piston to admit air, which is blown in by the block-mounted blower.

Thanks! The blower housing is just Duplicolor gray primer, which is a very good match for some of the raw blower housing castings from the '50s and '60s, and also does a pretty good imitation of a sand-blasted alloy part.

Personally, for simulating cast metal finishes, I prefer Testors Buffing Metalizers. This engine has aluminum on the bellhousing and intake manifold, magnesium on the injector body, and titanium on the exhaust manifolds to simulate a ceramic coating. Depending on how dry or how slick you shoot it, you can get a slight surface grain to simulate a sand-casting, (or a smooth surface to simulate a machined or die-cast part) and if you polish it after it's completely dry, you bring up a very convincing metal look.

Or how about a webinar about the current state of 3d scanning to 3d modeling? Enter here... http://www.engineeringwhitepapers.com/rapid-prototyping/3d-scan-3d-print-design-innovations-faro-3d-systems-webinar/

Or build something really weird, where accurate body lines don't count too much... Or maybe hack and bash it into a Devin...

Yup, and a battery-powered CB is another good, low-cost (no monthly fee) though seldom used, emergency backup.

I retract my "guaranteed" statement about the smelly EasyOff in light of Casey's experience. It's just always worked for me. Then again, the majority of chrome I've stripped has been from much older kits than '02. Putting a heavy coat on the parts, and bagging them so the remover stays WET for a long time, and keeping everything WARM enhances the results. It also works well for stripping multiple coats of paint in far fewer applications of stripper.

Not really, not forever necessarily, and not carved in holy stone. There ARE ways to make it work. Of course, I only speak from first hand experience. It might take a little effort on someone's part.

I'd like for that to happen as well, but unfortunately the relevant statutes of limitations would only cover the ability of the law to prosecute of the offense of stealing the cars. Even after the statutory expiration, whoever held ownership title at the time the vehicles went "missing" would STILL have legal claim to them. Taking something and hiding it doesn't give the taker any ownership rights, no matter how long you wait. Excellent point. Probably another marketing-publicity inspired piece of stupidity. .

Man, youze guys are talking some SERIOUS performance now!!!

Most states have a procedure whereby cars that have no VIN, for whatever reason, can be issued new VINs and then be returned to operational status. A VIN doesn't have to follow a vehicle factory to crusher, and a car with no VIN doesn't have to be destroyed. And as I said, Chrysler MADE the damm things, and can easily issue certificates of origin, which allows the issuance of a NEW VIN.

Following that statement to its logical conclusion, the "Chrysler" that "exists" now would have no more legal right to order the destruction of the cars than they would have to generate paperwork to dispose of them for parts or rebuilding. Corporations derived from earlier corporations usually have contractual, legal provisions for dealing with issues arising from actions of the prior corporate structure. Obviously if anybody there had any real interest in the heritage of Chrysler, the cars, at least some, would be liquidated with some kind of respect for what they represent...rather than being treated like inconvenient trash.

Thanks Chuck. They don't appear to be as wide as the decals, which is what I was afraid of. Hmmmmm. And yes, beautiful model, sir.