Ace-Garageguy

I think that's how my last ex found most of her dates. Years ago, I had both an Eagle Kammback 4by and a '67 V8 4by Wagoneer. In retrospect, I wish I'd held on to those and let some of the others go. The little Kammback was a hoot to drive around, being basically a jacked up 4WD Gremlin. It got a lot of smiles.

When I'm doing a test, I usually shoot the first coat wet, as wet as I can without running it. I know this goes against the prevailing wisdom of shooting light or mist coats first, but it shows immediately if there's any chance whatsoever of a crazing problem. The enamel stink is about gone now, a little over a week after shooting it. I'm going to put it in the sun to try to harden it a little more and then sand / polish / photograph. No matter what the outcome, I'll hit the whole panel with oven cleaner and see what happens then.

Exactly. I don't live in a high crime area. There's almost no violent crime of any kind. A little more than two years ago, while I was drowsily reading in bed late at night, two men kicked my front door open and came in screaming, after one of them had tried to climb in the bedroom window. That one was obviously whacked out of his skull on something chemical, shouting that I was in HIS house, and my warning shot failed to stop his advance. Had I not been armed and prepared to defend my person, I might very well be dead or have been beaten to the point of being a vegetable. People don't kick your door open in the middle of the night if they don't intend to do you harm. I had no previous dealings with the perpetrators, one of whom got away clean and was never apprehended. The incident is a matter of public record. Until you've been in a situation facing a person whose sole intent is to do violence to you, I can see how it may be possible to be ambivalent about gun ownership. After you've been there, you will have no doubt whatsoever.

Interesting stuff, Snake. I have to admit that one of the things that appealed to me about using this stuff was my assumption it will strip very easily in the event it fails to provide satisfactory results.

Yeah, but it's a really light weight Ford with a big V8 engine. Sortof a Cobra in spirit. I know, it's a stretch.

Hey man, no offense intended, seriously. Hope you'll accept my apology if you took it otherwise.

Thanks for the input. Good to know there may be an adhesion issue when masking over it.

I agree. Beautifully clean work.

For a taking a poop. Seriously, it really is a beautiful spot. I envy you having access to such untouched country. Hopefully, within two years I'll be living somewhere where 4WD is a necessity rather than an urban showoff toy.

I know some suburbanites who couldn't tell a deer from a bear unless there's an app for it.

Scott, I believe you're a natural.

Already touched on that one above. Pontiac valve covers in the series this would represent have rounder corners... However, after seeing a full-on rear shot of the engine in question on the OP's actual build thread, I see it lacks the characteristic block extension of an Olds engine. The OP engine does have the starter and oil filter configured about right for a Pontiac, and the backside of the block is similar. The shape of the valve covers is wrong, and there's no timing cover or water pump to make a better identification. The mounts bolt to the center of a Pontiac block, while the OP engine shows mounts at the extreme front of the block. The front of a Pontiac oil pan has a completely unique shape, different from any other engine. The front of a Pontiac engine of the right vintage turns down at about a 30 degree angle where it bolts to the timing cover, and this feature is missing from the OP engine. Conclusion: the OP's engine in question is a generic V8 with similarities to several specific engines, but not a particularly accurate model of ANY of them.

Maybe because they're in South America.

Holy cow. Wow Ed. That's incredible. Nice capture.

In this case, I've got the stuff and it's a damm close match for a color I want for a specific project. And...lotsa modelers are, let's say...frugal when it comes to buying materials and paint. Never hurts to know something cheap that can look as good as the expensive stuff. Even top-line paints need sanding and polishing to look their best usually.

Cow farts. http://www.todayifoundout.com/index.php/2014/04/cow-farts-really-significantly-contribute-global-warming/

Maybe it was goin' in...

Too bad people don't pay more attention to this one.

I bought several cans of this ultra-cheapo stuff several years ago to do a Q&D camo job on some tarps. I had a couple cans left over and sprayed out a little color a few days back. Though the monitor may not show it, it's a pretty good match for a '51-'54 Ford commercial color I wanted to do a pickup in, and certainly close enough to represent a repaint. The bare plastic was scuffed with a generic Comet equivalent, washed with 70% iso, and then received 4 coats of paint at about 15 minute intervals. It was slicker than snot initially. After drying about an hour, it still looked pretty good. After shrinking in for a couple of days, it's not as nice, but still acceptable as a starting point. A little 'grain' has showed up in it, and small particles of dust have become more visible. After almost a week, it still looks pretty much the same. As soon as the enamel smell goes almost entirely away, the plan is to wetsand it and polish. We'll see how she looks then.

My guess is that you may really like lacquer, depending on exactly what you got. In general it dries much quicker and is easier to apply without getting runs. Since it dries quicker, you usually don't tend to get as much dust in it either. Testors Model Master line is a quality product overall, but it's important to know if you have the "one coat" metallic paint, or the basecoats that are intended to be clearcoated for optimum gloss. Testors Model Master lacquer line has around 70 colors that match OEM real car colors, but I believe all or most of them require a clear top coat.

Mockup looks really good. It's tough to fit a big six in a frame configured for a nice short V8. Liking your blower idea too.

Man, this is really cool. I missed it earlier, but I've wondered for a long time what was in the box. The wheels and backing plates you've made look great. It also looks like I told you wrong about that engine being an Olds. Seeing it from the rear, I see it doesn't have the characteristic Olds block extension. All the Olds engines I mentioned have this rear end. Verdict: It's a generic V8, kinda like a lot of engines but none in particular. Still, from what I can see, it's going to look great when you get it finished.

Funny thing with THAT one is that the atmosphere IS measurably warmer (about 1.5 deg. F since 1880) and the sea levels ARE rising and glaciers ARE disappearing. That's the facts, not politicized hoopla and endlessly regurgitated opinions. I don't agree OR disagree that human activity is the CAUSE, but the cause doesn't matter as far as the reality of the situation goes. It's real. But it's not so apparent from this perspective.

Well see Joe, there's undeniable PROOF that Leonardo was an alien, and if not, all his inventions weren't original strokes of pure genius, but were really reverse-engineered from alien artifacts.

For all the complaining some of us do about kit accuracy (guilty) I think there really are a lot of kits out there that did a remarkably good job of capturing the proportions of the 1:1 not mentioned earlier. Revell's ancient Anglia drag car comes to mind, and the original issue Revell '31 Ford woody and all its derivatives including the little '29 pickups. The Revell Willys drag cars hit all the marks very well, as well as Revell's '48 Ford woody and AMT's '41. I'd have to nominate AMT's '53 Ford pickup and their '49 Mercury too. Revell's old parts-pack engines are dead-on accurate dimensionally also. I've measured several of them against 1:1s. And as complex as the old Revell Orange Crate kit is, it's STILL very accurate and looks just like the real one. Hmmm...I'm seeing a trend here. These are old-old-old-tool kits. Pre CAD, rapid-prototyping, scanner, Chinese production (and engineering / design?) etc. How very odd.