Ace-Garageguy

Or, after you click on the IMG code, all you have to do is come back to the post you're writing here and hit Ctrl-v on your keyboard (hold them both down). The image code will show up wherever the cursor is blinking in the post you're writing, and when you click "post", the full image automatically comes up.

Exactly. A large part of the problem is that a top-line Ford is so good, what's the point of paying premium money for a set of emblems and a little different styling? Maybe the whole idea of wasting money on nothing but "sizzle" to impress the neighbors is going away. Nah, it's just that Lexus has positioned itself as the Japanese equivalent to a Mercedes, and Linclon is still just seen as a gussied-up Ford. I DO like the idea of Lincoln building something to compete heads-up with Cadillac's hot rod. They've certainly got all the mechanical bits on the shelf to pull it off.

Huh? The thread Casey linked to is an exhaustive listing of ALL the nailheads out there with their strengths and weaknesses. It's pretty easy to read all about them, so why bother to re-post all of that information over on THIS thread?? What am I missing??

Just for the record, Ardun actually did manufacture heads for the V8-60 as well. An original set lives on the engine of this year's Brizio-built AMBR winner.

Another suggestion...older Chilton and Motor multi-vehicle repair manuals show a lot of different vehicles, and have a wealth of information. As you see, they're often arranged by loose inclusive time periods. They can also often be had very cheaply.

Here's some research from one of my long term builds... The engine I was wanting to use was the Lincoln 368, a Y-block design, which ended production in 1957. A Stroppe-prepared one was in the Mercury Mermaid, and was in large part the inspiration for this build. It seems that in reality, some of the Mermaid engines were sold off in SoCal when the car was parted out. The valve covers are very distinctive, and came on '56 -'57 Continentals. These are the valve covers presented in the double T kits. The T kits have the valve covers right for a Continental Y-block, but the rest of the engines are wrong. EDIT: I was corrected by rasafyyf (Raymond Glen Campbell) concerning my WRONG assertion that the first-release heads in the double-t kits were FE-looking (as shown in the first 2 photos below). It appears that the kit I had based that statement on, which I'd bought open, had some extra FE-looking heads in it, molded in the same black as the rest of the model. After checking two other releases of the double-T I have on the shelf, it appears that the heads on the early-release "Lincoln" engine are for an MEL. And the later release looks like an MEL also, sort of, going by the plug location (which is laid out differently from the FE). The FE has all the plugs located inboard of the exhaust ports, like this. And this is an MEL...different plug arrangement. If you look at the kit engines, you'll see what I mean. The 368 Y-block Lincoln has the plugs located below the headers, and the wires come in from the bottom, even on the production motors. The exhaust ports are evenly spaced, like the FE and MEL, but centered relative to the valve covers, NOT like the FE and MEL. So the "Lincoln" engine in the T kit is a sort-of MEL , depending on which release you have, but with Y-block Continental valve covers (which won't bolt to a MEL).

I haven't perfected the technique yet, but it's looking like very fine diamond-tipped grinder bits (1/8" shank) in a variable speed Dremel will ultimately be the way to finish scribing the vents after the wiper material is removed.

Oh yes indeed... Many many years ago, I started a chopped '53 Ford pickup build for a client. We had a burned Pantera as the donor for suspension and drivetrain, the engine going in the bed. Client ran out of $$, have no clue where it is now.

Must have been thinking of the 'torque-to-ground-ratio".

Incredibly beautiful model !! I'm simply in awe of your skill.

Superb craftsmanship.

Interesting project, should make a real standout truck. I heavy mods.

Very nice, all of it. All the mods look spot-on, and really improve the look of the model way beyond as-kitted.

Obviously not my own build, but my preference for T-bucket based rods has always been for the more track-roadster look and proportion, which tends to handle a lot better than the Kookie-Kar style.

"Debonders" are intended to break down CA glues (cyanoacrylate "super" glues), not the typical toluene / acetone / solvent glue most modelers use. Because solvent-type glues work by actually melting the plastic and fusing it together, debonders won't have any effect if the model was assembled using solvent-type glue. There are numerous posts available on here about which methods folks prefer for dis-assembling models built with solvent glues.

Bing bing bing bing...I think we have a winner, folks !!

Chevy "Stovebolt" hot-rod sixes: The AMT '51 Chevys have okay inline sixes, but they also have some interesting speed equipment. The '51 BelAir hardtop has an unusual Fisher crossflow head and chrome valve-cover, and what appears to be 6-port fuel injection. The '51 Fleetline and BelAir convertible have the same basic engine, but a dual-carb setup for the stock head, and a nice custom finned valve cover. The Galaxie '46-'48 Chevy Aerosedan has a much better Stovebolt, and also includes optional Wayne (Horning) valve cover, side cover, and a 3X1bbl Edelbrock manifold with Stromberg carbs.

There are TWO Pontiac "Trophy 4" 4-cylinder Tempest engines in the Mickey Thompson Attempt I kit by Revell. These engines were, essentially one cylinder bank and the bottom end of a 389 V8. The engines in the kit have interesting side-mounted GMC 3-71 blowers, and would make unusual powerplants for smaller rods. As the basic engines, in reality, share many 389 V8 components, a conversion to stock appearance is quite feasible.

Interesting. I don't have any real Ardun parts available at the moment to compare to...what exactly are the inaccuracies on the first release of the F-1 kit?

That makes it difficult. It's just about impossible to do any kind of realistic detailing (and don't we detail models to make them seem more realistic?) without having a basic understanding of how things under the hood function. If you're completely unfamiliar with the workings of engines, cooling systems, fuel systems, brakes, etc., I'd suggest you get yourself some basic books on how vehicles work. Internal-combustion vehicles ALL work basically the same way, and once you understand the basics, the components (that differ widely in location and routing in different vehicle types and brands) will begin to become recognizable, and the connections and functions will start to make sense when you do your googling.

Shaping up very nicely. First impression is definitely P1800.

Yes. The most immediately obvious identifier of an FE engine is the fact that the rocker-boxes are partially formed by the intake manifold. This is an unusual design unique to the FE, not shared by either the Y-block or the MEL. It is depicted correctly on the AMT '62 T-bird engine. The FE in the AMT version of the '60 Starliner, though not the exact same tooling as the engine in the '62 'Bird, was obviously developed and tooled from the same data. The scaling is identical.

To quote Modelmartin: "...He absolutely, fervently believed something which was so obviously untrue and refused to believe something that was true... ... and is allowed to vote and reproduce freely! We are doomed. " -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Yup.

Best laugh I've had in a long, long time...

Well, she certainly has a face only her mother could love, but she's seriously cool somehow in spite of it. I too recall the "gotta use every part in the box" build style. Man, that's cool. I wondered what those incredible skirts came from ...i got a couple of sets in with some other stuff recently.