Chariots of Fire Posted December 20, 2016 Author Posted December 20, 2016 The frame is now basically complete with springs and axles attached. There will be more detailing as we go along but with that work out of the way I could concentrate on setting the body at the right height. Along the way it was necessary to do some checking of the wheel base and mark the frame accordingly for the axle locations. Mating them up to the wheel well openings take a bit of tweaking. There is nothing worse than having the tires look like they don't belong where they are. In the photo above I have attached the rear hubs with small screws. A piece of plastic rod was superglued inside the brass tubing and then drilled out for the screw. The screw head is just large enough to keep the hub from slipping off. When all is done the screw will be covered with the hub end. The same will be done for the front wheels. The brass axles will be cut off, the plastic rod inserted and drilled for screws. The fit is smooth with no wobbles and the tires and wheels are vertical. The rig is now up on all fours (or sixes if you prefer) and is at the correct height. Measurements were taken of the height of the frame and height of the top of the running boards relative to ground level so that each will be sitting properly. If the front wheels look a bit off it is because they are pivoted on the axle hubs.
Chuck Most Posted December 20, 2016 Posted December 20, 2016 The headlight bezels bear an uncanny resemblance to '40 Willys units- particularly the ones in the early 2000's Revell kits. Perhaps those would work, and if so, they'd not be hard to adapt at all. But if you do figure out a way to conjure some up yourself (and I'm certain you can) then by all means- let us see! The hard part will be the headlight bezels. Unlike other light bezels these are teardrop shape so I haven't figured out quite yet how they will be made.
Chariots of Fire Posted December 20, 2016 Author Posted December 20, 2016 Thanks for the heads up! I'll check them out and see if they are adaptable.
DRIPTROIT 71 Posted December 21, 2016 Posted December 21, 2016 WOW!!!! I'm at a lost for words. Just WOW!!
kilrathy10 Posted December 23, 2016 Posted December 23, 2016 Dude !!!! You got some SICK skills !!! This is awesome.....This is AWESOME !!!!!
Chariots of Fire Posted December 29, 2016 Author Posted December 29, 2016 An update on progress for the Maxim. Scratch building a Hercules RXLDH 6 cylinder engine was a challenge but a fun project nevertheless. Lots of plastic stock, a bit of Renshape, hex rod for nuts and bolts and a few pieces from the parts box as well as aluminum turnings for the fan belt pulleys. Still to go are the plugs (2per cylinder) and the wiring from the dual distributors. Then there is a ton of tubing and wiring to complete it. It took some tweaking here and there to get it into the engine compartment but it is there and I can still close the hood!
Chariots of Fire Posted December 30, 2016 Author Posted December 30, 2016 (edited) Put on some primer to check out spots that might need some cleanup. Makes it a lot easier to see the details. Edited December 30, 2016 by Chariots of Fire
jacobus Posted December 30, 2016 Posted December 30, 2016 thats a great work , al the thing,s you have makegreat , like the gracieus fenders , love that old stylefollow this onejacobus
Chariots of Fire Posted December 31, 2016 Author Posted December 31, 2016 Here's a look at the finished engine. Color is Krylon satin black. The heat exchanger and transformer are medium blue. Distributor caps are rust red. Wiring is from Michaels craft store. For some reason there are limits on posting my photos so I will have to do them in individual postings. They have been reduced for posting and are no different than before but with the new limits they are too big.
Chariots of Fire Posted January 1, 2017 Author Posted January 1, 2017 (edited) Going to try and post a couple of more photos, this time from Photobucket. Maybe it will take them. I was just copying from my files before so that might be the trouble. Let's see! Ok, it worked! Here is the front of the Maxim with a piece of Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland photoetch mesh for the grill. The marks are on a piece of clear tape that is holding the grill in position. When finished there will be a chrome trim around the top and sides and several vertical trim pieces on the mesh itself. Lots of fitting to be done here! Edited January 1, 2017 by Chariots of Fire
Chariots of Fire Posted January 2, 2017 Author Posted January 2, 2017 We'll try a few more photos from Photobucket. The grill is now finished for placement and looks pretty good. With the engine now set for location and the Hale pump made up I concentrated on the drive shafts. I used Shapeways universal joints and brass tubing.
Casey Posted January 3, 2017 Posted January 3, 2017 For some reason there are limits on posting my photos so I will have to do them in individual postings. They have been reduced for posting and are no different than before but with the new limits they are too big. I see now you're uploading each image via the forum's attachment method, so yes, eventually you will run out of space. Looks like you got it working again, though. I don't envy the work you put into the grille, but it was time well spent.
Chariots of Fire Posted January 3, 2017 Author Posted January 3, 2017 Yes, I solved the uploading of pix problem. Doing it through Photobucket url. Definitely the grill was a "grilling" task! There is still a little work to be done. The vertical trim pieces will be done in aluminum stock so that I can polish them out. So much nicer than trying to BMF the little pieces. The top piece I will put BMF on but it will be done prior to final painting. That way I can gently rub the paint off the BMF underneath and have a nice neat line.
Chariots of Fire Posted January 6, 2017 Author Posted January 6, 2017 (edited) With the frame done and the pump in place it finally came time to paint the frame and install the engine. A bit of minor tweaking was essential to get the body to sit on the frame with everything permanently set. Two blades of the fan had to be sanded down ever so slightly so that it fits better next to the radiator. The hood needed a bit more adjustment as well including a touch of solder on one edge to square it up. Nice to have the windshield open now. Begins to look more like a truck than just a blob of plastic! It is nearly impossible to get a nice smooth surface to the inside of the cab roof so rather than try some two part resin was mixed up and poured in just enough to cover the joints. Now it is nice and clean and extra strong as well. Edited January 6, 2017 by Chariots of Fire
towman1271 Posted January 6, 2017 Posted January 6, 2017 So Impressive.. Cant wait to see it done.. Feel like a kid again waiting for Christmas morning
Chariots of Fire Posted January 7, 2017 Author Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) Progress continues with the small side windows being cut out. Running boards are taped temporarily in place and some detail features on the front fenders where they mate up with the grill. Next will be to open the doors. Then the floorboards can be set in place. Doing that will really stiffen up the inside. Edited January 7, 2017 by Chariots of Fire
kilrathy10 Posted January 7, 2017 Posted January 7, 2017 Good Gravy, Man......What a project.....Excellent work....Everything is so meticulously executed.......A masterpiece in the making.....
Mopar - D Posted January 7, 2017 Posted January 7, 2017 Charles Excellent Master building you have going on here with your fire truck ?! I really enjoyed going through all your posts on how you are able to recreate this truck in scale. Looking forward to seeing your next update.
Chariots of Fire Posted January 7, 2017 Author Posted January 7, 2017 Thanks, Dan. Opening up the doors now and will begin the work on the cab interior.
Chariots of Fire Posted January 9, 2017 Author Posted January 9, 2017 Things are continuing to move along with some additional progress on the cab and hood. Openings for the doors are done and reinforced on the inside. The spaces under the floor are for tools on the left and for batteries on the right. Hood sides were opened up as well and photoetch mesh was soldered to the inside.
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