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Posted

Hello everyone! I'm new to MCM, but not new to modeling hobby. Just a little rusty since I've gotten back into building after 17 years. But I'm definitely enjoying it again :).

I have the 1/25 scale Revell '69 Camaro on the bench right now and I would like to do the body color in Daytona Yellow. But I'm having an issue with finding the correct yellow or something as close as possible to Daytona Yellow. Now I have found the Testors Daytona Yellow on several web sites, but I'm not into spending 30 to 40$ Canadian shipped for 3oz of paint! Is there any other alternative paint that I can use such as PlastiKote, Rust-Oleum, Dupli-Color, Krylon, etc? Also my local hobby shop here does carry Testors, Humbrol, Vallejo and Tamiya colors if this helps any.

I would really appreciate if someone could please help me. Thanks in advance gentlemen...

Posted

I did a '69 Z in Daytona Yellow years ago and I used Model Master Chrome Yellow (airbrushed) and never gave it a second thought. Turns out that it's actually a very acceptable match for Daytona Yellow.

If looking for a suitable substitute, you just don't want a yellow that's too light, too orange, or too "lemony," or with ANY green at all in it. Just a nice bright yellow yellow!

Posted

Dupli-Color makes a chrome yellow in their Perfect Match line..... and It's not metallic, so it would be ideal for a factory paint job on a late '60s muscle car. 

One word of warning tho, their nonmetallic paints tend to spatter from the nozzle if you don't keep it wiped clean. Their metallics and pearls don't...... :)

Posted

Dupli-Color makes a chrome yellow in their Perfect Match line..... and It's not metallic, so it would be ideal for a factory paint job on a late '60s muscle car. 

One word of warning tho, their nonmetallic paints tend to spatter from the nozzle if you don't keep it wiped clean. Their metallics and pearls don't...... :)

Yes, I did see that Dupli-Color yellow and it is a very close match to the original GM color and it's readily available here. No waiting on shipping :)

I would decant it first and be applying it with an airbrush, so it may be fine in light coats. The only thing that concerns me is that automotive lacquers are a little hotter then regular model lacquers on plastic.

 

 

Posted

Yes, I did see that Dupli-Color yellow and it is a very close match to the original GM color and it's readily available here. No waiting on shipping :)

I would decant it first and be applying it with an airbrush, so it may be fine in light coats. The only thing that concerns me is that automotive lacquers are a little hotter then regular model lacquers on plastic.

 

 

i use automotive lacquers on my kits, and they are a bit hot, but, if you use an automotive style primer,[spray can type from the auto store] and make sure your body work is smooth, smooth, smooth, you should be ok.

Posted

i use automotive lacquers on my kits, and they are a bit hot, but, if you use an automotive style primer,[spray can type from the auto store] and make sure your body work is smooth, smooth, smooth, you should be ok.

Automotive lacquers would be the way to go. At least they are the correct colors. I've already have Tamiya white primer for the body, so would that be a good

enough or the Dupli-Color lacquer?

 

Posted (edited)

You may be better off with the Tamiya white primer than using DupliColor primer, as some guys have had problems with it crazing the recent plastics...... Instead of D-Cs lacquer primer, I use their engine enamel primer..........

You might want to test the paint over the Tamiya primer on a plastic spoon, just to be on the safe side.......  ;)

Edited by JollySipper
Posted

i use automotive lacquers on my kits, and they are a bit hot, but, if you use an automotive style primer,[spray can type from the auto store] and make sure your body work is smooth, smooth, smooth, you should be ok.

What do you mean when you refer to lacquer as being hot?

Posted

What do you mean when you refer to lacquer as being hot?

It will melt--craze, wrinkle, dissolve, or otherwise attack--typical kit styrene plastic. This is NOT a good thing.

Posted

It will melt--craze, wrinkle, dissolve, or otherwise attack--typical kit styrene plastic. This is NOT a good thing.

Of course, Snake is speaking in hyperbole....... :lol:

Your plastic won't spontaneously go up in flames, but if your primer is too "hot" for the plastic, it will make it rough and kinda hard to sand back smooth. I've been lucky that I haven't had crazing happen but a few times. Like I said earlier tho, I use engine enamel primer from DupliColor, it's tough enough to stand up to the lacquer paints and won't craze plastics......

Posted

i found the spray bomb type automotive primer to work the best [for me], but also keep in mind, i have found that even with that primer, if you use the primer to fill scratches/sand marks, the hot lacquer will noticeably react in those areas, so the body work has to really be done smooth. as mentioned, do some spoon tests and see how it goes. took me a few tries to find the combo that worked for me.

Posted

Thanks for the heads up guys. I haven't run into the problem on jobs I've done with spray cans but I'm about to do my first with an airbrush. I thought the body was ok but now I'm going to go over it carefully and make sure my work looks good and smooth.

Sorry to hijack the thread for a bit. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.

Posted

Testor makes a Daytona Yellow in their Custom Lacquer line. The spray can is #28103. They probably also make it in a bottle version so you could airbrush that if you choose.

Posted

I've have a good friend of mine that's heading to Vancouver this morning. He's going to see if he can find me either the Model Master Daytona Yellow lacquer spray or the Chrome Yellow enamel bottle. If that fails, I'm going to place an order with Elm City Hobbies this week for the Daytona lacquer spray. I think that may be the best way to go color wise.

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