Fat Brian

One other thing you will notice when you put the glass in is that the drivers side quarter window frame is the wrong shape. It trails down toward the rear when it should be flat on the bottom. I didn't notcie it until after mine was painted and I couldn't fix it.

They must have really helped him when he rolled it over. http://t1.gstatic.co...ET3LDkx1KR0qRYl

You can make it out of styrene stock, use flat stock for all the parts by cutting the piece for the main rail and then add the top and bottom. Or you can try to find some C channel that matches the size of the kit frame, or you can try I beam and cut one side of it flat. Stretch the frame in the middle where you won't mess up the mounting points for the front or rear suspension. Use really good glue like tenax or pro weld to bond the plastic together and be SURE to keep it straight.

I need to make a chain drive for a winch and I want to use something like bicycle chain. Its alright if it looks a tad big, it can be industrial or motorcycle chain.

Your truck is really cool, I think I'm going for something rattyer though. http://www.killbille...43&d=1241337150

Thank you for the heads up on Dakotah toys, I've been wanting to build a replica of the Krimson Krusher monster truck for ever but couldn't justify spending hundreds of dollars on tractor models just to rob the rear tires.

I did some more work to the engine, tomorrow I will work on the front and rear gear sets. I made a quick and rough mock up of the bed out some balsa wood to kind of get a feel for what it would look like. I still don't know what wheels to use, I want some thing sort of industrial but classic. I'm thinking of finding some 1/32 dayton semi style wheels or maybe some military-esque duece and a half wheels.

I've always liked BBS LM style wheels, I would have bought a set for my Lexus if I could have made the offset work. I know the blue wouldn't work, maybe something like a polished aluminium.

Yikes, that's not good. I've noticed your hand meat is no where near as tough as styrene when it comes to pointy objects.

The split window started in 37, I'd say the whole car is a 37 or 38.

I did some testing today and decided to try to pump up the size of and existing engine to see what I would get. I took a Chevy stovebolt six and widened it about three scale inches and raised the head by the same amount. I think with some more work I can make this into a respectable, if not 100% down to the nuts and bolts correct, Detroit 4 53.

I'm just getting started on this, still kind of feeling it out and getting parts together. So far I have chopped the top about six inches and sectioned the cab about 3 inches. I will probably channel it some but I'm running out of room in the cab to do much more. I'm going to use the wrecker parts from the kit but I want to build a wooden bed and some other stuff for it. I'm having the most difficulty finding the engine I want. I want to use a Detroit 3 53 or 4 53 inline engine but I don't thing one has been done yet, Sourkraut did a 4 71 but they''re gone now. Anyone know where I can find a reasonable facsimile of a Detroit 53 series?

Thanks Dave and Harry that's what I needed, I wanted a way to gray the wood in a natural appearing way. I will go pick up some basswood too, the grain of balsa has never looked scale to me but I didn't really know what else to go with.

How do I get a good aged look to balsa wood ? I'm going to start on a rat rod truck and want to do a bed that looks like it's made of scrap wood.

I don't have any numbness but it does occasionally still kind of hurt, it's an odd dull throbbing. I don't think going to the dr would have done anything though, once the damage is done stitches won't fix it. I still have a scar too, it faint and kind of blends in with my finger prints but it's still somewhat visible.

The front of the differential is cast iron and not always painted like the rest of the axle and therefore rusts. It's the same with some power steering gear boxes, my 08 Dodge Ram work truck came with the power steering gear box bare cast iron and it is a nice shade of rust now.

I own six electrics, one acoustic, and two basses and can't play a lick. I'll get around to learning one day, maybe when I finish all those models in the basement.

What kind of engine are you trying to swap in? Is it the engine from a period hot rod or a modern muscle car? The difficulty of the swap depends greatly on the kind of engine you want. Modern engines tend to have longer and thicker transmissions and require you to relocate the transmission crossmember most times.

Agreed, that is a 37 or 38 Ford. Both years have the inverted rain drop shape of the headlights molded into the fenders. Earlier and they were closer to the 32 style and starting in 39 they had been totally moved into the fenders and were on the outer edge of the fender instead of the inner edge.

Wow, that's a GMC twin six. It's two GMC 351ci v6 heavy truck engines stuck together at the factory for use in fire trucks and other industrial vehicles.

I don't think military, aviation, and naval modeling are going away. The only way to have access to these subjects is in scale unless you live near the Army Ordinance Museum an the Aberdeen Proving Grounds, the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum, or one of the few maritime museums. According to conversations with shop owners in my area car modelers are far outweighed by the other three.

I was redoing a previous build and needed to remove the carbs from the intake I had used before. No matter how hard I tried I could not break the carb off so I decided to cut it off with my knife. Holding the manifold in my left hand I pressed harder and harder until, POP! The carb went flying across the room but I didn't care because I had almost cut my thumb in two. The knife went in about the middle of the tip of my thumb and sliced horizontally through to just behind the end of the nail. I couldn't have cut it cleaner with a scalpel. And blood, oh my God the blood, it bled for hours. I probably should have gotten stitches but didn't, I thought it was never going to heal.

Do you still have that piece of Aerodyne roof you cut off?

The wheels and tires are easily the weakest part of this kit, everyhting else is pretty nice. If I do another one I will replace the wheels and tires for sure.

The guys on the HAMB don't play, you have to wear your big boy britches if you want to post there.