'65 Plymouth Satellite...The One That Got Away

[Greg Pugh]

With that done, I then turned my focus to getting the interior wrapped up. First thing I did was finish up the console. Now if you'll remember, this was originally an Automatic so I had to modify the console plate to make the change over to a 4-speed. Then, I had to scratch build a shifter and shifter boot. Once that was done, I shot it in Alclad, painted the boot Flat Black, and hit the shift knob in Gloss White. 

I was just about to start assembling the interior when it dawned on me that the package tray is not supposed to be smooth vinyl like the seat covers are. My original Satellite had carpet in the package tray so I wasn't familiar with this situation. It was something I noticed at the last minute and I needed to come up with a plan. I first tried to mask off the seat and I painted the package tray in a flat black. When it wasn't flat enough, I tried scuffing it up with sand paper. When that didn't work, I had an idea. The package tray should have some texture anyways and I just happened to have some 600 grit sandpaper that was sitting in close proximity. I think it came out pretty good considering.

And here it is, all finished up. I also scratch built a column-mounted tach using a random piece I found out of the parts box. It was already chromed but was about three times as long as what you see. I cut this piece off, painted the gauge face, and installed it.

[Greg Pugh]

It's starting to look like a car!

[gasser59]

Yes it is looking like a real car. Great update Greg.

[Greg Pugh]

Thank you Brad!

[Greg Pugh]

Now onto the body! I've seen a couple of different discussions about how correct/incorrect the windshield opening is. From what I've read, it seems almost split in the middle. Some say it's not right while others disagree. I have looked and looked at this thing and compared it to several different photos I've found. While I'll admit that it might just be a tad off, it's certainly not off enough that it would make it worth it (to me anyways) to modify the windshield opening and come up with a new glass solution, etc. So, I'll be leaving that alone.

However, the vent windows are another story. The top of the vent window post is too far back. So we'll be addressing that.   

Here's what we're starting with:

Using a razor saw, I first made a cut right behind the post. Then, I made a cut right in front of it followed by a cut in front of that (about 1/16" roughly). I then ground out the area between the two cuts that I made in front of the post. This allowed me enough room to cut the top of the post free, coming in at it sideways. Using the razor saw again, I made a small cut at the bottom, right in front of the post so that it would swing forward/pivot easier. I also had to trim off just a little bit at the top of the post. Once I was happy with it's new position, I made it permanent with some glue:

I then used 040" styrene to fill the void in the upper part of the opening...

...and some .010" styrene to fill the cut at the bottom. A little trimming and sanding and...voila! 

My reference photo:

[Greg Pugh]

Overall, the body is pretty clean. Very minimal flash to address. The only other thing that I noticed on the body is where the fenders meet the cowl. On the real car, the fenders sweep up every-so-slightly to meet the cowl. On the model, it's kind of a mess. Easy fix though. 

So as you can see, the fender is lower than the cowl and instead of making a slight "sweep up" to meet the cowl, it's almost like a glob. Lol. So what I did here was I first scribed out the fender to cowl and door to cowl gaps because I knew they'd disappear once the sanding started. Then, I just basically sanded the corner of the cowl down to make this transition less dramatic. Kinda hard to see with these photos but hopefully you get the idea.

Before:

After:

Still probably not perfect but I didn't want to take it much further because I knew by the time I applied primer, paint, and clear, this would be even less noticeable.

[gasser59]

The kit is off a little bit as shown. I dropped your model picture over the top of the actual car photo. Not to bad.

[randyc]

Hey, loved the interior work.  I had a 71 Dart and saw the same difference in the pad and metal, so you;re doing something that is spot-on detail.  I've been trying lately to find these details in my builds because they really make the difference.  

Also, I haven't needed BMF in a long time and keep reading about crappy foil available today.  Wondering if I should just make my own instead.  I wonder if it gets old and goes bad.  you buy or order a sheet and have no idea how old it is.  IDK?  But I'm about out.

Great looking build.  can't wait to see how it progresses.

Randy

[Greg Pugh]

The kit is off a little bit as shown. I dropped your model picture over the top of the actual car photo. Not to bad.

Geez! Seeing that makes me want to throw it in the trash! Lol

[Harry P.]

You have an excellent eye for detail and a very clean building style. Love the engine, love the dash, love the interior... just love it all. Beautiful work.

[Snake45]

You have an excellent eye for detail and a very clean building style. Love the engine, love the dash, love the interior... just love it all. Beautiful work.

What? No gigs about mirrors, alternator brackets, or registration stickers on the license plates?

Who are you and what have you done with our beloved Harry?

[Greg Pugh]

You have an excellent eye for detail and a very clean building style. Love the engine, love the dash, love the interior... just love it all. Beautiful work.

Thank you Harry!!

[426-Hemi]

GAWD thats some AWESOME Work! GREAT engine, nicely done detail on the body...... Can't wait to see 'er under glass!!!!

[Greg Pugh]

GAWD thats some AWESOME Work! GREAT engine, nicely done detail on the body...... Can't wait to see 'er under glass!!!!

Thank you!!

