Chariots of Fire Posted December 24, 2015 Author Posted December 24, 2015 Hello Arnd! Thank you for your kind words. The tires are 11:00 x 20 actual size and are 41mm diameter by 10mm wide. The inside diameter is 20 mm.That represents a real tire that is 41" high.
Chariots of Fire Posted December 24, 2015 Author Posted December 24, 2015 (edited) Here is a photo of the simple drawing to show the frame and tire layout in plan view. With a drawing like this things can be kept in scale and proportional. The rear axle is now to the correct length. Still to go is the other axle for the tandem rear end. The front axle will have to wait until I get more photos of the actual truck. I also painted up two of the tires to see how they will look. Not bad but they can be better. 3D printing does have its limitations and they are evident here with a rougher sidewall surface than I would like. A little sanding after the first coat of paint is applied will make some difference. Edited December 24, 2015 by Chariots of Fire added info
gatorincebu Posted December 25, 2015 Posted December 25, 2015 What you have there . Is looking really good! Be well Gator
Chariots of Fire Posted January 3, 2016 Author Posted January 3, 2016 Been a while since I posted progress. Shops have been busy with the frame and rear suspension for the M-52. Good thing I have the TM's for this rig. Without them I would be lost! Even found additional info on line which has been a big help. Tomorrow I get to crawl under the real rig to get additional details for the inside of frame suspension parts. Springs are made from 1/64" x 1/8" brass strip stock. Brass tubing makes up the pivot point. Still to be made up are the torque rods that keep both axles in alignment.
Superpeterbilt Posted January 4, 2016 Posted January 4, 2016 That suspension is absolutely amazing. This thing looks killer.
mikemodeler Posted January 8, 2016 Posted January 8, 2016 you do amazing work ;-))my sentiments exactly! I am always amazed at your work Charlie!
Chariots of Fire Posted January 10, 2016 Author Posted January 10, 2016 Got a bit more done on the rear suspension. Torque rods were used to connect the main pivot point with the axles to keep them in alignment. There's a bit more done on the rear of the frame as well but I will post that when I get more done on the front suspension. Just started by soldering on the front spring purchases.
gotnitro? Posted January 10, 2016 Posted January 10, 2016 It just keeps getting better! ! Awesome work
gatorincebu Posted January 11, 2016 Posted January 11, 2016 It just keeps getting better! ! Awesome work X's 2 ...............Yup I agree! Be Well Gator
Chariots of Fire Posted January 12, 2016 Author Posted January 12, 2016 Got the front springs done yesterday, all except for securing the mounting pins. That will be last after the frame is painted. Parts will be painted separately and then put together. The rear suspension is now complete except for the drive shafts.
Canso65 Posted January 12, 2016 Posted January 12, 2016 I don't know what to say other than WOW!I've always wanted to try resin casting, you make it sound easy enough. lolGreat work!Rob
Chariots of Fire Posted January 12, 2016 Author Posted January 12, 2016 Resin casting is not hard. Complex pieces can be a challenge but there are so many parts that can be made with just a single mold to pour the resin in. For example the axles on this truck were done it two separate molds. I glued each half to a piece of plastic and then built a box around each one to hold the RTV. Mold release was painted on the part and on the box sides. RTV was poured in making sure that the RTV covered the entire axle half. You have to plug the ends of the axle halves because you don't want the RTV to get inside. Use a bit of modeling clay for that. The mold will cure in 3-4 hours. Break the mold box apart and remove the axle master. Then mix up two part resin and pour it in the mold Make sure the resin coats the inside of the mold without any visibie air bubbles. Wait for it to cure and pop out the new part! MIcro-Mark has a good assortment of RTV and two part resin materials. Not cheap but you can get a lot of molds and parts that way.
kilrathy10 Posted January 14, 2016 Posted January 14, 2016 This is too cool.....Awesome work, Man....Looking awesome.....
Chariots of Fire Posted January 20, 2016 Author Posted January 20, 2016 Got a bit more done in the last few modeling sessions including the front axle. There is a small amount of warp in the frame which I attribute to my soldering surface not being flat any more. It's enough to make it aggravating but I think with enough weight finally on the frame and all it will settle down ok. With the front axle set in position the ends were made up to allow the front wheels to turn. There is still much to do around the hubs to include the brackets for the tie rod and steering arm. Fortunately I have photos and TM drawings that give me enough information to do a reasonable job of replication. As with the rear hubs, the front ones are held on with a small screw and washer that sit inside. They will eventually be covered with the center hub cover.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now