Ace-Garageguy

I just haven't been hitting the right look...so I made a blowup of a side-shot of the car in almost 1/25 scale. It's been a big help in analyzing why my model wasn't looking quite right... ...and low and behold, the problem in front is that the fender fits the tire MUCH more closely than the blown-car fender (supplied correctly in the kit, but having a full skirt / fairing to streamline the nose further), so to I'm adding material in .010" strips (there will probably be 3 required) to the inside of the wheel arch. This is going to let me bring the top of the fender down to match the photo, smooth out the top of the curve, and will also allow the height of the fender bulges off of the center panel of the car to match the photos .

Minor changes, but I like it much better. Compare this shot to the similar one in post 159. Hmmm...Thing is, I didn't like the look enough in 159, and I got stuck on the build. Now I like it enough to go the rest of the way. Hmmmm....

The board was recently upgraded and descriptions of the topics were clarified so as to make it easier to get a particular model, question or other subject in the most logical area. The Orange Hauler, aka Ultra Truck is...wait for it...a custom TRUCK, non-big-rig, and so a finished build of it would logically go into the non-big-rig TRUCK under-glass section. The moderators aren't trying to be difficult, just trying to preserve some logical organization so...please take a few minutes to look at all the possible topics before you post.

Excellent response from Skip, and what he says holds true for anything with a similar rear-sloping roofline that flows down into the body, ...cars like the '49 Merc or the early '50s GM fastbacks, and the '40 Ford Tudor sedan, for instance. This '37 Ford chop illustrates the concepts...a stretch in the center of the roof forward of the B-pillars (which allows them to remain vertical), leaned back A-pillars, and a significantly re-sectioned C-pillar area.

I've done a real one. Does that count?

I've been building stuff other people got the credit for most of my life, and I've been around the biz long enough to know if a shop owner knows the dirty end of the work. Chip Foose most certainly DOES. It's pretty obvious when his guys have a problem fitting something, or whatever...Foose gets in there and makes it look easy, and you can't do that unless you know your stuff and paid your dues actually doing the WORK.

Gee whillikers...I sure wish they still made babes like that. I'd forget how old I am and make a real fool of myself. As far as George Barris goes, he WAS the real deal and had his hands on a lot of the early cars that defined the "kustom" look on the left coast. He also wrote how-to columns for the early car rags, and he's often photographed actually doing the work...welding, leading, grinding etc. Like a lot of folks who make it, he became much more involved over time in the promotional aspects of the business than the actual work. And like many artists, the quality and attractiveness of his credited designs have highs and lows ...and I agree, there are a few instances where the actual deserved 'credit' for a particular car is somewhat cloudy.

Just like real cars...lift blocks (which only work if the axle is mounted BELOW the leaf spring) or long rear shackles were the leaf-spring favorites. Make either from styrene stock. Or spacers between the ends of the leaf-springs and the chassis will raise the car slightly. Of course, on a real car you can't put long shackles on both ends of a leaf spring...that would allow WAY too much axle movement. A small spacer at the front of the spring would simulate a modified front spring hanger, while a fatter rear spacer would simulate a long rear shackle. Solid-axle coil-spring rear ends require spacers under the springs...or longer springs. Long rear shackles space the ends of the spring away from the bottom of the chassis, raising the vehicle, as in this photo. Raising the rear of a vehicle significantly also wrecks weight transfer for drag-racing (unless the front is raised a like amount) and makes kinda evil handling vehicles in general (contributing to excessive side-sway in turns, plowing understeer, and axle tramp on hard acceleration).

WOW !! BEAUTIFUL !!!

Just like when I paint a 1:1 car, I paint major panels that will show even the slightest mismatch (doors if opened, deck if opened, and hood) temporarily held in place on the body so that the color will be consistent. Items like body-color mirrors and valences, I'll paint separately...a slight color mismatch won't show at all...just count coats of material. For me, items that stick out like body-color mirrors are just too difficult to paint in place without getting a local heavy buildup, and that's just asking for runs. Pinning the mirrors avoids any glue mess post-painting. Cars that have soft bumpers in real life, like rubber-nose Camaros need to have the bumper fascia painted while attached to the body also to avoid an obvious mismatch. Just my opinion...your results may vary.

...or bull exhaust...

Well, you could always try getting some dimensions from a real one (wheelbase, length, height, width...all available online) and measuring the model, and then actually working out the scale. Simple math, no argument.

I remember when the 1:1 was intro'd. I was blown away by Starbird's imagination, being able to get THAT from a '62 Chevy pickup cab on a '55 Chevy car frame. Beautiful model of a very influential and important custom.

You're definitely beginning to close in on the proportions and lines. Effective mashup...looking good so far.

A REAL 1952 Ferrari Mexico brought $4.3 MILLION in 2011. It's pretty hard to believe this car is actually "based" on a real one...probably a re-creation, custom-creation. Very interesting and the craftsmanship appears to be outstanding...but I still seriously doubt an original car would be hacked into a custom at this point in history. Do you have ANY more info on it...a weblink, a name, anything ?? EDIT: Found it... Using a Ferrari 456 platform as a base, GWA Tuning was able to bring the classic 340 Mexico Berlinetta to modern times. This 456 platform was re-bodied by Coach Building master, Mark Nungent, from Australia. The body was then fixed up with a new diffuser, rear spoiler, side vents, and front splitters, all from newer Ferraris. The body was also stretched by about 15 inches (mostly in the middle) to fit the new platform, but the wheelbase remained the same. http://www.topspeed.com/cars/ferrari/2011-ferrari-340-mexico-berlinetta-by-gwa-tuning-ar115683.html

Not cost-effective (at $50k) for the home-modeler unless you just won the lottery, but here's a machine developed specifically for making wax patterns. Perfect for prototyping directly to molds or tooling. http://www.deskeng.com/articles/aabmmz.htm

Yup...

The 1:1 is pretty bizarre, and though I'm not a real fan of the 'styling', an accurate model would be quite an accomplishment, and a standout for sure. What's the story on the 1:1? It's obviously not a real period piece.

I still do it occasionally, and it's one of the reasons I tend to test-fit obsessively and pin as much as possible (or practical).

Bravo, sir. Well said.

Well then...I have the old Monogram 1/24 Turbo coupe in stock, which I have mostly the same comments about. Parts count is pretty low, details are light, and there are some parting lines on the body that need careful attention. The overall proportions and lines look pretty good (and I'm kinda picky about Porsches). I've used one of these as the basis for a hot-rod custom widebody Speedster, and the fit of the chassis, interior, suspension and engine bits was good.

The only Revell 911 I currently have in stock is this one... which is a repop of this one... minus the stock seats and some added 'racing' bits. Parts count is kinda low, there are some minor proportion issues, and not a lot of detail. Still, they CAN build into gorgeous early 911 models. If you want really nice 911s, my advice would be the Fujimi 'Enthusiast" kits. They're complex and have loads of detail, and with patience and skill, produce spectacular models.

Nice progress on a very interesting build.

All way before my time (and certainly not my field of expertise) but there are references galore for "board track racers" based on model T guts. Here's one from 1915 in the Museum of American Speed, for anyone who's interested. http://www.museumofamericanspeed.com/1915-Board-Track-Racer,2017.html

Yup...one of the cool things you get to know if you work on real cars too...