What type of CA

[sheena]

  Going to the hobby store today to pick up the right glue to use for models. Am I suppose to get the thin or thick CA glue and is that kicker worth getting while I'm there? I don't get down there too often so I'm really looking forward to getting model #2 going as well. 

[Jantrix]

There is a medium thickness, I'd go for that. And yes the kicker is worth doing. 

A safety note on using kicker. When applied to the glue there is a significant amount of heat generated. Some sort of chemical reaction. So when applying the kicker to the glue, make sure no glue has run onto your hand. It will burn you. Luckily I learned the lesson from someone elses mistake rather than my own.

[Harry Joy]

Thin CA is nothing but a pain. It flows quickly and dries too fast. I prefer medium thickness as well, or gap filling.

Also, when using the accelerator it is possible to do damage, if you've globbed a bunch of glue into a small space. And it does get hot - very briefly.

[Art Anderson]

Since the late 1980's, Goldberg SuperJet medium-viscosity CA glue has been my choice--now using Tower Hobbies house brand.  As for accelerator, for my money, NOTHING beats BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CA glue accelerator, on many counts:  It absolutely does not affect styrene plastic in any way whatsoever, including clear and chrome parts.  It has no effect whatsoever on any paint we are likely to use on a model car, enamel, lacquer, waterborne acrylics, flat, semi-gloss or gloss.  And, perhaps it's most important advantage?  BSI CA glue accelerator has eliminated all "fogging" around glue joints, period.

Art

[Ramfins59]

When using the accelerator, dip either a toothpick or piece of brass or aluminum rod into the accelerator and apply it to the spot you want instead of spraying it on...... the excess spray could "ruin" a paint job.

[Art Anderson]

When using the accelerator, dip either a toothpick or piece of brass or aluminum rod into the accelerator and apply it to the spot you want instead of spraying it on...... the excess spray could "ruin" a paint job.

Not with BSI Accelerator!  I have simply "spritzed" it on CA glue joints for a good 30 years, with NEVER any damage to plastic, paint, decals or chrome.  Other brands/types of CA accelerators may well not have this result, but BSI certainly does.  The stuff comes in transparent brown push-pump bottles in hobby shops (with the shop's name on a small brushed silver label on the bottle, along with the white printed information and brand name.  It's also available online from Tower Hobbies--both the smaller push-pump bottle and a large, 4oz bulk bottle for refilling the smaller spray bottle.

Art

[Tom Geiger]

Here's the glues that I like to use.  Right to left,  blue label is Microscale Kristal Klear. This is a white glue that's best for gluing clear parts like glass and headlight lenses. It dries clear, in fact you can put a little blob of it over instrument gauges and it will dry flat and clear, to look like glass over the gauge!   Any mess up cleans up easily and doesn't damage plastic glass.  Middle bottle with the green label is Zap-a-gap.  This is a thick CA that's made to fill gaps when parts have a poor fit.  Soon I started using it for everything because it's thick so it's easy to put a bit on a toothpick.  And it dries slower than the thinner CAs, so you have time to adjust your parts.  Then I discovered the purple bottle.  This is that Bob Smith product that comes in a bunch of different thicknesses and drying times.  They sell it with your local hobby shop's label on it.  I like this Maxi Cure Extra Thick, it's even thicker than the Zap-a-gap.  I still like to put a little blob of glue on a surface and dip into it with a toothpick to apply to model parts.

These are my choices and reasons... your actual mileage will vary!  

[Harry Joy]

When using the accelerator, dip either a toothpick or piece of brass or aluminum rod into the accelerator and apply it to the spot you want instead of spraying it on...... the excess spray could "ruin" a paint job.

I never ever spray the accelerator. I thought my trick was my own until I mentioned to my best bud one day (also a modeler), and he does it too. I unscrew the top and use the sprayer tube to apply a touch wherever I need it. In a little time, the tube gets a little hard tip of dried CA glue globbed on it. Makes it even better.

By the way, I have an old spray bottle from years ago that I use, and I keep it only about a third full. Of all the bottles on my modeling desk, the accelerator seems to be the only one I ever knock over. I refill it from a larger bottle once in a while.

[Tom Geiger]

I bought some Great Planes accelerator not that long ago.. I sprayed it and liked how it worked. I would only use it that way on basic assembly pre paint.  I went to use it again, and it seems the entire thing evaporated... anyone else?

[peteski]

Like Art, I exclusively use the BSI accelerator (applied with micro-brush or a wooden toothpick - never sprayed).  Most other accelerator brands are either very stinky, contain acetone or other solvents which attach styrene and paints, or they work too fast (bubbling up the CA glue as it sets).

I use more than half a dozen of various adhesives - as far as just the CA goes, I use the extra thick, regular and super-thin. Usually BIS brand, but I have used others too. But I would really be lost without the super-thin CA!