Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Posted May 18, 2015 I actually thought about doing it that way. Maybe still the way to go. Hmmm.... I'll have to think on this one,
landman Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 I actually thought about doing it that way. Maybe still the way to go. Hmmm.... I'll have to think on this one, That is how a lot of high end British cars carried their tools, imbedded in the trunk lid. Could work with the guns and less chance of rattles.
sjordan2 Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 That is how a lot of high end British cars carried their tools, imbedded in the trunk lid. Could work with the guns and less chance of rattles. Actually, that's how the toolkit is arranged in this kit. Might be easier to just make a lift-up trap door in the back of the floor. BTW, I spent some time looking for 1/16 guns without success.
chunkypeanutbutter Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 I suppose you could check action figures at Walmart and such for guns.
Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Posted May 18, 2015 I'm going to stick with my original idea... the slide-out tray/drawer. Because I think it would be cool to have that... But if I can't figure out how to make the full-extension slides, I'll go with the tray on the back side of the tailgate door. And I guess I'll have to scratchbuild the guns.
ferrarijoe Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 Harry here are some 1/16 rifles www.reedeesminiatures.co.uk/gallery/1-16
sjordan2 Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 Here's another way to look at it. Color scheme looks similar to yours. That picnic set could keep you busy for weeks.
Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Posted May 18, 2015 Harry here are some 1/16 rifles www.reedeesminiatures.co.uk/gallery/1-16 Aha! So they do exist! Thanks for the link.
sjordan2 Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 Aha! So they do exist! Thanks for the link. You can have it both ways. The Purdey shotgun case for birds, and a rifle carry case for deer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-MEXICAN-LEATHER-GUN-CASE-rifle-deer-scene-hunting-wool-lined-shotgun-tooled-/361297079373?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541efbec4d
Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Posted May 18, 2015 This thing is killing me. Just like I knew it would. The further along I get, the more problems and unexpected situations pop up. When you're dealing with this many different pieces of wood that all have to fit together perfectly and make a cohesive design, there are a million little decisions to make regarding how a certain part should be built, what sequence to build it in, what kind of joints will I use, etc. Just one example: it turns out the engine/chassis assembly can't be put into place if the cowl/firewall are already glued in place. There's just not enough room to maneuver the engine into the very tight engine bay if the firewall is there first. What that means is that my plan to build the whole body first, then add the engine/chassis last is a no-go. I'll have to glue the chassis in place first, then add the firewall/cowl so I can finish the body. What that means is that I'll have to build the doors and roof with the chassis in place, which I wanted to avoid because of all the constant handling the fender unit gets while measuring/test fitting/building the body parts. And that's just one issue... there are dozens more...
sjordan2 Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 Just a small hill for those who climb the Pocher mountains.
blunc Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 can you remove the part of the firewall (while leaving the cowl in place) that is the cause of the problem, then put that back in after the chassis/engine has been installed?
Cato Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 Just a small hill for those who climb the Pocher mountains. Similar to my thinking; the level of problem-solving here has become commensurate with Pocher work. All this effort could have been expended on the larger scale rather than a test or dress rehearsal build. Why go through this twice? I am deeply involved with altering and creating new panels for the Sedanca and your 'Brake will be no different. Possibly even easier than this 1/16 given the size of the parts once you get past the engineering. Making templates, trial fits and out-of-the box thinking are stock in trade for advanced builds such as you contemplate and I'm involved with. Plus you already have many fine Pochers under your belt which you built far from box-stock. I have no doubt you will make an excellent 1/16 Rolls out of this but would have loved to see you working at twice the size.
Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Posted May 18, 2015 If I do a 1/8 woody, at least I'll have this one to refer to as to what worked well, what didn't, what I should do the same, what I should do differently, etc. Hopefully doing it a second time will be easier. And at twice the size, much easier!
Cato Posted May 18, 2015 Posted May 18, 2015 If?? You've already got a running chassis and a good start on a beautiful interior - it's half-built right now. Jus' sayin'...
Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Posted May 18, 2015 Yeah, I'll get it done... one way or another. But in hindsight, I should have gone into this more prepared... maybe even done a set of elevation drawings. As it is, I'm just using photos for inspiration and basically making things up as I go along. Not the most productive way to have gone about it. I should have had a more solid idea of the exact building sequence before I started building. But hey... this one is just practice! The real one will be 1/8 scale.
Harry P. Posted May 18, 2015 Author Posted May 18, 2015 Speaking of making things up as I go along... My original idea was to have a pull-out drawer in that lower rear compartment under the main floor, with a set of hunting rifles in the drawer. But in order for that to be feasible, the drawer would need to be able to be pulled out all the way... to expose the entire interior of the drawer all the way to its back wall. That would require a bit of hardware called "full extension" drawer slides, which are basically a pair of three-piece telescoping slides that allow a drawer to be pulled out all the way to its back wall, yet they collapse when the drawer is closed to just the length of the drawer. Building a set of operating full-extension drawer slides in anything close to scale fidelity, and strong enough to work more than a handful of times without breaking, is a challenge that I finally decided I wasn;t going to take on. In 1/8 scale, sure. Not at half that size. So I'll go with the "gun tray on the back side of the tailgate" approach. Now the only question is whether to buy a set of scale guns or scratchbuild them.
MoparWoman Jamie Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 Harry, I might have an idea about the slides, try two pairs of C-Channels?
LaughingIndian Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 Harry here are some 1/16 rifles www.reedeesminiatures.co.uk/gallery/1-16You could always forego the whole drawer thingy and use a simple roof rack for that nifty (and available) RPG ... ?
cobraman Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 I would be interested in seeing how you handle building the rifles.
Harry P. Posted May 19, 2015 Author Posted May 19, 2015 I would be interested in seeing how you handle building the rifles. Well, if you stay tuned, you'll eventually see it.
Ken Gilkeson Posted May 19, 2015 Posted May 19, 2015 great project and job so far. I would reconsider varnish though, amber really turns the grain beautiful. clear on guitars looks cheap, my 2 cents worth anyway.
Harry P. Posted May 20, 2015 Author Posted May 20, 2015 Progress slowly but surely... I scratchbuilt the taillights. The bases are styrene, the bezels are brass tubing, the "chrome" is Spaz Stix, and the lenses are 5-minute epoxy painted with transparent red:
Harry P. Posted May 20, 2015 Author Posted May 20, 2015 I revised my design in back. Originally I was going to go with a one-piece lift-up tailgate, but changed that to a two-piece. The lower part seen here will swing down, while the upper part (the glass area) will swing up...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now