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Posted

 

 

Tamiya's paint contains a lot of propellant... So if you do decant, you won't end up with as much paint as you'd think. But I think Tamiya should come out with their own bottled lacquer paints!

 

What do you guys think?

 

Cheers,

Posted

I've decanted rattle cans using other methods, and in all of those (including this post) I've run into the annoyance of the straw getting extremely cold, to the point where my finger got numb.

Posted

I almost never decant a whole can. I try to decant just what I am going to use, as in my experience the can is a better storage solution that a bottle, which tends to dry out in my experience. 

Posted

I've decanted rattle cans using other methods, and in all of those (including this post) I've run into the annoyance of the straw getting extremely cold, to the point where my finger got numb.

That is because the propellent goes from high pressure state (inside the can) to low pressure (ambient) when it sprays out of the nozzle.  Simple laws of physics (and that is how a Freon-based air conditioning works too).  If you decant in a humid environment you also risk water getting into the decanted paint. When the container you are decanting the paint into cools down, water from the ambient air can start condensing on the inside walls, and if enough condenses it can start dripping down into the paint. Not good.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I almost never decant a whole can. I try to decant just what I am going to use, as in my experience the can is a better storage solution that a bottle, which tends to dry out in my experience. 

Exactly how I do it!   In addition, I've never bothered with straws, or anything other than just the standard spray nozzle on the spray can--I've simply learned, over the past 50 years or so, to regulate the flow of paint from the spray nozzle as it can be varied by simply not pressing it all the way down.  To further moderate decanting directly into a paint jar (airbrush color jar in my case),I spray the paint against the side (inside!) of the jar, which allows the decanted paint to simply flow down the inside of the jar, without the tendency to "blow back" up and out of the jar, into my face.

As I almost always add at least 10% more lacquer thinner to paint that's going to be airbrushed, seldom do I ever need more than 1/4 of the airbrush jar's 3/4 oz. capacity, as for me, when painting, less is better than more (why obscure all the fine surface details I paid good money to get in a model car kit?

Art

Posted

While I have not tried it yet one our club members uses a saddle valve from the plumbing section.  He holds in place with two clamps and turns the valve to start to release the pressure.  Once done he can remove the top with a can opener.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Over the years I accumulated a collection of nozzles and tubes from various spray cans. I also adapted some nozzles by pulling out or drilling the orifice, then installing a tube which fits snugly.

DecantingNozzles.jpg.441c545943d884b5c215b21412b939ce.jpg

Posted

Ihave leaened to spray right into the jar. Hold jar at angle, hold button part way down. I even spray into the cups on my gravity airbrushes. BTW Tamiya is coming out with bottled lacqers soon.

Posted
5 hours ago, peteski said:

Over the years I accumulated a collection of nozzles and tubes from various spray cans. I also adapted some nozzles by pulling out or drilling the orifice, then installing a tube which fits snugly.

DecantingNozzles.jpg.441c545943d884b5c215b21412b939ce.jpg

Yep! Perfect..... ??

Posted

I don't have a picture of it, but I use a small funnel with high sides. I spray into the funnel tipped at an angle until i have what i want. Wipe down the funnel and i put in the dehydrator till its warm, then ready to spray.

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