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1953 Mack W-71 Integral Sleeper (AITM Cab) & Canvas Top Trailer (Scratch Built)


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Thanks for the further comments!

 

 

Absolutely gorgeous! The W71's are my favorite coe and you have done this one justice! I have a couple questions though, how did you make the door handles and guages? Also, what frame did you start with?

Superb, again. What did you use for the instrument bezels?

Incredible Build!!! What color is that, I really like it. I am looking to build an H model and that looks like the interior color that I wanted to use. I would like the information on the gauges as well. Thanks... Brian

Sam, Skip, Brian,

 

IMO this is the best way of detailing dashboard gauges:

 

  1. Remove the moulded dials and bezels from the kit dashboard. Apply dial decals.

  2. Choose a piece of bright wire, either silver wire (silver plated copper wire) or stainless steel wire. I recommend stainless steel wire because silver plating may stain sooner or later. For 1/24 scale models 0.25mm or 0.4mm diameter works depending on the actual width of the original vehicle's bezel.

  3. Choose a rod with a diameter slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the desired bezel. You can use a conic brush-handle or a set of drill bits. Wrap the wire around the rod several times. Slip this wire coil off the rod and cut it lengthwise with a pair of small scissors to produce several (slightly deformed by cutting) wire rings.

  4. Put one of these rings onto a hard and even surface and flatten it.Very probably this will not flatten the ring completely, then pick it up and press cautiously with two tweezers antagonistically. Put it back on the surface and close the remaining gap by pressing both ends together with a tweezer. Giving the ring its percect circular appearance back is amazingly easy because the wire seems to remember its former circular shape. Your first bezel is now complete.Don't worry about the remaining tiny gap. The glare of the ring makes it invisible on the dashboard, particularly when you turn the gap downwards.

  5. Apply a minimum of gel-type super glue on one or two spots of the back of the bezel and apply it onto the dial decal just to fix it provisionally. Then apply a drop of clear onto the decal for simulating glass and fixing the bezel simultaneously.

 

I am using this technique on all models (when suitable) for more than 30 years. It works in scales at least from 1/16 to 1/35.

It is easy, fast and inexpensive. It gives better results than expensive (if you find the correct diameters) PE bezels.

 

Incredible Build!!! What color is that, I really like it. I am looking to build an H model and that looks like the interior color that I wanted to use. I would like the information on the gauges as well. Thanks... Brian

Brian,

 

the exterior paint is mixed inexpensive automotive laquer, the interior paint is a mixture of several Humbrol/Revell matte and semi-gloss enamels.

I have the H 67 in my stash. The casting quality is not that bad b u t the grille is a part of the cab casting. If you search the web you will hardly find a finished model with an acceptable grille.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Man, this thing looks amazing.....Excellent work and the photography is also top notch.....This is really good....There seem to be an angle this truck doesn't look good in.....Awesome work, Dude.....And thanks for the tutorial on the dash work......That is an awesome idea......

Edited by kilrathy10
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Thanks for the recent comments!

 

My next model will be another scratch built German vintage heavy truck, namely the 1958 Mercedes LP 333, the first German twin-steer truck. Its odd appearance makes it very popular among German/European vintage truck enthusiasts. Everyone knows it by its nickname "Tausendfüssler" (= millipede). I hope that in a few weeks you will be interested again.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Juergen, your models belong to the best I have ever seen. This Mack is absolutely amazing! I already have the daycab of this model from aitm here.

Would be very happy to read your description of making better gauges. Building up the Kenworth Bullnose from Illini Replica and the dashboard is not really good.

 
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Thanks for the recent replies!

 

...

Would be very happy to read your description of making better gauges. Building up the Kenworth Bullnose from Illini Replica and the dashboard is not really good.

I am looking forward to your finished model.

If you think any further information supplementing my post of 3 August would be useful please let me know.

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