Ace-Garageguy

Geez...that Olds is gorgeous. I mean really really fine. Man. Damm.

Thanks Ira, Johann, Ray, Alyn, Chris, Andy, Carl and Mark. You guys' feedback really means a lot. Alyn, I hope the primer looked good on the monitor...and Andy, thanks for the link. I didn't have a shot of the car from exactly that high-front angle, and it's helping me to better locate the fuel-filler access panels, as well as correcting an error I made on the front fender widths. I was shooting a bike tank, last thing before I move the compressor to the new location, and had some extra 2K Acme urethane primer in the gun. It's kinda cheating, 'cause this stuff is almost like spray-bondo, quite self-leveling, and really easy to sand. Shot from a conventional big-car gravity-feed HVLP primer gun. The big blob on the center panel is where a persistent air bubble in the epoxy / micro-balloon filler kept reappearing. I buried the little bugger. And sorry about the blurry pix. Hand-held shots in available light, slow shutter.

Didn't get there myself, but my dad brought me back a souvenir model kit of the Space Needle. Still have it, assembled by me, not too terribly badly done.

You mean this?? https://www.google.com/search?q=future+floor+wax&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a Unless you're in Turkey, in which case it's Gelecek Kat Parlatıcı... Or maybe maybe France...Service de plancher Future Or Russia...Будущие обуви этаж

If you're just looking for a good longblock for a Ford 302 (block, heads, timing cover, etc.) and you're going to modify it to a race motor, any of the Revell '32 Ford kits have nicely done engines. One of the best Borg Warner T-10s I've seen comes in the AMT engine parts packs...this one It's also in the earlier Blueprinter engine pack that has the custom grilles.

And thank you too. Stay tuned for primer shots, coming soon to a monitor near you...

Thank you very much, sir. I really appreciate it. It was harder that I thought it would be, that's for sure.

Thanks again to everyone who's encouraged this build. That's a GREAT idea...I'll be watching for that one. And thanks for the kind words. Thanks Ken. That means a lot, especially after seeing your work on the Ferrari.

Yes, that's the only one I'm aware of (unless you count the awful one in the Pyro / Lindberg '48 Lincoln) but I'm pretty certain there's a resin copy floating around out there too...this is the Monogram version. It seems like something Replicas and Miniatures would do. Anybody know for sure?

Just about got it, close enough for primer. [/

Maybe I've just been very very lucky...but I just don't seem to have any issues with Testors One Coat lacquers, other than the huge bass-boat flake. I've put this model up a bazillion times to illustrate what Testors rattle-can paint can look like, with no colorsanding (clear-sanding actually) or polishing done when these photos were shot. After the top-chop and bodywork were completed, I scrubbed the model with Comet, hot water and an old toothbrush. The model was then primered with Duplicolor High-Build gray primer, 3 coats, allowed to dry THOROUGHLY, wetsanded with 600 or 800 grit to level the surface and block out any orange peel or panel waviness. Primered again the same way, wetsanded again the same way. Final-primered with Duplicolor Sandable white, two medium wet coats to encourage flow. Wetsanded with 1000 or 1200, than cleaned with 70% isopropyl alcohol (which removes any surface contaminants that might cause fisheyes). Color was applied in one medium wet coat, allowed to flash off (when I checked the surface carefully for any bodywork flaws, scratches, etc.) followed by 3 coats shot full wet, allowed to flash in between coats. MINOR surface trash was sanded out wet with 1500 grit, then a final full wet flow coat was shot to even out the flake over the lightly sanded areas. 5 coats total to get full hiding and color depth (the "One Coat" name is bull). Testors Wet Look clear was shot about 2 hours after the last color coat. Again, one medium wet coat, and two full-wet coats, being VERY careful to get it wet enough to flow, but not to run. This is the as-sprayed finish...you can see a very small amount of orange peel if you look closely. PS. This was also painted in my breakfast room, with no fancy booth. Lacquers make a dry dust over everything when sprayed, so I put old sheets on the furniture. That's it. I held the body of the car in one gloved hand and rotated it, while spraying with the other.

Only one I know of for sure is the Fiero.

Love it love it love it. I know nothing about this aspect of the sport...did the real car have that much engine and driver setback? Hilborn injection? A LaSalle gearbox? All those crazy pipes? Man, that's wild.

