Decal Setting Solution for use on lacquer???

[crowe-t]

Which setting solution is best on decals that are applied on lacquer, specifically Testors Custom Lacquer System?

Is setting solution necessary?

BTW, I'll be spraying Testors Ultra Gloss Coat over the decals. 

[fseva]

Which setting solution is best on decals that are applied on lacquer, specifically Testors Custom Lacquer System?

Is setting solution necessary?

Not always... setting solutions are helpful when "flat" decals are not conforming well to "curved" or "uneven" surfaces. You can try other things first... such as applying a towel soaked in warm/hot water to the area. Some folks swear that Future, when applied before decals, will help them adhere/conform better, but I've never tried this one myself. Recently though, I found that even after many applications of Micro-Sol, I still had parts of a decal that simply would not conform, and I wound up slitting them so that they could fold over themselves, and that way they conformed, but with an obvious break in the smooth line of the graphic.

[peteski]

Decal solvents or setting solutions are usually needed when the decal is applied over uneven surfaces or over complex curves.   That way instead of wrinkling up or having air bubbles under it, the solution will soften the decal film so it sucks down close to the surface of the model.

[Byron5150]

The common setting solutions micro sol and micro set will be fine, I use mr mark setter and mr mark softer and for tamiya's I use tamiya's mark fit strong. All in which can be used on lacquer and any dried paint.

 

I've heard micro sol and set is mainly better for the american model kits and obviously the mr mark setter and softer and tamiya mark fit, are better for Japanese model kit decals. Whether thats true or not, Im not sure. 

Ive never used micro sol, and mr mark setter and softer work good for me on any model decals. 

Softening solutions you need to be careful with regardless, especially tamiya mark fit strong, because it does just that it softens the decal and eventually if you keep putting it on, it could soften the decal till a point it dissolves.

 

All setting solution does is help the decal stick more it gives it more adhesiveness. All softer does is softens the decal and helps it to stay down and conform to the part either with corners or weird surfaces.

 

Setting solution really isn't ever needed, you could just use water, setting solutions just helps the decal sit better IMO and IMO makes your decals look better, & they help aid in the silvering effect.

 

Regardless with top coat its easier not to ruin the decals, you still would want to start with mist coats. You could also use clear lacquers, but you have more of a chance of ruining the decal. But still always do light coats first that way the lacquer builds up slow or the top coat builds up slow. Urethane clear coats are better then both in my opinion for getting a super glossy shine afterwards, but you still need to build it up slowly and it does not eat the decals.  

 

So the in quick terms, decals usually go on amazingly after a clear coat, and even after the car is polished, if your still having difficulty with the decal laying flat or conforming to the part, use a softening  decal solution.

If it goes on good with water good, then just use that. You can even use a hairdryer with a setting solution or water to slowly shrink and conform the decal to the part, Ex: carbon fiber decals on a car hood. 

 

Edited February 4, 2016 by Byron5150

[gtx6970]

The common setting solutions micro sol and micro set will be fine, I use mr mark setter and mr mark softer and for tamiya's I use tamiya's mark fit strong. All in which can be used on lacquer and any dried paint.

 

I've heard micro sol and set is mainly better for the american model kits and obviously the mr mark setter and softer and tamiya mark fit, are better for Japanese model kit decals. Whether thats true or not, Im not sure.

Ive never used micro sol, and mr mark setter and softer work good for me on any model decals.

Softening solutions you need to be careful with regardless, especially tamiya mark fit strong, because it does just that it softens the decal and eventually if you keep putting it on, it could soften the decal till a point it dissolves.

 

All setting solution does is help the decal stick more it gives it more adhesiveness. All softer does is softens the decal and helps it to stay down and conform to the part either with corners or weird surfaces.

 

Setting solution really isn't ever needed, you could just use water, setting solutions just helps the decal sit better IMO and IMO makes your decals look better, the help aid in the silvering effect.

 

Regardless with top coat its easier not to ruin the decals, you still would want to start with mist coats. You could also use clear lacquers but you have more of a chance of ruining the decal. But still always do light coats first that way the lacquer builds up slow or the top coat builds up slow. Urethane clear coats are better then both in my opinion for getting a super glossy shine afterwards, but you still need to build it up slowly and does not eat the decals. 