[Greg Pugh]

Well POO!! Friday evening I washed the body in warm soapy water, rinsed it, wet sanded it, rinsed it again, and left it to dry overnight. Saturday morning I shot it in primer and...it crazed. 

And check out this weirdness. Never seen this before...

[Greg Pugh]

It's kinda got me scratching my head. I've used the same primer (Duplicolor 1699 Primer/Sealer) for the last 15+ years and have NEVER had a problem! In fact, I even have used it on this same kit on everything that's been painted up until now with no problems! 

So I broke out the body on the kit that I've been raiding parts from. I masked off half of the deck lid and shot it with the same can of primer, same result. I then masked off the other side of the deck lid and grabbed a brand new can of the same primer, same result. I then masked off half of the roof, and shot it with the color I'm going with (Duplicolor spray can) and it did not seem to have the same effect, not quite as bad anyways. I saw a post on Facebook where somebody had just finished building one of the Moebius Ford pickups and I asked him if he had any problems with primer crazing and he said that he did. So it's seeming to me like there's something up with the plastic in the bodies...? I guess I don't quite understand why everything else I've painted in this same kit didn't seem to have any reaction but the body did. Any ideas? 

I've stripped the primer off the body but of course now I have a lot of clean-up to do. I'm going to try a Tamiya primer on it next. Of course I'll try it on the test body first. I just hope that the Duplicolor Acrylic Lacquer will get along with the Tamiya primer. I've been told it will. If anybody has any ideas, I'm all ears!

[426-Hemi]

Greg,

That sucks! Plastic body, or resin? I can't remember, might be a bad reaction between the resin and the paint..... Plastic, if thats what it was, this is an odd reaction!

[randyc]

Is it the plastics being used now, OR the paint formulation being changed, OR a COMBINATION of the two.  I've noticed and read some posts about paint changing.  I used to hate Rustoleum because it didn't work like Duplicolor, but Duplicolor isn't much better at this point.  The primers anyway.  I used to paint with airbrush or can - not much difference.  But now out of the can, seems like thre are many more issues.  Sorry about your paint.  Hope you can get it worked out.   Is it a wet coat?  Too wet and too hot for the plastic?  The plastics - no telling what the formulation is being made now - make everything cheaper and cheaper and keep increasing prices.  Grrrr.   

Hope you can fix it.

 

[Greg Pugh]

Using the extra test body that I have, I sprayed Tamiya primer on it and was then able to spray the Duplicolor over the top of it with no issues. Not sure if the problem is a newer type of plastic or that Duplicolor's formula has changed (gotten hotter) but I think I'll be switching over to Tamiya for primer from here on out. 

Now to see if this body can be saved...

[426-Hemi]

Sorry to hear this! The change of ingredients of paint in the past couple years has been brutal! Specially for us modelers!!!!

I can remember being able to cut Testors paint with Lacquer, NOW I've been using Mineral Spirits!

[Greg Pugh]

After looking closely at the body, I decided that, while savable, it would take me a heck of a lot of time to get this thing whipped back into shape. It seemed to make more sense to me to just start over with a fresh body. Even with having to redo all of the corrections I did to the first body, it would still be much less work. The good thing is, is that addressing things like the wing windows and whatnot a second time sure went by faster than the first time! I'll spare you the boredom of documenting those corrections again.

A fresh canvas...

Just like every review I've run across, I agree that the hood fits awfully tight to the body. It would be especially problematic once primer, paint, and clear are applied. So I sanded the edges of the hood until I had a nice sized gap all the way around. Something I ran into though that I have not seen anybody mention, is that the hood sits too high at the cowl. I ended up sanding the top of the back of the hood and also some from underneath the hood to get this to sit flush with the cowl. 

Here is the hood while I was sanding. I used masking tape to protect the center ridge from being sanded...

And it's ready for some TAMIYA primer this time! Lol. Wish me luck!!

Edited October 15, 2016 by Greg Pugh

[progplastic]

luck

[Greg Pugh]

Finally! Some forward progress again!

[Jon Haigwood]

It is getting there Greg. Today I will attempt to paint my 64 Belvedere black (my fourth attempt at getting a smooth painted surface) and maybe even my 64 Dodge red (my third attempt). I am expecting better results with the VL airbrush (I just got) over the Harbor fright dual action. Glad I have two sets of bodies to work with. I can be prepping one while the other soaks in the pond. 

Hope you can find time to work on it after doing all the storm cleanup.

[Greg Pugh]

AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH!!!!!! This car is driving me CRAZY!!

I laid down some color today. I shot the hood first to kind of test the waters. Paint went on smooth as silk so I turned my attention to the body. I laid down about 5 mist coats followed by one final heavier coat, all was going well and then...crazing again!! 

Weird part is that it mainly seemed to do it on the front fenders. Maybe the primer wasn't laid down heavy enough up front....?? Anyways, the crazing is light enough that I think I can lightly wet sand it out, maybe lay down another light coat, and it might smooth out. I'm hoping that it'll be good enough to get lost under a couple of clear coats but we'll see. Still, I'm excited to see it in color finally!