Purple Power????

[Bullitt]

I finally got my hands on a gallon of Purple Power. Had to go to Walmart in the states to get it. A 32 oz bottle on Amazon.ca $32.95, a gallon at US Walmart $4.98, I don't think our dollar is that bad.

Anyhoo, I have a '71 Cuda that needs to be stripped, hence the Purple Power. Question on the container for stripping, any preferences on  plastic (Tupperware), glass, tinfoil baking pan (lie a bread pan). Any suggestions on the best one to use?

Thanks for any input.

[Tom Geiger]

Any of the above will work.  I got a off brand tupperware shoe box. That's big enough for any model body and then some! Mine has a seal tight cover since I keep the CSC in it, rather than straining it out to put back in the bottle.

Edited September 15, 2015 by Tom Geiger

[Bullitt]

Is the PP reusable to a certain degree, or new stuff every time, of which, I hope they're won't be many.

[wayne swayze]

I've done the same as Tom. I left a cautionary note on the lid to warn anyone in my shop that it contains nasty contents.

[Mike Kucaba]

Don't use metal containers, and try and keep it in a warm area.

[disabled modeler]

I use a Tupperware cheese container been using it for years now with no problems...I also use Castrol Super Clean de-greaser straight and not mixed.

[RAT-T]

I USE THE PP FROM WALMART, I'VE USED THE SAME BATCH FOR OVER A YEAR OR SO, I KEEP IT IN AN OLD ICE CONTAINER SITTING ON MY BASEMENT FLOOR. IT GETS WEAKER AFTER A WHILE, I DO KEEP A COVER ON IT, IT WILL EVAPORATE OVER TIME.

I ALSO JUST FOUND OUT THE HARD WAY THAT WESLEY'S BLEACH WHITE WILL EAT THROUGH A CLOROX BLEECH BOTTLE

[Bullitt]

Thanks for all the input.

[ZTony8]

If you can find Super Clean(not Castrol anymore) it's a bit stronger and seems to work better.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I use Super Clean as well.

Just your standard large plastic food storage container from any grocery store works fine.

I keep a container in my shop at all times. Covered of course.

No metal containers.

 

Steve

[Tom Geiger]

Good idea.  Back when I stripped bodies with brake fluid, I had the stuff eat right through a metal loaf pan.  Of course unnoticed until it made a big rusty mess out of all the cans on that garage shelf!  Don't do that!

[Art Anderson]

I had to strip a pair of Hudsons a couple of weeks back (painted, stripped, repainted, then had to strip again!), used Purple Power for the first time.  I used one of those polyethylene plastic 2-quart pitchers with the tight fitting cover, filled it,dropped the bodies in.  The enamel paint (Scale Finishes) came off in mere seconds, the Tamiya grey primer (original reason for stripping, Scale Finishes enamel did not adhere to it!), so I just left the bodies and hoods in the PP for several days, then took them out, scrubbed the offending primer off in about 10 minutes per body and hood.

I had to strip the bodies after their second paint jobs (this time, a clear coat crinkled the paint), took the same time, same pitcher full of PP, and it took the Duplicolor red oxide primer off in about 24 hrs (some scrubbing was in order there).

This is the first time I've every used Purple Power (actually, it's been probably 35 years since I'd stripped any model car bodies), and am pretty much sold on the product.

Art

[Tom Geiger]

It's a shame that Chameleon Stripper went away.  Nothing comes close to how that worked!  

[AzTom]

I had to strip a pair of Hudsons a couple of weeks back (painted, stripped, repainted, then had to strip again!), used Purple Power for the first time.  I used one of those polyethylene plastic 2-quart pitchers with the tight fitting cover, filled it,dropped the bodies in.  The enamel paint (Scale Finishes) came off in mere seconds, the Tamiya grey primer (original reason for stripping, Scale Finishes enamel did not adhere to it!), so I just left the bodies and hoods in the PP for several days, then took them out, scrubbed the offending primer off in about 10 minutes per body and hood.