 

What he said,

I've used Micro set on just about everything with no ill effects

[fseva]

The common setting solutions micro sol and micro set will be fine, I use mr mark setter and mr mark softer and for tamiya's I use tamiya's mark fit strong. All in which can be used on lacquer and any dried paint.

I've heard micro sol and set is mainly better for the american model kits and obviously the mr mark setter and softer and tamiya mark fit, are better for Japanese model kit decals. Whether thats true or not, Im not sure. 

I picked up some Tamiya Mark Fit Strong, thinking that it would be stronger on the tough decals, but to be perfectly honest, I didn't see it doing anything at all. I was at first worried that it would dissolve the decals, but after using it several times, it isn't any better than Micro-Sol.

BTW, Micro-Set is a "before decaling" application, that's supposed to set up the surface to receive the decals. I don't think it does anything after applying them...

[fseva]

I just thought of an interesting point... last time I checked out Micro-Scale's website, I could not find "Micro-Set" anywhere! It seems as if the company has retired it, and now they're only making Micro-Solv! If you can find Micro-Set at your LHS, it's probably older stock...

[Byron5150]

personally i think micro set is pointless you can just use water, the softer works tho they both do the same thing.. For instance my mr mark setter says this

 

• For decals, Mr.Mark Setter both softens and strengthens adhesiveness.
• Mr.Mark Setter is applied to position the decal over the area.
• Apply the decal.
• You can apply Mr.Mark Softer on the decal when necessary.

That right there basically says the same thing as the mr mark softer except the softer says it helps on rough spots or curved applications. So my guess is they both soften the decal, and as with the tamiya, mark fit & mark fit stronger, there just tamiya's brand of setter and softer. However I bet it would ruin the decal (Mark Fit Strong) if used heavily, but I think it would have to be a lot. And that stuff is made specifically for tamiya's decals since they are a tad bit thicker then american kits but not by much, so you probably won't notice much of a difference.

Edited February 5, 2016 by Byron5150

[fseva]

personally i think micro set is pointless you can just use water, the softer works tho they both do the same thing.. For instance my mr mark setter says this

• For decals, Mr.Mark Setter both softens and strengthens adhesiveness.
• Mr.Mark Setter is applied to position the decal over the area.
• Apply the decal.
• You can apply Mr.Mark Softer on the decal when necessary.

That right there basically says the same thing as the mr mark softer except the softer says it helps on rough spots or curved applications. So my guess is they both soften the decal, and as with the tamiya, mark fit & mark fit stronger, there just tamiya's brand of setter and softer. However I bet it would ruin the decal (Mark Fit Strong) if used heavily, but I think it would have to be a lot. And that stuff is made specifically for tamiya's decals since they are a tad bit thicker then american kits but not by much, so you probably won't notice much of a difference.

So, would you say that if you have Micro-Solv, it will do the same job as the solutions by Mr. and Tamiya?

[crowe-t]

Which decal setting solution/solvent is safest to use on lacquer?

I have Walthers Solvaset, MicroScale Micro Sol and MicroScale Micro Set.

[Mike_G]

On a somewhat related note, if you use an acetic acid-based product like Micro-set, be sure to let the acidic residue fully dissipate (which can take several days) before clearcoating over the decals or you run the risk of pinholes forming.

 

[crowe-t]

On a somewhat related note, if you use an acetic acid-based product like Micro-set, be sure to let the acidic residue fully dissipate (which can take several days) before clearcoating over the decals or you run the risk of pinholes forming.

 

I actually used the Micro Sol so I'll let it sit for at least a week before I clear coat.

Edited February 6, 2016 by crowe-t

[Byron5150]

I just gave you a full length book on whats safe on lacquer bro lol

 

There all safe, and obviously before clear coating you'd want to be sure that body is clean and nothing is on it that would effect the clear coat. 

[Byron5150]

So, would you say that if you have Micro-Solv, it will do the same job as the solutions by Mr. and Tamiya?

yes for the most part, i think the only reason mr. and tamiya are around is because the japenese market made there own.

 

I use tamiya and mr mark stuff personally, but I'm sure there all good.

Have a whole bottle of mr mark stuff so don't need to waste money to try micro sol but from watching vids and tutorials it works great. 

I have great success with mr mark set and softer so thats what i prefer using, once you find something that works good for you stick to it