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Posted

I am in the middle of doing all the body work on a Revell Cobra 427. I am using the Hobby Designs Photo Etch set, but it is designed for the Fujimi kit, and EVERYTHING has to be modified to accomodate. In hindsight, I might have been better off just trying to open the plastic vents. However, I am here now. 

My question is, would it be weird to leave the cooling fins bare metal? I want them to look nice and crisp, and in my previous experience, painting small PE pieces black hasn't looked great, and they are not reacting to blackening solution. The other option would be to do carbon fiber decals, but I don't want a modern look. 

I am not going for any particular car, just clean detail. I will post a WIP when I have something worthy of showing. Right now it's just a bunch of fine tuning on the body to get everything to fit. 

Posted

To the best of my knowledge all Cobras (289s and 427s) had body color louvers.  But it's your build - build it your way.

Posted

it will look  good no matter what color you choice.   for me  all my  cobra kits will be body color.   except  for the one i built about 10 years ago

 

Posted

I agree that all factory Cobra's had body colored vents but being it is a model and not a replica of a particular car I think what ever you do is fine. Looking forward to some pics.

 

Posted

I would prefer body color, but i have had trouble with paint laying down nicely on metal parts before. Also, I have tried Tamiya metal primer, it all ends up thick, I want these to stay nice and crisp. 

 

Any suggestions on painting PE pieces? 

Posted

I would prefer body color, but i have had trouble with paint laying down nicely on metal parts before. Also, I have tried Tamiya metal primer, it all ends up thick, I want these to stay nice and crisp. 

 

Any suggestions on painting PE pieces? 

SEM self-etching primer ought to do you. It's pretty hot and will really craze some plastics, has a thin film, adheres well, actually somewhat transparent if you only shoot one or 2 coats. 

Comes in a kinda chromate-looking green, black and gray. It's hotter than the other hardware store or parts-store self-etchers.   sem-self-etch-primer-aerosol-can-2.gif

 

Posted

SEM self-etching primer ought to do you. It's pretty hot and will really craze some plastics, has a thin film, adheres well, actually somewhat transparent if you only shoot one or 2 coats. 

Comes in a kinda chromate-looking green, black and gray. It's hotter than the other hardware store or parts-store self-etchers.   sem-self-etch-primer-aerosol-can-2.gif

 

Thanks, I'll check it out. 

Posted (edited)

Body color was how they were done in the '60's. Today, Shelby owners and some replica owners do what their idea of cool is.

Don't prime your PE. Clean it with lacquer thinner then blow your black on in very thin mist coats. Just to get even coverage. You won't see peel on them on a 1/25 model.

Edited by Cato
Posted (edited)

Yea that is not an original badge.  My reference tells me all 289s had the "Powered By Ford" badge

S2MS-16228-A-2.jpg

and all 427s had this badge.

16099H_std.jpg

I have about a dozen Cobra books and to the best of my knowledge all original Cobras came with the fender vent body color.  However there are a lot of cars out there with bare aluminum fender vents.

Edited by afx
Posted (edited)

Hmmmm...ya s'pose some folks don't realize that most of the cobras out there are kit-car repops and that they rarely get built to Shelby factory specs? Just cuz a photo comes up as a "427 Cobra" doesn't mean it's a real 427 Cobra.

fwpubwBWEKGrHqEH-D8EuDDnkEgwBLkoowdw_4-175b2efc5904c2938ea249b47aeb2950e.jpg

793cf5788f42ac8bac25e12ee0db5041.jpg 

                                                                                                                            eae2502434b4c43e0f5abd77f56c2c61.jpg

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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