Fat Brian

You have a point here, I have a 1/72 Dragon Sherman "Easy 8" with only one side of the suspension done. I don't know if the other side will ever be completed, I just don't know if I can subject myself to all of those tiny parts again. There is a point of diminishing returns with super heavy detail, where the parts are so complex it's just not fun anymore.

The Monogram 70 Roadrunner has a kind of dog dish wheels, I believe they were mainly for police cars though. Here is a link to a resin set that is very close to what the Roadrunner has: http://www.banditresins.com/mopar_police_wheels.html

In the past when I've sold items I waited until they recieved their item and left feedback before I left anything. The transaction can still go south after the buyer has paid so giving feedback once payment is recieved is too early for me. I've only had one transaction go poorly and I was the buyer, it took almost four months to get an item shipped after a prompt payment.

A quick way to test would be to only paint a small part of the body and then let it dry. If you don't get the grianular texture on the small area then its overspray, if you do it has to be something in the paint. If it turns out to be in the paint I would get a different brand and see if happens with it.

On a side note, does it throw anyone else that Dario Franchitti has a Scottish accent? I don't watch the Indy series enough for that to stay current in my mind and it gets me every time.

I watched Indy and the 600 Sunday and have to say I enjoyed Indy far more. It was just a better race this year, I was really hoping Tony Kanaan could have won but his restarts were so slow he couldn't stay in the lead.

Testors paint is fairly easy to strip, Purple Power, Castrol Superclean, LA's Totally Awesome, and oven cleaner are some of the many options. I imagine Simple Green would work, try testing it on a scrap piece of plastic to be sure it is safe first.

Those would work fine, what are they made of?

Definitely switch the hood to the other body, that way you can also build it with an opening hood without have to make any more cuts.

Who makes the best super singles? I need some for a build I'm planning and don't want to waste my money. I don't care if they are resin or rubber/vinyl but I would like them to fit AMT wheels.

I have to be good, if I start buying any more different kinds of models my wife will smother me with my pillow one night.

I see quite a bit I'll get, the Road Runner, GSX, Camaro, both Firebirds, 93 Mustang, Boothill Express, and probably some more. I have a few of these already but I kind of want a fresh start on some of them, I wonder if the Daytona will be the full Promodeler kit with all of the stock car stuff?

The Revell 70 Torino would get you the right chassis and maybe close on the interior.

The front ends are a little different. The hoods are the same and the light location is fine, all of the changes are below the headlights. 73 front 74 front

The rear of the 73 and 74 are the same except for the lights, they both have the notch in the corners of the trunk lid and the tail light panel raises at the ends. In 75 the trunk has square corners and its flat across the end with rectangle lights, this design lasted until 77.

I use photobucket for posting pics online. As far as offline organization if I have several of the same kit boxes I write on the box in sharpie what is happening in each box. Otherwise I put a post it on the inside of the box lid with the general direction of each build scrawled on it.

73 definitely, the round tail lights make the rear of that car. And no bumperettes.

My Mack got here today with my wheels, maybe now I can make some better progress since my rolling stock is pinned down. I'm going to z the frame behind the cab to lower it at least half an inch, it may just have to ride kind of high due to the wheels being tall. Getting the front down is no problem, a standard monoleaf with a deeply scooped axle will be fine, the rear might be an issue due to trying to be low but not wanting to mount the axle directly to the frame.

Here is a thread from the Lexus forum I'm on that shows pictures of Plasti-dip being used to black out the emblems on a few cars. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-second-generation/527165-diy-matte-black-emblems-plastidip-no-emblem-removal-required.html

But it doesn't have the performance of the Viper or Vette to make the impracticality worth it. The Prowler has been out of production since '02, how many ten year old dailly driven Dodge products in good shape do you see in a day, probably not many. If that Prowler has been driven daily it's most likely just a clapped out ten year old car to its owner.

I guess when the new wears off and you're left with a car even less practical than the Dodge Neon that was cannabalized to built it you probably wouldn't wash it either.

Dying their pets wild colors is popular in some circles, first world problems I guess.

Here is a thread about it from a few months ago: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50321

You just need to glue some styrene strip along the edge where its cut. Use good glue like Tenax and give it a day or so to dry so its solid when you go to sand it. You can follow the contour of the rear part that is still there to put the correct curve in it and then rescribe the door line. It's not that bad to fix but this is also a fairly easyily obtainable kit, I saw a few at Hobby Lobby last week. Print you off a 40% off coupon and buy yourself a new one, the cammer parts are worth it if you add them to a better block from a newer FE motored kit.

I had originally traded for some Pegasus wheels that look like semi wheels: But the more I looked at them the more I wanted something else, even weathered they might not look right. So I got the Mack AC wheels, they won't be much for comfort but are very stylish.