slownlow

Nice!

Yes. After all the research I did on the net your suggestions were invaluable and the ones I followed. Many thanks.

This is the end result of the post “clamping quandry” from Dec 8 the tips tricks ….. category. The grill is the stock one with the center bar removed and a Corvette type fitted in. The wheels are the stock ones from MPC 67 GTO. To get her lower I “channeled” it by taking about .125” out of the interior tub plus adding blocks to the rear springs and using the kit supplied lowered front spindles. Channeling also needed a section taken out of the front inner wheel wells. Lowering brought the carbs above the hood but with the help of a false fingernail that issue became an asset. I wanted a sun visor to add attitude and molded one into the roofline. I don’t know why I spend a lot of time on interiors as they become hard to see when the car is done. Anyway we do this for the fun, right.

There seems to be misunderstanding about my reason for clamping. This technique is to hold seams in alignment while the glue dries. The cuts serve two purposes. One is to remove material. The second is to relieve stresses and as modeling plastic is not a rigid material it will tolerate some distortion with no ill effects. The Mercury pictured has a pie section just below the contour line starting at the front of edge of the doors and growing to 1/8” at the back. A stress point is created at the front as the two portions are brought together. The model is 20+ years old and is showing no ill effects.

Lead sleds forever. Following the suggestions from Sledsel I’m chopping a Fleetline. Various makes and models have suffered under my knife but this is my first slope style. These are the cut lines and things worked out nicely. To add some attitude a visor is added. Rather than the store bought look I blended it into the roof line To get the stance I’m looking for the body need to be channeled. Fairly straightforward to accomplish by shaving some of the interior. The front wheel wells, however, are a different story. The easiest way to section is to remove material from the flattest or widest area but the wells needed some thinking. Now she’s beginning to look like something

Just when you think you’ve come up with something new.

Maybe I should have included a picture of the other side too. The wires are fed through pre drilled holes and then twisted together. The loop created becomes smaller as the wires are twisted and the gap between the panels closes and tends to maintain the curvature of the panels.

I had a situation where I needed to clamp an area where none of the clamps I had would work. Then remembered how my dad repaired a cracked canoe paddle. It worked well and the only refinement would be to create an X

Saw this today at a parade in Amana Iowa

I’m building an old kit and the decals crumble in the water. I’ve heard of a product that can be applied to the sheet to prevent this. Does anyone know what it is and where it might be available?

Saw this old girl parked, strangely enough, in front of the local senior center

That’s it! And it looks like I guessed right here’s a pic of it glued on. Thanks guys

I’m questioning the orientation of the torque converter air intake, part 91, on the direction sheet. Then panel showing it in place isn’t real clear This is a pic of how I think it’s supposed to go, attached on the red dot. Is anyone familiar with this kit or have knowledge of the 1:1 trany? Thanks

On the way to Marshalltown, Iowa And in Marshalltown

Here’s what can be done with 2mm half round and 0.8 mm round.

Thanks Stitchdup

I’m wondering if there is a source for club plates. I’m thinking like “Asphalt Outlaws” or “Rod Busters”. You get the idea. Some were provided as an extra on the parts trees of some kits but I’m looking for a source of individual plates. I know I can make a simple mold from those kit supplied ones.

Great work displayed here. One thing I’ve notice on other subjects though is a lack of consistency. If the body and fenders show wear and tear don’t neglect the tires, rims and hubcaps too.

Thank you all for the kind words. It certainly was a long and winding road.

Thanks, The chain came from Michael’s not sure what the original purpose was but it looks right. To get the “under tension” look I super glued it but was stumped on how to loop it over the axels. Then read superglue won’t stick to WD40 so a liberal coating on the axels and success. Now the chains can be removed at will.

Stick a fork in, they’re as done as they’re gonna get.

Here’s where I’m at nowThe Moon Discs are from Parts By Park. He has a nice variety of after market parts.Because the truck was looking kind of drab she got a Mexican blanket for the seat. Now on with making some sort of tie downs to keep the car on the truck. The trick will be making it so the car can still be removed.

I always struggle with very small parts. I know there is some tool jewelers use but not sure what to look for. In the meantime I found wetting a medium small paint brush will give enough surface tension to pick up a piece and position it.

See my very first posting in this topic I identify my source there. At the time I got mine there was only one left but they may have recast more. You might also try a search for 3D printed sources.

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll definitely get it straight from Bare Metal Foil in the future.