Miatatom Posted March 1, 2017 Posted March 1, 2017 I asked here on the forum about using an electric toothbrush with sandpaper attached so time ago. It didn't get much of a reception. But of course, that doesn't stop me. I recently bought an el cheapo at WM for about $10 and got some extra heads. I used a scalpel to cut the bristles off the heads. It was impossible to get them cut close enough to use the 2 sided tape by itself so I cut some small pieces out of .075 sheet stock and super glued them to the heads. You can use any thickness as long as it's flat. If you notice, I left one head with short bristles. It works great for removing paint around emblems and trim. I spray a lot of lacquer and I dip the head into 91% iso and scrub away. Does a decent job without getting too physical with all the detail on the car. I used a dremel to trim the excess sheet material off the head. To attach the sandpaper, I use double sided tape. It's about 1/16 or 1/8 inch thick and made of foam. I'm working on some ejector pin marks in the hood and roof of this BRE 510. It made quick work of the putty using 360. You don't need to use much pressure, just let the sandpaper do it's work. I put a couple of drops of water on the spot I'm working on to prevent the paper from getting loaded up. It doesn't work in every situation but it's another tool to make life easier.
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 2, 2017 Posted March 2, 2017 Pretty slick trick. Definitely worth looking into. THANKS !
BigTallDad Posted March 2, 2017 Posted March 2, 2017 Rather than cut the bristles (and not get them short enough), I use needle-nose pliers and pull out one group at a time.I also made an extension (about 1 1/2") and glued it to a spare head. This allows me to get those ejector pin marks inside the top of the front fenders.Consider using hole punches (cheap at Harbor Freight) for the styrene attached to the head as well as the sanding disks you'll be using; I use several sizes, depending on what I'm working on. The corners on square styrene can dig into the model.I'm not being critical, just making some suggestions. I was going to post a similar thread, but you beat me to it! GMTA
Miatatom Posted March 2, 2017 Author Posted March 2, 2017 Rather than cut the bristles (and not get them short enough), I use needle-nose pliers and pull out one group at a time.I also made an extension (about 1 1/2") and glued it to a spare head. This allows me to get those ejector pin marks inside the top of the front fenders.Consider using hole punches (cheap at Harbor Freight) for the styrene attached to the head as well as the sanding disks you'll be using; I use several sizes, depending on what I'm working on. The corners on square styrene can dig into the model.I'm not being critical, just making some suggestions. I was going to post a similar thread, but you beat me to it! GMTABTD, how do you pull the bristles out and not mess up the mechanism inside that makes it work? The extension sounds like a great idea. I could just reach the corners in the top of the 510 and thought at that time that some sort of extension would be useful. Can you take some pics and give a brief description of the extension? I'd thought about the hole punches but wanted to do one trial assembly and see how it worked. I'll probably get them. Your reasoning sounds valid. I did notice some areas that may have been caused by the irregular shape. What's the biggest size you use? I think HF has a set for about $10 that goes up to 1/2" which is just a little smaller than the toothbrush head (~0.56").
1930fordpickup Posted March 2, 2017 Posted March 2, 2017 Tom I made one of these about 5 years ago and use it here and there. The X thought I was nuts but I pointed to all the nail stuff she had, and was told keep my hands off. LOL I glued a piece of rubber to mine, but nothing is wrong with your idea. The extension is glued on just as the sheet plastic you glued on. Like a socket on a rachet. Just think deep well.
BigTallDad Posted March 3, 2017 Posted March 3, 2017 (edited) Tom, when I used the term "pull" I erred. Most of the heads that I've seen use multi-colored bristles, and there are perhaps a dozen bristles in a group; multiple groups (of different colors) make up the head. Take the finest set of needle-nose pliers (I actually use a hemostat), grip a single set (color-wise) of bristles, then roll the pliers (using the base of the head as a pivot) to extract the bristles. That way you're using the base for leverage and won't rip off the sub-assembly. I'd strongly suggest you do this process over a waste basket...stray bristles, ya know.As Andy said, the extension is just glued on. Take a short piece of styrene (such as a Bic pen sleeve, styrene rod, part of a thick sprue, a piece from a plastic clothes hanger), sand both ends even/flat. glue one end to the toothbrush head, and whatever you want on the other end.Another approach that works well...a golf tee is generally straight and well lathed. Flatten the ball area of the tee and glue it to the toothbrush head after cutting off the point of the tee. Glue whatever you want to the cut-off area where the point was. ALSO if you flatten the top of another tee, you can attach sandpaper discs (ala the hole punches from Harbor Freight) to the top, then put the tip in a variable speed drill, and get really deep with your sanding.As another note...those cute clear plastic push pins you see on bulletin boards? Heat the metal until you can pull the pin-part out. Flatten both ends of the plastic that remains and glue the wider end to another toothbrush head. You now have a small end that will accept larger diameter discs of plastic/sandpaper.The options are limitless...I have three "handles" and about a dozen heads, so I rarely hand-sand parts.ON A FINAL NOTE! If you make a similar (scaled back) set up that allows your significant other to sand her nails at ease..... Edited March 3, 2017 by BigTallDad
Miatatom Posted March 3, 2017 Author Posted March 3, 2017 Thanks to BTD and 1930fordpickup, I get it now. I was thinking the extension was for the length of the body of the head and not attached directly to the tip of the head. I was able to get the head through the front and rear windows of the 510 but it was close. I'll be getting some extra ones and making up some extensions so that isn't an issue. I'll have to see if the better half is interested in nail accessories too.
Brett Barrow Posted March 14, 2017 Posted March 14, 2017 I've used one of these for years. Mine has a pencil eraser for the "extension" and I use a standard paper hole punch to punch out the sandpaper and mounting tape. I use it all the time.
Miatatom Posted April 16, 2017 Author Posted April 16, 2017 As suggested, I bought a set of punches at Horror Fright and they do make it easy to cut out tape or thin plastic.
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