bbowser Posted February 17, 2017 Posted February 17, 2017 I'm working on a '14 Model T fire car and none of the kit parts are plated (the new ICM kit). I'm looking for opinions on the best way to replicate the shiny brass parts such as the radiator shell and headlights. Thanks in advance!
Snake45 Posted February 17, 2017 Posted February 17, 2017 Rub N Buff comes in Gold, and I think perhaps Brass as well. The stuff can work pretty well on small parts, once you get the hang of using it.
Chillyb1 Posted February 17, 2017 Posted February 17, 2017 I'd use Model Master Metalizer brass with their sealer and/or clear on top.
Art Anderson Posted February 17, 2017 Posted February 17, 2017 I'm working on a '14 Model T fire car and none of the kit parts are plated (the new ICM kit). I'm looking for opinions on the best way to replicate the shiny brass parts such as the radiator shell and headlights. Thanks in advance!You can also use Bare Metal Foil, then paint over it with Tamiya's Clear Yellow--show field bright and shiny!Art
Art Anderson Posted February 17, 2017 Posted February 17, 2017 You can also use Bare Metal Foil, then paint over it with Tamiya's Clear Yellow--show field bright and shiny!ArtBruce, if you do a Google Image Search for 1914 Model T Ford (I just did!), you will notice that at some point in 1913, the headlights went from all brass construction to a black painted "body", with the rim around the lens and that blocky-looking "chimney" on top being polished brass--that would be so very easy to do in BMF, then painted with Tamiya clear yellow. I did some foil work on my ICM '13 T and then painted that with Clear Yellow--looks like polished brass to me!Art
StevenGuthmiller Posted February 17, 2017 Posted February 17, 2017 Alclad makes a "Polished Brass" as well as a "Pale Gold". I've used the pale gold many times for items like carbs or '60s Mopar air cleaners, but I've never worried much about a super shiny base coat. This is the Alclad PolIshed Brass. Steve Am I going to wind up in prison for "copying without permission"? Steve
bbowser Posted February 17, 2017 Author Posted February 17, 2017 This is why I love this site! Some great ideas to try, thanks!
ScottH454 Posted February 17, 2017 Posted February 17, 2017 I just had a thought, what about adding a yellow to the new molotow chrome pen ink. That might make some shiny brass. I don't have there yellow but do have some of thier colored pens I will try mixing.
bbowser Posted February 18, 2017 Author Posted February 18, 2017 Bruce, if you do a Google Image Search for 1914 Model T Ford (I just did!), you will notice that at some point in 1913, the headlights went from all brass construction to a black painted "body", with the rim around the lens and that blocky-looking "chimney" on top being polished brass--that would be so very easy to do in BMF, then painted with Tamiya clear yellow. I did some foil work on my ICM '13 T and then painted that with Clear Yellow--looks like polished brass to me!Art Thanks Art! On a related question, when did they go from white to black rubber tires? I'm thinking of coloring the white tires in the kit, mostly because I think it will look better with black.
Ace-Garageguy Posted February 18, 2017 Posted February 18, 2017 (edited) if you pull up some Of Harry's brass-era builds, and his old fire engine, you'll see his method for doing brass. Edited February 18, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy
Art Anderson Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 Thanks Art! On a related question, when did they go from white to black rubber tires? I'm thinking of coloring the white tires in the kit, mostly because I think it will look better with black.For starters, as I've pointed out numerous times--those early tires were never truly white, but rather a "buff" color when new. In late 1913-early 1914, several rubber companies began adding carbon black powder to their raw latex rubber before vulcanizing, finding that doing this greatly extended tire life, and made a stronger tire in the bargain.Art
Art Anderson Posted February 20, 2017 Posted February 20, 2017 For starters, as I've pointed out numerous times--those early tires were never truly white, but rather a "buff" color when new. In late 1913-early 1914, several rubber companies began adding carbon black powder to their raw latex rubber before vulcanizing, finding that doing this greatly extended tire life, and made a stronger tire in the bargain.ArtBear in mind though: Those pre-WW-II natural rubber tires were never pure black in color, but rather a VERY dark charcoal gray! (carbon black powder added to cream-colored natural rubber makes dark grey, not black).Art
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