Monty

I'm way behind most of you guys when it comes to drag racing details, but at some point in the near future I'll be starting an early '70s funny car. As regards painting, I'm curious how the underside of the car body should look. Were these typically fiberglass bodies? If so, should I try and replicate raw fiberglass, or were they primed and painted as well?

Having built this kit as a kid, I was elated when Round2 re-released the old AMT Mach Won funny car. It had been my holy grail kit for decades, but I couldn't swing the $175.00+ that it usually sold for on Ebay. That said, I was beyond disappointed that the new release didn't include the original decals that helped make the car so appealing to me as a youngster. I've tried finding the decals but they're rare and would probably be problematic given their age, so I’m hoping one of you with a full set can post a pic with a ruler or something similar on the bottom and side of the pic. I'm going to try and work with a decal maker to reproduce them, but getting the dimensions correct will be critical.

I just joined the club the other day. Got a notice on my phone that my EZ Pass "account" was in arrears and needed to be paid immediately. I used EZ Pass years ago while living in Dallas, but made sure I had no remaining debts before I left for a tiny town in the Midwest. I couldn't tell you where the nearest toll road was out here. Just out of curiosity, I looked up the area code for the phone number they provided - NY state. Never been there, never going to go there.

Always nice to see a well built Western Star on here as they're generally underrepresented. Sounds like you've got the trifecta of model building working for you: 1) Talent/ability 2) Encouragement from others 3) Localized 3D-printed specialty items that help set your model apart. Would you mind telling us which exact paint you used for the truck body (ex: Model Master #1619)? Looks like a gorgeous shade.

More often than not, when I want some entertainment, I go on YouTube. Problem: almost everything is loaded with ads, which I can't stand (haven't watched TV in over two years 'cuzza that). There are (supposedly) some very good ad blockers out there, but there are rumors that YouTube may not let you access content if you have one, and I'm not going to "upgrade" to YouTube's ad-free option. Recommendations? Bonus question: also need an ad blocker for my iphone (mostly for YouTube). Will most/all work with Apple stuff?

My older brother is interested in getting one but doesn’t know where to find the most reliable information to help him choose the right unit. His biggest priorities are reliability and ease of use. Any helpful info would be greatly appreciated.

I know the OP is long gone, but I wish we could see more pics of this build. I've never been a fan of this kit but I love the color combo and layout. Am I wrong in thinking he glued the doors shut? I recall them being tough to line up with the body while still being able to open and close.

Barbados Rex used to recommend that stuff for all kinds of paint (lacquer, enamel & acrylic) and now has his own version which he says is slightly better. Hmmm, just checked and the supplier (Robot Kai) is also out.

MCW Verdoro Green (Pontiac color) would be very close.

And we have a winner! Pic found. Thanks!

I don't know much about movies or actors but I need to know the name of this person so I can find this pic in un-memed form. (Google-eye couldn't seem to find one) It'll eventually be used to create a meme. ^^^Not my meme BTW.

Another great build! Thanks for the inspiration!

No, this would be more along the lines of inserting part of one picture (most likely a person) into another picture. I currently use a mememaker for single pictures. It not only allows me to add words, it gives me dozens of font options.

I may be in need of someone who does Photoshop well. I’ve mentioned before that another hobby I enjoy is making memes, but I’ve found I can’t always rely on Google images to create the message I want to convey. The kinds of things I’d be asking you to do wouldn’t be difficult but they will usually be very political in nature. OTOH, they may not be requested all that frequently, depending on what ideas I come up with. If interested, send me a PM and give me some idea how much something like this might cost. And no, I don’t have the time or inclination to learn PS.

Yeah, I kinda surmised that but was hoping to see how much darker the paint(s) would appear.

Thanks for posting that picture. I usually keep up pretty well on certain paint lines, but I wasn't even aware Tamiya made a pearl yellow. (great color - mental note made). Here's kinda what's driving this question: I've never liked Tamiya Pearl Green, Pearl Light Red or Pearl Light Blue, but I was wondering if spraying them over a black base would change them up noticeably, giving me a couple more color options.

IIRC, they offer pearl red, pearl blue and pearl green. I'm curious how much the color would darken (if at all) if sprayed over a black primer. I don't have any of these, and won't be buying any unless I like the outcome. If you've done this and have pics, I'd love to see them.

The gauges in the kit's center cluster are fairly small, so I'd like to avoid using anything that might make them harder to see. Think back to what old-school Testors clear lacquer would do to a white paint job over time.

1) You'd think I would know this at this point, but it seems things have changed over the years, so... Going back decades ago, some innovative people discovered that putting a clear substance (clear enamel, epoxy etc) over the faces of individual gauges made them look more like the 1:1 units. While this still holds true in principle, the use of many of these substances eventually diminished because they would yellow over time. What are you guys using that has stood the test of time by keeping its original clarity? 2) This is the stock gauge cluster and surround for a 1980 Corvette I want to replicate my old 'Vette using a 1/25 MPC kit, but the gauge thing has me stymied. Are there correct (black) decal gauges that will fit in these holes and still be fairly legible?

No idea. I had to ditch all my old magazines in my last move. If memory serves, it wasn't all that difficult: Note how the actual grille area is basically a rectangle? From the pictures I've found, International kept this rectangular grille area design throughout the Scout's production run, so at minimum you'll want to end up with a straight line across the front of the hood and a straight line across the top of the grille area. The basic changes you'll need to do start with filing off the "arch" above the kit grille piece and gluing/shaping Evergreen or Plastruct styrene to fill in the "arch" under the front edge of the hood. To match the 1:1 grille area correctly, you will probably need a needle file set (if you don't have one, they aren't that expensive). Once you've done the plastic surgery, lightly prime both areas to check for issues that might need further sanding as you don't want any glue seams showing here. If OK, you should be set to apply paint. The hood/body should be like any other kit, while you may want to use a fine brush to do the outside edges of the grille area. ^^^These are vague recollections of the article, but should result in a more accurate build. I never got to build my Scout as I traded it off years ago. Hope yours turns out well. Anyone with real experience doing this fix? Please chime in.

Given the incorrect curvature of the top of the grille/front of the hood, I've never understood how someone at Ertl greenlighted this kit Years ago, the other leading model magazine had a great article that explained how to correct this without a whole lot of effort, but even without that, most builds I see are straight OOB. Glad you were able to find a solution to your issue, as it will add a lot more realism to the overall appearance.

Rich, having seen what you do with your race car kits, I'm not surprised to see that same standard applied to this old Corvette. Great job! Kudos also for listing the "paint" (ink!) you used. I wish everybody would do that. I've noticed that, other than MPCs, the vast majority of 1/25 C3 Corvettes don't have poseable steering. As shown in your pics, it definitely adds something to a build. I wonder if you could be talked into posting some kind of tutorial so other modelers can add this to enhance their models as well.

Nice catch! As king of the spelling Nawtsees it's rare for me to make a typo, but when I do it's when I get on the computer without putting my contacts in first. At least I know better than to try and drive without them.