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Posted

I am building the Chevy 454 blown motor for my orange blossom special and would like to see how it is wired and plumbed, especially the fuel lines because the fuel pump is in the front and i have never done it before. If anyone could please help with the location of the wiring and the FUEL and OIL lines I would GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!! Here is a pic of the instructions. Thanks for any help given.

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Posted

Here are some motors I have built in the past, just to show I do understand them a little.

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Posted

I was going to tell you to do a search but wow, there isn't anything out there on that truck.....

It would all depend on how each engine builder plumbed their trucks back in the day.

As for plug wires it would wire up in the sequence of any Big Block Chevy. Fuel and oil lines could be wired close to other pullers would of ran in the era.

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Unfortunately the only way to get a pic of OBS 2 would of been during a tear down between runs or a shop photo as the engine was enclosed.

Not sure if I helped or not...

Posted

Thanks alot gentlemen. I asked Allen Gaines to see if he could send me a pic of it cause we are friends on facebook. mr68gts, You have helped tremendously but would love some kind of pic just to make sure i do it right, lol. I know the truck is in a museum and was going to see if they could also send me a pic, but you guys are very knowledgeable on this site and thought it would be faster. Thanks again guys.

Posted (edited)

Most old Roots-blown engines with a front-mounted fuel-injection pump will be plumbed alike, pretty much. There may be some detail differences, but they ALL work the same way. This is a general schematic for an Enderle setup, but it is pretty much the same as period Hilborn and other units too. Disregard the "port" parts of the schematics, as I believe the engine you're doing only has nozzles in the injector body itself. Also consider the "nitro metering valve" to be a "fuel metering valve", including gasoline. It's usually located on the blower in the vicinity of the injector unit, and is connected to the throttle linkage that actuates the butterflies.

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Below is a similar system, somewhat different, but basically the same. If you understand the function of the system, it's simple to do believable plumbing every time.

Note the black rectangular throttle valve (fuel-metering valve, sometimes also called "barrel valve") connected to the linkage that opens the throttle butterflies. Supply and return lines clearly run up to it from the bottom. There's a large-diameter hard-line running out the rear of the valve to a distribution block (hidden behind the hat) and smaller hard lines running to the individual injectors. Again, ALL THESE SYSTEMS DO THE SAME THING. Look at the schematics, try to understand the functions, and you've got it.

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And here you go, again. See what I mean by "same but different"? Fuel supply and return lines running from pump to throttle valve, this time on this side of the injector body, with smaller soft lines running to the individual injectors. Works the same way, does the same thing...just arranged a little differently.

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Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Posted

There was a good series of articles (a few years back in that other modeling magazine) called "Building a Monster" that explained how to wire & plumb a '70s era funny car engine. Track them down and they should give you the information your are looking for.

Posted (edited)

You don't need to worry about oil lines as it's all internal on this particular engine, fuel and ignition are the things you need, this 454 use the same 18436572 firing order as a regular Chevy V8, you can use a 7-4 swap where cylinder 7 and 4 change places in the order, a common thing on Chevy race engines.

For the fuel system, I agree with Ace, if you understand the function it's a lot easier to get it right, his post explains how the fuel system works good so if one follow that it's quite easy to plumb.

I have a couple of schematic pictures explaining the same thing, these are for Top Fuel and Funny Car Nitro burning engines, the basic layout are the same for other fuels such as Methanol or Gasoline but a Nitro engine needs a lot more fuel so they have more distribution points and larger fuel pumps.
So for a Gas or Methanol engine you can disregard the dual fuel pumps and the lines going in to the back of the cylinder heads as that's only used in nitro burning engines, some Methanol engines have fuel distribution both at the injector and at the intake manifold under the blower and some put in all the fuel at the injector only so that's up to you what system you want to use.

To further explain how a mechanical fuel system works, the fuel pump allways delivers the same ammount of fuel and you regulate how much fuel the engine gets with how much you return back to the tank, less return the engine runs rich and much return the engine runs lean, and you want to run the engine as lean as possible without burning valves or pistons as a too lean engine does just that.

Nitro works quite different as Nitromethane (CH3NO2) allready has 2 oxygene atoms bound within it wich Gasoline and Methanol doesn't have, so they try to get as much fuel as possible in to the combustion chamber to make more power, and that's why they have a lot larger fuel pumps and more fuel distribution points.

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Edited by Force
Posted

I am still wondering on the oil lines as there is an oil tank also in the rear of the truck. Those schematics are awesome and VERY helpful!!! Thanks everyone for taking time out to help me, I very much appreciate it!!

Posted (edited)

I have that kit and I don't see an oil tank anywhere in my kit, it just has an air tank on the frame, a fuel tank and a water tank on the truck bed, as there are no radiator they circulate water from the water tank to the engine and back.

After what I can see on the engine itself it's a wet sump so all the oil is inside the engine....so there are no need fro any outside oil lines, if it would have been a dry sump engine you would have had a flat shallow oil pan, a pump at one side of the engine and a not so large oil tank as you only need 5-10 quarts of oil in a dry sump system.

Edited by Force

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