Man that's nice! The engine is one of the most believable I've ever seen. Good illustration countering the idea that plug wires the actual scale diameter look wrong. Yours seem to be in correct scale, and look perfect. The underside light weathering is perfect too. I just love this build. Man, that's nice !!

Man you build clean, time after time after time. Those are really nice.

Very pretty, very authentic, very well done. The lines of the roof, the fadeaways and the curved-rear side windows work together perfectly. Perfect color, too.

Oh yes !!! A beautiful example of what can be done with an often overlooked and criticized kit. Very very nice, entirely believable.

Love it. :)

This one...?? ebay starting bid $42, BIN $56 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMT-ERTL-Hot-Rods-3-Car-Model-Kit-8457-1-25-34-40-Ford-37-Chevy-Open-Complete-/271305232075? Here's one for $43.99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMT-ERTL-Hot-Rods-34-40-Ford-37-Chevy-3-Kits-FS-Box-Model-Car-Swap-Meet/221297111618?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D18058%26meid%3D2357564065916499218%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D8304%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D271293063907%26 Here's one ended, no bids for $24.99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-AMT-ERTL-Hot-Rods-34-40-Ford-37-Chevy-3-Model-Car-Kit-/251353101661?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item3a85cff55d

Wow, isn't that an odd coincidence...I've noticed that too. How very very strange...

Yup, they look exactly alike. You might want to check the locations of the accessories (AC, PS, alternator) for your specific application though.

There's a RARE 1/25 Revell parts pack #C1103 Buick nailhead with a manual gearbox and semi-zoomie headers. These engines ARE EXCELLENT, but the downside to the Revell nailheads (and the same ones in the Showboat) is that they have no stock parts like water pumps, front covers, or induction and exhaust systems. Mixing and matching parts, from kits like the '66 Rivera or the '32 Ford shown below, can yield an outstanding and very accurate model in any state of tune you desire. Basically the same engine (4 of them) as the Revell parts-pack version lives in the Revell Tommy Ivo "Showboat" kit, and those all have direct-port, individual-stack, mechanical fuel injection and a nice, finned timing cover. The kit also has 4 scattershield-style bellhousings, and TWO big, excellent quick-change rear ends. The oil pans have angled bottoms to accommodate the angled mounting in the Showboat chassis. The 1/25 '40 Ford AMT COUPE and SEDAN DELIVERY (NOT the TUDOR sedan, which has an Olds motor) have okay (not great) nailheads backed up with Ford 3-speed manual gearboxes. They have chain-drive blowers, too (early oval-case GMC 4-71s) The RARE AMT 1/25 double Willys / '32 Ford kit has a decent 3-carb nailhead with finned valve and plug covers. In 1/24, the Monogram Orange Hauler kit has a nailhead with a single carb, backed up with a Dynaflow automatic trans. it is a very simple engine, but looks good assembled and detailed.

I don't have any really good macro shots of paint crazing, but this is one example pulled off line...the paint here is attacking the undercoats in some areas...no telling why. It's almost the same appearance as hitting it with stripper. This is actually fiberglass gelcoat crazing, but it looks a lot like what you'll see after a few minutes, shooting a 'hot' paint over a 'soft' styrene...(minus the big cracks) This is another indicator of crazing as a result of hot paint attacking molded styrene. Some areas are more seriously affected than others, and you can often see where the 'swirls' in the plastic, created during the molding process, are accentuated by the attacking paint. It DOES sound like you're having crazing issues, as standard orange peel is the result of spraying too dry, or from too far away from the subject, and it's usually immediately visible as the paint droplets partially dry in the air, and fail to flow out on the surface. If your paint is going on wet and looking slick and glossy, and then developing a texture as it flashes, it's almost certainly a result of the solvents attacking and wrinkling the surface of the plastic itself, of the primer you're using.

Maybe I can transplant some to my head, to replace all that I've pulled out while trying to get the shapes right on this thing.

You're right...I've noticed the same thing. I've read just about everything published that I could find on the history of the car, and I still don't have dates to go with a lot of the pictures floating around. Scoops and openings in the body appear and disappear, and the color seems to have changed from a very light blue to the sky blue usually shown on the first iteration. I'm sure there was a lot of R&D done during the run up to the record attempts.