I had to strip the bodies after their second paint jobs (this time, a clear coat crinkled the paint), took the same time, same pitcher full of PP, and it took the Duplicolor red oxide primer off in about 24 hrs (some scrubbing was in order there).

This is the first time I've every used Purple Power (actually, it's been probably 35 years since I'd stripped any model car bodies), and am pretty much sold on the product.

Art

Art, What had you used in the past?  I have not tried Purple Power for several years but at the time I thought Super Clean worked better and stuck with it.

[Art Anderson]

Art, What had you used in the past?  I have not tried Purple Power for several years but at the time I thought Super Clean worked better and stuck with it.

Tom,

Seriously, this stripping job (twice on two models at the same time!) was the first time I've stripped any model car bodies in at least 25 years.  So, I went with what I could find on a Sunday afternoon.

Art

[AzTom]

I hate when that happens  

I can't remember when I had to strip one I painted, not saying they are all perfect,lol   

[Bullitt]

Dipped in Purple Power twice and rinsed the Cuda twice, still some paint left in hard to reach areas. I think I'll be OK with the repaint ( now have an airbrush, first was rattle can). The body seems to have some dark areas on it, is there a process for washing and cleaning after the purple bath, or just primer again & repaint?

[Foxer]

Is the PP reusable to a certain degree, or new stuff every time, of which, I hope they're won't be many.

I reuse it many times. It sits in my work area in a sealed tupperware container and what's there now has been there for a year or two. It still strips fine.

[Tom Geiger]

I hate when that happens  

I can't remember when I had to strip one I painted, not saying they are all perfect,lol   

Sometimes it's not your paint job, but the mess that was on the model when you bought it!  

[StevenGuthmiller]

Dipped in Purple Power twice and rinsed the Cuda twice, still some paint left in hard to reach areas. I think I'll be OK with the repaint ( now have an airbrush, first was rattle can). The body seems to have some dark areas on it, is there a process for washing and cleaning after the purple bath, or just primer again & repaint?

Make sure you wash it thoroughly with soap & water, & get as much of the old paint off as possible.

Any residue left from the stripper will interfere with paint adhesion when you repaint.

 

Steve

[Tom Geiger]

Make sure you wash it thoroughly with soap & water, & get as much of the old paint off as possible.

Any residue left from the stripper will interfere with paint adhesion when you repaint.

and that includes getting the old paint out of door and panel lines, vent grilles etc.  I always give them all a quick scribe with the back of a number 11 blade. Gets the paint and residue stripper out of the cracks as well as better defining those panel lines.

[Art Anderson]

This is where I get out my industrial "toothbrushes", the kind with longer bristles, and either heavy plastic or wooden handles.  When I had to strip my pair of '54 Hudson bodies and hoods (not once, but TWICE--but that's a story for another time!), I let the bodies stand in Purple Power for about a week.  The Scale Finishes enamels came off almost instantly, but the Tamiya grey primer (first time, NEVER again!) took the full week, and then some scrubbing, as it came off grudgingly.  Second time around, again Scale Finishes acrylic enamel, but this time with Duplicolor red oxide primer.  Enamels came off instantly, took about 3-4 days for the Duplicolor primer to soften to the point that I could scrub if off.  I had absolutely no problems getting any of the primer residues out of the panel lines, my trusty industrial toothbrushes took care of that as well.  You can find these brushes at Harbor Freight, as well as some well-stocked hardware stores, and even at flea markets and car show vendor areas (look for those vendors with all manner of cheap tools!)

Once stripped, a good wash with warm water and detergent finished the job, except for having to replace such lacquer-based spot & glaze putty as I used.

Art

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

and that includes getting the old paint out of door and panel lines, vent grilles etc.  I always give them all a quick scribe with the back of a number 11 blade. Gets the paint and residue stripper out of the cracks as well as better defining those panel lines.

Absolutely!

Any old paint left behind is contaminated with the cleaner & can cause problems with the new paint.

 

Steve