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using aluminum foil


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So I have been thinking about creating some parts for my current build out of standard store brand aluminum foil (door panels that are mentioned to mimic aluminum sheet, simply engine tin heat shields) but I'm not sure if it will paint very well. Has any one used foil for parts that are meant for paint? What was your results?

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I'm building a Baja bug with chrome don't get you home style so I want the engine tins painted blue along with the doghouse. I am also trying to create an interior because this kit doesn't include any for off door paneling. I don't have any poly styrene and don't see the budget allowing it anytime soon so I was thinking the foil could be a good option in its place.

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So I have been thinking about creating some parts for my current build out of standard store brand aluminum foil (door panels that are mentioned to mimic aluminum sheet, simply engine tin heat shields) but I'm not sure if it will paint very well. Has any one used foil for parts that are meant for paint? What was your results?

The thin aluminum from a soda can would actually work better than foil, due to its being a harder aluminum alloy. Just cut a can apart, then use fine grit sandpaper to strip off the printed graphics, and either leave it a brushed finish, or polish it before you shape it into the shields you want to make, perhaps. That stuff is very thin, but will hold a shape far better than Reynolds Wrap, in my experience.

Art

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A pack of .010 thk x 4 x 12 Evergreen sheet styrene (4 sheets I think) is usually about 4 bucks, not that expensive. On that note, I built a 1/16th scale '56 post car out of a '55 hardtop and the side windows are "Please Do Not Smoke" placards from motel rooms. Most of the car was built on the road going to and from model shows...

Mark

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A pack of .010 thk x 4 x 12 Evergreen sheet styrene (4 sheets I think) is usually about 4 bucks, not that expensive. On that note, I built a 1/16th scale '56 post car out of a '55 hardtop and the side windows are "Please Do Not Smoke" placards from motel rooms. Most of the car was built on the road going to and from model shows...

Thanks for the cost info. I have to be honest I did not research the cost of the styrene before posting. (Now I feel a little stupid. Lol) around the 10$ or less tame is rather doable actually. I just need to find a retailer for it . I love in San Tan valley AZ so other than Walmart or Fry's (Kroger) I'm a good 20+ miles from anything remotely model related. I'll need to try hobby lobby the next time I'm out. But great suggestion with the signs too.

Mark

And watch your fingers! The edge of a cut can is pretty sharp. I expect you can guess how I know...

All the best,

Matt

Yeah Matt I'm familiar with the sharp edges (probably for the same reason) I have used soda/beer cans for years for a number of things. Building a body for my 10th scale r/c rock crawler so it would show off road damage, in the field exhaust repair... I actually made a 10mm wrench to repair my humvee out of energy drink cans in Afghanistan one time. It took almost 20 minutes and I went through like six cams to do it, but hey it worked and it only cost me one major cut on my pointer finger. Lol. Good old super glue fixed that.
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Wow I messed that up! Mark I responded to your comment but the response is added to the quote. Lol.

Bye the way the build I'm working on that this question was for is in the workbench section under 63 Baja please check out out leave some comments. (It hasn't shown to be a popular thread yet) I don't have much in there right now but will be updating more.

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Aluminum flashing for house roofs also can work very well for interior panels on race cars. Depending on the exact product, it often has a "brushed" and clear anodized surface. Again, depending on the specific product, the stuff can look much like the real thing. It's more rigid than either pie pans or foil. It's cheap too.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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