Ace-Garageguy

Vintage kits and gluebombs, parts-lots from ebay usually. Supplies and current kits from Hobbytown, HobbyLobby, etc. No more LHS close by. Fillers, epoxies, some paints and primers from 1:1 sources

Yeah, I searched Walt Maynard's cars too, and didn't turn up anything else on this one. Lots of other Mopars under his name though. What is included as the "drag setup" in the kit?

Only photo I could find of the '66-'67 body that looks like it's set up for SS is this.

Seems like I remember seeing that body run in Super Stock.

Thanks Dave. I was hoping you'd weigh in on this one. As far as how competitive it would be in 1:1, I was thinking not necessarily a class-wining car, but rather something built from bits and pieces of older cars, more as a hobby car than a serious contender...but still fast enough to be interesting, and of course, class-legal. If you'd suggest which particular class rules I should focus on to make a more informed build-plan, I'd appreciate it. One more question that I'm unsure of...are the "door cars" always steel, or are f'glass body parts allowed? Thanks again.

"She may be part machine, but she's ALL woman." And I assume she comes with an "OFF" switch.

Well, that's the thing. I like the aggressive look and proportions as-is, and that's why I'm trying to get some input as to whether it could fit in any class, as-is. Guess I should have made that clear in the first post. Thanks Jim, and to the other guys who like it. The other thing is that I have this 'thing' about building models that could actually work in the real world. I usually do period cars and try to make them as close to historically accurate as is reasonably possible, and I'd prefer to fit this, looking pretty much like it does, into some existing (or historically accurate) class if possible. I know there are some very knowledgeable recent and current drag-car builders here who could glance at this and know the answer.

I'm asking you guys who really know this stuff for input. I've been looking at several class rules, and especially the 1:1 pro-mod build pix that comp1839 posted on this board. The build has been stalled for over a year because I realized I just didn't know enough about these cars to do a reasonably correct model. I'm sure there's a lot wrong with it already, and I know I'll have to open the doors. ANY other input / criticism is entirely welcome. If it's already too fubar and I should just start over after getting familiar with the classes and rules, that's fine too. I have NOT been following drag racing for a long time, but I started building this thing based on some ideas I've had from pix I've noticed in passing, over the years. It's supposed to be a glass body on a tube frame, blown Keith Black hemi, altered wheelbase, etc. I'd like to build it right for an actual drag racing class, and I've been told it would be some kind of outlaw heads-up car, or possibly pro-mod. Like i said...ANY criticism or input is welcome. I'm entirely out of touch with modern drag racing, and I'm asking for guidance. It's built mostly out of gluebombs and bits I had lying around, so doing a major rework isn't going to make me feel bad.

Sounds like you've got a 4-port Hilborn-style injector body. Injector lines can be on either side, or both. Here's one atop an early Hemi. (Images taken from open internet sources under the "fair use" definition in copyright law) Close up of the plumbing from the throttle or barrel valve to the injector ports. It could also have been plumbed with hard-lines. More images. https://www.google.com/search?q=4+port+hilborn+blower&client=firefox-a&hs=ukk&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=FJyYUp3BCNOHkQe5wYH4Bw&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1587&bih=738&dpr=1#imgdii=_ General plumbing layout. You would have 4 nozzles instead of 2. More images. https://www.google.com/search?q=hilborn+barrel+valve&client=firefox-a&hs=pHQ&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=Cp-YUpuHH6vIsASy64Aw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1587&bih=738#imgdii=_ Hilborn mechanical injection tech ref. overview: http://www.hilborninjection.com/tech_mech_overview.asp

Best thrown-away deal I ever got was a perfectly good Toro 6.5hp self-propelled mower. Shiny, red, and clean, thrown on top of a bunch of old washers and fridges at the dump. I figured it was at least useful for parts for my old one on its last legs. Wouldn't start with fresh gas. Rebuilt the carb (water in the float bowl), cleaned the plug and she fired right up. Going strong for several years now, 2 starter cords later.

The Olds and Pontiac rear ends most popular for racing because of their strength and gear ratios are '57 and later. Same with the Ford 9". Earlier gassers often used truck rear ends. For the correct-appearing '57-'64 Olds / Pontiac, my80malibu is right on about the AMT '62 Catalina, though you'll probably have to narrow it for a gasser. Surely somebody makes it in resin. The backside of the '57-'64 looks like this, and doesn't have a bolt-on cover. This is the general appearance, below, of the earlier Olds rear end, though coil-sprung cars would have different spring perches. Note the bolt-on rear cover.

You might also consider using wood or styrene as an undersized frame for the general shape, and then add 2-part automotive glazing putty (which is easily sanded to shape and plenty hard enough for a buck) to build up the surface to get the contours exactly right. Vacuum forming will pick up small surface imperfections from your buck, so if your part going to be formed in a transparent material (red, I assume) you need to get the surface of the buck pretty slick and smooth. Also remember to make it undersized by the thickness of the material you'll be using for the final part.

All the above responses are spot-on, but I was curious and pulled the models off the shelf to have a look. The width of the 1/25 Olds hood at the rear of the fenders is about right to fit either the 1/24 monogram body, or the 1/25 Revell body...both with a little massaging needed. The Olds hood is about 3/16" too long at the front of the fenders of the 1/25 Revell body, but the width is pretty close; exactly as it should be as per Art's information. The Olds hood is about 1/8" too long for the Monogram 1/24 body, and about 1/8" too narrow on each side too. Still, the Olds hood could possibly be used on either of the mentioned Chevy bodies (or the AMT '50 Chevy bodies) as the basis of a custom modification, though It would take quite precise bodywork.

Sweet deal. Glad you found each other, just in time.

Nah nah nah nah...the moderator wrote a bad word !!! Nah nah nah nah.

I really enjoy seeing your clean restorations. Very nicely done.

I understand the kit also has 300 pairs of optional shoes, and a little shovel to dig for gold. Very realistic.

I've found that when I'm getting burned out on anything, whatever it may be, a couple of long hikes or some other intense exercise usually makes me see things in a better light, and helps to get me back on track. Just doing something else entirely different helps the model-building interest re-awaken too, which is why I guess I'm lucky in having a lot of interests. There's always SOMETHING that seems like fun. I also tend to run up against blocks on models sometimes, especially if I'm not entirely sure how to progress to get the result or effect I want. Having multiple projects in various stages of completion usually allows me to find another model to make progress on while waiting for the muse.

If you know anyone with a car restoration shop who has a bead-blaster (it's like sand blasting, but uses small glass beads instead of sand, to limit the damage and the amount of material taken off), that will work very well for taking the gloss off of intricately molded tires with no damage. Practice first on some tires you don't care about to get a feel for it.

Geez...nice work. Really nice.

Hmmmm....between that and Skip's Perry the Squirrel....hmmmmm....a fuzzy woman with a rodent head and tail? And frog legs?? No, wait. I dated her, and it wasn't that great a combination.

Love the box art. The bright, chirpy female looks like she's helping the...slow...male to sound out ...D...O...G....Obviously some subliminal feminist indoctrination.

Response 1: Yup, just before she cut my heart out. Sort of established a pattern with women...she was less than impressed by the punctuation in an essay I'd written on manufacturing. Alternate response: Yup. I'm the turkey.

Great looking model, and the wheelstand really brings it to life. Are the wheelie-bar wheels holding it up at all, or is all the load going through the axle attachment?

Man, some beautiful stuff in this thread....