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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, absmiami said:

Hey. Wait a minute. Wasn’t I supposed to be building a Cooper in this thread ? ? ? 

I think so Andrew...... LOL

By the way... It is the 4/CLT/48 (thanks for the correction) annnnd...I do have lots of evergreen and plastic sheet. Getting photos of the chassis and engine is what I really need.

Edited by Gary Davis
Posted
2 minutes ago, absmiami said:

2 questions then ...

what’s the Indy Journal and do you have Gary’s 8CM ?

I had a very nice visit w Gary in Toronto when I bought some kits maybe - what  - 6 or 7 years ago  - 

ive done some exploratory work on one of the 8CM kits - stretching it to 24th scale - which will make it easier to scratch build the str 8 engine.  

 

Posted

Actually it's a hard bound book of the History of Indy from 1911-1994. It contains all the info on all the cars that ran in the race for each of those years. It's a GREAT book to have if one likes the Indy 500. Gary Doucette turned me on to it about 4-5 yrs ago.

I don't think I have an 8CM kit... What yr are they??

 

Uuugh...aren't you suppose to be building a Cooper??? LOL

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Yup. The Cooper is almost old enough to start nursery school. It occurs to me that maybe I should finish it ... 

merry new year. Raise you hand if you thought we would still be squirreled away in our workshops after nine months ...
TMF sells some coated copper wire That is useful for brake lines. Very soft / bendable - which is helpful in this scale ...

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Posted

The right hand cylinder has a splitter made from brass tube  the brake lines go left and right to the front brakes. The shielded brake line on the left cylinder travels back to the rear brake ...  by the way. Not sure but I may have reversed this ...

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Posted

3 pedals made of nickel bar

and brass tube - brake in the center. - clutch to the left  and gas to the Right .  Have a good look. These will disappear under the gas tank in due time ...

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Posted

The seat has languished on the workbench for some months ...  finished the seat cushions and painted black with some textured 

paint -  might flatten the finish a little -

not sure ...  ...

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Posted

If you travel back in time to about April - 2? Page back...  you’ll see photos of the Merit kit steering wheel - which isn’t too accurate - I’ve stolen a steering wheel from Merit’s Lotus 11 kit - cleaned up and thinned the center spokes  -  and re-made the steering wheel with heated - formed - nickel silver.

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Posted (edited)

This is really looking good Andrew. What and where can one get the nickle silver wire that you're using. Is it easy to use. Sure looks good...

Edited by Gary Davis
Posted

Amazon. Cheap and easy - do a search for nickel silver rod assorted widths. My set has about 30 lengths of nickel silver ranging from about .020 to about .080 ??  Post me back if you don’t see it ...

Posted
6 minutes ago, absmiami said:

Ease of use - get some and post me ...  if you were a blacksmith in a former life then it’s intuitive ...

LOL...well...not a blacksmith...but I can pound on things pretty well.... Thanks for the info.

Posted

There is a fluid overflow container perched against the frame in the engine bay. I’ve glued it in here because its time (past time) to do the engine install and I won’t be able to mess with the container once this is done...

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Posted

Now the engine - the gear case is attached to the engine braces and the crankcase oil lines are added before the installation - along with the crankcase/gear case chain drive 

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Posted

In it goes - clipped to the frame members by the notches in the braces.   Does the engine cover fit properly over the cyl head - of course not!  Why ?  Because :         A:  I think the engine should sit about a scale inch farther back in the frame - but I didn’t have enough technical info to help me sight the engine precisely.  
B:  Also the engine is installed at a
 Slight tilt back and my engine does not tilt quite enough ...

but that’s okay - I’ll just shave some material on the engine cover and I’ll be able to open the cover without interference from the leading edge of the cyl head ...

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Posted

By the way. I’ve not yet installed the carburetor assembly. This sticks out from the back of the cyl head. Which is why there is a large opening in the engine cover behind the cyl head.  

Posted

Before finishing the steering wheel I’ve installed the tach wires and glued the tach into its housing. The tach line runs back to the cyl head - the electrical wires - well I don’t really know where they go - so I’ll just bury them under the seat. -  don’t tell anyone ...

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